bretti_kivi
Member
These are pretty easy, too.
1. remove the wheel.
2. If you have mudflaps. remove those. They use Phlips screws and an interesting clip system round the wing.
3. Pop through every single clip you can find. They are the push-fit clips. so put the center through around 5mm and they will go "pop"... try not to lose the centres. If you do, you might find it again, but you might need to replace. I'd recommend at least 5 spares on hand.
4. The liners are held on at the top by the suspension strut and at the bottom by a couple of screws. The number and positions varies.
At the front, there is also (at least to start with...) a nut on the bodywork, too. If it doesn't move, then there is still something keeping it in place.
5. Removal is a pain. It's strongly recommended to do this when you're in a good mood and have lots of time as it either goes well or badly. You will need to argue with it a certain amount; I'd also suggest cleaning them as much as possible before removal or you'll be cursing.
6. Replacement is the reverse of removal. For the front ones, hook them in the strut first and then push everything into place. The positioning of the main undertray is a bit of a black art, but IT IS LOGICAL! You may well want to take more screws out than necessary, as it will also make life simpler anyway.
Personal time estimate: 2 hours per wheel arch, 1 hour if you're practiced and don't have any problems removing the wheel.
Working with axle stands is highly recommended.
Bret
1. remove the wheel.
2. If you have mudflaps. remove those. They use Phlips screws and an interesting clip system round the wing.
3. Pop through every single clip you can find. They are the push-fit clips. so put the center through around 5mm and they will go "pop"... try not to lose the centres. If you do, you might find it again, but you might need to replace. I'd recommend at least 5 spares on hand.
4. The liners are held on at the top by the suspension strut and at the bottom by a couple of screws. The number and positions varies.
At the front, there is also (at least to start with...) a nut on the bodywork, too. If it doesn't move, then there is still something keeping it in place.
5. Removal is a pain. It's strongly recommended to do this when you're in a good mood and have lots of time as it either goes well or badly. You will need to argue with it a certain amount; I'd also suggest cleaning them as much as possible before removal or you'll be cursing.
6. Replacement is the reverse of removal. For the front ones, hook them in the strut first and then push everything into place. The positioning of the main undertray is a bit of a black art, but IT IS LOGICAL! You may well want to take more screws out than necessary, as it will also make life simpler anyway.
Personal time estimate: 2 hours per wheel arch, 1 hour if you're practiced and don't have any problems removing the wheel.
Working with axle stands is highly recommended.
Bret
]