ABS Wiring loom

redbull_a2

A2OC Donor
I have booked my car in for the replacement ABS wiring loom to stop the ABS light and brake pad warning light.
I had a phone call from the garage saying that Audi said the part was just plug in , the garage phoned me today to say the part they received needs to be soldered on rather than plug in. Can anyone tell me if audi do the plug in part or is it a soldering job ?

Here is the fault code :

00283 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Left (G47)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit

The difference in price from plug in to soldering is £80

£104 for part & labour - plug in ( original quote )
£180 for part & labour - solder ( New Quote )
 
If you're talking about replacing the loom which pops through the front-left wheel arch, then it's definitely a solder-job.
Make sure they do a really good job of sealing the join against water ingress.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Thanks , just wanted to make sure i was not getting conned .

Would do it myself to save cash , but no idea where to start and no tools ,

If you're talking about replacing the loom which pops through the front-left wheel arch, then it's definitely a solder-job.
Make sure they do a really good job of sealing the join against water ingress.

Cheers,

Tom
 
I had this problem on both sides of my car. I took it to a local independent VW man and he fixed both sides for £180. He cut out all the bad wires from the looms and crimped new wire into it. He then heat shrink wrapped the loom where it rubs on the hole through from the engine bay. It's a lovely job and probably more sound than putting the a new loom in there so that it can just wear and rot like the original. Just my five eggs..........
 
Just resurrecting an old thread as I think my 1.4 Sport has this problem - so you have to have the wires soldered and cant just buy a replacement cable?
Thank you ?
 
The replacement loom runs all the way to the ECU Teresa and is a pain to route. They are around £50 to buy new and still available from Audi parts dept. What I intend to do is splice the wires under the nearside wheel arch and blend/solder the new loom in. Alternatively the cheaper option is just simply to tie up the existing wires and wrap in insulating tape.
 
The replacement loom runs all the way to the ECU Teresa and is a pain to route. They are around £50 to buy new and still available from Audi parts dept. What I intend to do is splice the wires under the nearside wheel arch and blend/solder the new loom in. Alternatively the cheaper option is just simply to tie up the existing wires and wrap in insulating tape.
Thank you Dave. Ah. That may be a temporary fix (and I'd hazard a guess, may have been done before, given that the warning light etc was on when I looked at the car, but was "fixed" when I picked it up). Would I be able to see the problem if I take the wheel off, or do I need to get right underneath?
Thank you
 
If you put the steering on full lock you should be able to see the wiring to the sensor without taking the wheel off . ?
 
@Teresa

Hi Teresa,

I am not quite certain what is the problem. Back in 2012 the original poster had the ABS AND (stress AND) the brake pads warning both illuminated, is this the case for you or just one or the other? Just checking to be clear from the start before offering advice.

Andy
 
The replacement loom runs all the way to the ECU Teresa and is a pain to route. They are around £50 to buy new and still available from Audi parts dept. What I intend to do is splice the wires under the nearside wheel arch and blend/solder the new loom in. Alternatively the cheaper option is just simply to tie up the existing wires and wrap in insulating tape.
Hi Dave,

I think you might find the repair loom (8Z0 927 904) is nearer to £60 these days. Surely it would be better to splice and solder new to old in the engine compartment rather than UNDER the wheel arch, a more benign environment. The repair loom has the necessary grommet and access to repair in the engine compartment is not too bad, at least in an FSI (can't remember if easier to move the coolant tank to one side). Be warned it is no guarantee of a fix, I was shocked at the corrosion on the bare stripped back pad wires when I cut in (whereas ABS wires pristine), must be something to do with the pad wires being an earth wire. I must have a discontinuity higher upstream not unheard of I read, (or my repair connection has failed).

Andy
 
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@Teresa

Hi Teresa,

I am not quite certain what is the problem. Back in 2012 the original poster had the ABS AND (stress AND) the brake pads warning both illuminated, is this the case for you or just one or the other? Just checking to be clear from the start before offering advice.

Andy
Thank you Andy. It's just the ABS and VCDS is coming up with ABS circuit fault, which made me think it's the wiring (particularly as its a 1.4 sport with 17 inch wheels).
I've got to get quite a few bits sorted underneath over time (mot advisories), but wanted to get them done in the summer really, so if I can fix it temporarily, for now it will do.
Merry Christmas ??
 
The garage that I use recently did this for me. Cut cables back to good non corroded wire, soldered in wire replaced from there to the sensors, wrapped the lot in self annealing tape and covered with spray on clear rubbery sealant.
 
There are 2 solutions and I have both but yet to fix. I originally bought a short lead which requires the soldering. I can't recall if it was an Audi part but vaguely recall it was a generic VW part new off ebay - I've read it's a common fault on many cars.

The 2nd and official solution is a long lead that splits. From memory the brake pad sensor wire goes through the bulkhead and to a connection point on the left side wall of the passenger footwell and to an earth point. The other lead for the ABS goes to the actuators for the braking system in the engine compartment. No soldering is required but you do need tools to dismantle the electrical connectors (pins in the plugs). Cheap ones available on ebay.

Reading best practice on electrical forums (non automotive), soldering is discouraged where there is movement as the solder joints can crack. Crimp connectors seem to be the preferred option but my guess is they can suffer from oxidisation unless well sealed. On the other had the end plugs are also push contacts where they connect to the brake pad cables and ABS sensor cables and could also oxidise - there has to be a joint of some form somewhere!

My brake wear warning light only comes on in the summer! So I've put off the job yet again.
 
.... The other lead for the ABS goes to the actuators for the braking system in the engine compartment. .....
Not sure this is correct. The four wire cable goes through the big grommet at the upper right of the bulkhead wall (viewed from the front looking at the windscreen). I thought the the ABS cores go to the passenger footwell compartment, the wires are certainly long enough.

Andy
 
I was going by memory. I did collect a lot of documentation but don't have time at the moment to re-read but did note this URL

 
My limited experience is FSI but I wonder if the ABS wiring route varies with which of the two ABS controllers is present, or that manual is simply wrong (not unheard of).

In fact has anybody got a copy of the ABS wiring diagram for a FSI?

Andy
 
20191229_145923_compress12.jpg

Well, I think I've found my problem and as suspected, it had a previous temporary fix.
My very rough bodge didnt fix it, so I'll get my garage to do it properly
 
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