Another stuck passenger door problem!

Latest update ....
Tried the door control module from the drivers side
No luck but at least it ruled that out
So I think the only option now is to try and cut the door latch rear plate in the B Pillar
I suppose it could be a connection problem in the A pillar connector.... but I can't figure out how to un do that - these VAG electrical connections I find tricky!
So before I work out how to stand on my head with a dremel cutter and a drill ...... any other ideas much appreciated
@timmus if you have any 'avoid cutting things " tips I'd really appreciate it. Trying to get this car ready for mot and need both cars running for fun of the family fair!
All the best
 
Hi, maybe totally wrong in this case, but my front passenger door is stuck, in either open or closed, most often in open and does not change while I lock the others but sometimes it switches over an become stuck locked, I then wiggle the door connector on the inside (passager foot well in my case) and switches the lock button back and forth at the same time and after 4-8 times I hear the lock doing something and the door opens, then it stuck in unlocked again..

I know I should fix it before it stays locked,😐

Just some information if you wants to try it...instead of cutting

BR
Fredrik
 
smilesbernard said:
Latest update ....
Tried the door control module from the drivers side
No luck but at least it ruled that out
So I think the only option now is to try and cut the door latch rear plate in the B Pillar
I suppose it could be a connection problem in the A pillar connector.... but I can't figure out how to un do that - these VAG electrical connections I find tricky!
So before I work out how to stand on my head with a dremel cutter and a drill ...... any other ideas much appreciated
@timmus if you have any 'avoid cutting things " tips I'd really appreciate it. relea dng to get this car ready for mot and need both cars running for fun of the family fair!
All the best
Click to expand...
The important thing with VAG connectors is to push it to in, as if plugging it in, at the same time as pressing the latch release/releases. Counter intuitive, but essential to release the latch mechanism.
Mac
 
The A-pillar connector has two actions to undo it: from memory first there's a (purple?) lug that has to be pushed or pulled to a detent then there's a tang to squeeze to unlatch it. Pushing it more firmly into place will probably help with both actions.
 
The issue with the A pillar connector or B pillar is that to disconnect it the door needs to be open as the locks are under the weather boot as the cable passes from the door into the car pillar. If you can not open the door you can not disconnect these connectors. All you can do is wiggle the inside pillar half and hope a loose connection is then made. Note have seen this wiring damaged and also corrosion in the plugs.
 
Zacharias said:
Hi, maybe totally wrong in this case, but my front passenger door is stuck, in either open or closed, most often in open and does not change while I lock the others but sometimes it switches over an become stuck locked, I then wiggle the door connector on the inside (passager foot well in my case) and switches the lock button back and forth at the same time and after 4-8 times I hear the lock doing something and the door opens, then it stuck in unlocked again..

I know I should fix it before it stays locked,😐

Just some information if you wants to try it...instead of cutting

BR
Fredrik
Click to expand...
Thanks for this
It's interesting as since this started there seems to be a noise from the footwell. A pronounced clicking when I open / close the door via the key or the drivers side door
I had a play with the CCU connections under the passenger footwear already but not whilst listening or trying to cycle the lock
Would you mind describing the connectors you tried and had success with please ? Are these under the passenger footwear (under the false floor) or to the left at the base of the A Pillar ( I had this trim off too chasing wires!)

Many thanks for your help
 
smilesbernard said:
Thanks for this
It's interesting as since this started there seems to be a noise from the footwell. A pronounced clicking when I open / close the door via the key or the drivers side door
I had a play with the CCU connections under the passenger footwear already but not whilst listening or trying to cycle the lock
Would you mind describing the connectors you tried and had success with please ? Are these under the passenger footwear (under the false floor) or to the left at the base of the A Pillar ( I had this trim off too chasing wires!)

Many thanks for your help
Click to expand...
Hi, the connector I wiggled was actually the connector for the door loom that goes out through the "wall" just in front of the door opening for the door with the faulty lock, the loom in the door connects to it from the out side.
 
HI there

just to update ... with the MOT looming .... i spoke to a VAG garage for advice.

the advice was to take a chisel to the door lock mech from the inside. Which was a suprise to me :)
break the plastic up until it was possible to get to the latch mechanism
having exhausted all other options (electrical wiggling and head scratching etc etc)... i feel i'm down to this rather brutalist option

or....... the similarly rough tactic @blippy mentioned earlier in the post ... dremelling the B pillar striker bolts and plates

My guess here is that the 'chisel the lock to pieces' approach might be best as it seems likely i need a new lock anyhow... whereas there is nothing wrong with my striker! As a reminder i tried the driver door control module in this stuck passenger side door.... and no joy. Power is reaching the lock.... but no desafe ....
I guess it still could be electrical as i believe the desafe signal is separate to the unlock cable ..... but hard to tell with tools i have

Any thoughts before i get the big chisel and hammer out ... very much appreciated!

All the best
M
 
smilesbernard said:
@timmus if you have any 'avoid cutting things " tips I'd really appreciate it.
Click to expand...
Yes, I do...

smilesbernard said:
the advice was to take a chisel to the door lock mech from the inside. break the plastic up until it was possible to get to the latch mechanism
Click to expand...
Exactly this. Hack your way into the electrical half of the lock (the black plastic housing that you can just about access from inside) and operate the deadlock manually.

smilesbernard said:
My guess here is that the 'chisel the lock to pieces' approach might be best as it seems likely i need a new lock anyhow
Click to expand...
Exactly. From my original post in this thread...
timmus said:
The worst case scenario that I have ever encountered resulted in some components of the electrical half of the lock being destroyed. Thankfully, I have ample stocks of all the internal lock components and am therefore able to enact an immediate repair to the lock.
Click to expand...

It may be worth sourcing an entire replacement lock (they are door-specific) before you start your attack.

All the best! :)

Tom
 
timmus said:
Yes, I do...


Exactly this. Hack your way into the electrical half of the lock (the black plastic housing that you can just about access from inside) and operate the deadlock manually.


Exactly. From my original post in this thread...


It may be worth sourcing an entire replacement lock (they are door-specific) before you start your attack.

All the best! :)

Tom
Click to expand...
great ... thanks for this Tom
yes please re the lock..... how do we do that?
Many thanks
 
Just an update on this
I took a chisel to the plastic lock mechanism
It took 5 mins and i was then able to access the lock mechanism by hand. Sorted.
I think this is a better option that the other technique i saw here and considered - grinding the backing plate of the door striker in the B Pillar.
Hope that helps anyone with the same issue
Cheers
 
smilesbernard said:
Just an update on this
I took a chisel to the plastic lock mechanism
It took 5 mins and i was then able to access the lock mechanism by hand. Sorted.
I think this is a better option that the other technique i saw here and considered - grinding the backing plate of the door striker in the B Pillar.
Hope that helps anyone with the same issue
Cheers
Click to expand...
These are great news! Can you explain in a greater detail what you’ve done, when you have a moment?

Another deadlocked door owner here, and I know it is not DCM or looms, unfortunately.
 
lavandism said:
These are great news! Can you explain in a greater detail what you’ve done, when you have a moment?

Another deadlocked door owner here, and I know it is not DCM or looms, unfortunately.
Click to expand...
Yes sure
I checked all the electrics as much as I could. That included switching the door control module from the drivers side and plugging it in
Still didn't open
I guess it could still be the electrics but I decided to force the issue and break the lock
I was able to get the door card off and also the aluminium inner door panel off ( required a bit of messing g about with a torx bit and a tiny rachet but all the screws did come out.
You can then see the lock module ....
The door release wire runs to it and it looks like this


I undid some of its casing screws (those I could reach) then used a chisel to break the black plastic cover
I did this until I could access the metal parts of the lock - at which point I was able to nopen the door inside and out
I put the door release cable back on and at least I can now open the door via that from inside and ..... I hope.... not fail mot on that at least !
Now the electric windows and boot have stopped working !!!

Good luck!
 
smilesbernard said:
Yes sure
I checked all the electrics as much as I could. That included switching the door control module from the drivers side and plugging it in
Still didn't open
I guess it could still be the electrics but I decided to force the issue and break the lock
I was able to get the door card off and also the aluminium inner door panel off ( required a bit of messing g about with a torx bit and a tiny rachet but all the screws did come out.
You can then see the lock module ....
The door release wire runs to it and it looks like this


I undid some of its casing screws (those I could reach) then used a chisel to break the black plastic cover
I did this until I could access the metal parts of the lock - at which point I was able to nopen the door inside and out
I put the door release cable back on and at least I can now open the door via that from inside and ..... I hope.... not fail mot on that at least !
Now the electric windows and boot have stopped working !!!

Good luck!
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot!!

For clarity: you moved metal parts of the lock directly? Not chiseling the black plastic in order to access the red lever?

I always had an idea that it is the red lever that moves the lock.
 
smilesbernard said:
Yes sure
I checked all the electrics as much as I could. That included switching the door control module from the drivers side and plugging it in
Still didn't open
I guess it could still be the electrics but I decided to force the issue and break the lock
I was able to get the door card off and also the aluminium inner door panel off ( required a bit of messing g about with a torx bit and a tiny rachet but all the screws did come out.
You can then see the lock module ....
The door release wire runs to it and it looks like this


I undid some of its casing screws (those I could reach) then used a chisel to break the black plastic cover
I did this until I could access the metal parts of the lock - at which point I was able to nopen the door inside and out
I put the door release cable back on and at least I can now open the door via that from inside and ..... I hope.... not fail mot on that at least !
Now the electric windows and boot have stopped working !!!

Good luck!
Click to expand...
Replacement parts are boxed up and will be posted tomorrow. 🙂👍🏻

Cheers,

Tom
 
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