Are 1.6 FSis now fully reliable?

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sunsurfer

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About 4 years ago when I was researching A2s I was strongly tempted to buy a 1.6 FSi. What's not to like? Near Diesel economy, technologically advanced engine, and a useful boost of hp over a Tdi or 1.4 petrol.

Then I read forum comments about reliability and decided, as it would be our only car, and we needed it to start and run without problems, that I dare not buy a FSi. Some members will tell me I'm wrong. ;)

With the Proboost map - discussed on numerous other posts - does this mean that FSi issues are now sorted and an owner with an FSi, (with a Proboost map installed), shouldn't expect any more issues than a Tdi or 1.4 petrol?
 
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The way I read it, the owner of an FSI on which the aged and now brittle cooling system plastics have already been sorted, can rely on them staying sorted if they apply the ProBoost map. Additionally the flaps, NOX and I believe EGR (@A2Steve please correct me as needed :)) systems are taken out of the equation altogether thus removing any nascent issues there too.
 
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That’s correct Ian, EGR is also removed.

The ideal situation would be to have a perfectly running standard FSI that has been pampered from new but with 99% of them this just isn’t the case.

The Pro Boost map has given a new lease of life to many a tired FSI. My own FSI is a good example of this. 127k miles numerous owners and parts service history. I’ve had no FSI related issues in my car in the 6 months of ownership since fitting the map.

I also own a TDI75 (Dune) that feels very agricultural when compared to the free revving (quiet when standard) FSI. So much so that I’ll be selling the Dune off shortly and just using the FSI as my only car.
 
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I have recently bought 3 fsi two sports and one color storm and one of my colant pipes burst yesterday I stopped the car straight away and phoned the r.a.c I make a thread yesterday but no response could do with some help please I have been told you can get it remapped so the engine runs cooler but just wanted a second opinion and wanted to know exactly how it works.
 
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@a2roger :

from new, in the interest of economy, the FSI runs with an internal coolant temperature of 110C.
This negatively affects the longevity of the plastic which is used in the coolant system.
The ProBoost mapping drops the internal temp to 90C and eliminates the stratified component of the engine ignition mapping, so it runs cooler but may use a little more fuel.
The thermostat in an FSI is not a simple "open / close" as in the 1.4, it is way more complex than that, mostly, again, in the interest of fuel efficiency.

For the lower temps you will need a ProBoost map - Steve has ECUs in a swap setup. If you want to do this, I would get on with it, as if there's a no-deal Brexit, his paperwork is going to get complex and the pricing will go up due to duties, never mind questions about certifications. Times for a swap will also go up and there's going to be fun and games with shipping, too.

Remember you *must* use 98 in an FSI if you want a long service life.

As to whether you will get "as reliable a car"? probably not. Why? because the aging of the plastics has already been accelerated. But if you've already replaced those and not allowed the new ones to be aged in the same way, then yes, one of the major drawbacks to the car has been removed. Still doesn't necessarily obviate the need for 98 (I don't drive one so can't comment) and the management systems are still more complex. There's also still the issue that the car is rare and therefore parts are likely to be harder to come by than for a common-or-garden variety like the AUA or BBY which has been installed in the hundreds of thousands rather than ten or twenty thousand.

The ProBoost update / remap is still relatively new so the long term effects can't honestly be stated. There should be no side effects, but as stated previously - if you want a quiet life and don't have a garage, stick with a 1.4. If it's #YOLO and you like to see your mechanic driving a nice car, then by all means grab a 1.6.

(that's a little tongue-in-cheek).
 
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A2Steve said:
That’s correct Ian, EGR is also removed.

The ideal situation would be to have a perfectly running standard FSI that has been pampered from new but with 99% of them this just isn’t the case.

The Pro Boost map has given a new lease of life to many a tired FSI. My own FSI is a good example of this. 127k miles numerous owners and parts service history. I’ve had no FSI related issues in my car in the 6 months of ownership since fitting the map.

I also own a TDI75 (Dune) that feels very agricultural when compared to the free revving (quiet when standard) FSI. So much so that I’ll be selling the Dune off shortly and just using the FSI as my only car.
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The Pro Boost map has indeed given many of the high mileage FSI’s a new lease of life and eradicated most of the weak points.

Its worth bearing in mind that the the weak points were usually down to neglect by previous owners (low grade fuel, poor maintenance, cheap oil, etc.). There are lots of FSI’s that have been looked after so worth hunting for one of them.

I completely agree with @A2Steve that the diesels are too agricultural and when buying my A2, the FSI was the only one I wanted. I’m very happy and don’t ever crave for a TDI for my purposes. I’m not in any need of the Pro Boost solution as mine only has 28k miles on it, something however to consider when it’s on 80k so at the current rate, maybe in 25 years! That’s the other reason I didn’t need a diesel.
 
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A2Steve said:
That’s correct Ian, EGR is also removed.

The ideal situation would be to have a perfectly running standard FSI that has been pampered from new but with 99% of them this just isn’t the case.

The Pro Boost map has given a new lease of life to many a tired FSI. My own FSI is a good example of this. 127k miles numerous owners and parts service history. I’ve had no FSI related issues in my car in the 6 months of ownership since fitting the map.

I also own a TDI75 (Dune) that feels very agricultural when compared to the free revving (quiet when standard) FSI. So much so that I’ll be selling the Dune off shortly and just using the FSI as my only car.
Click to expand...
@A2Steve
Can you expand on the EGR removal, why and how, please? What about PCV system, does that go with the EGR? If so, how is the crankcase vented?
What are the implications of EGR /PCV on tailpipe emissions?
Mac.
 
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Taking egr off a petrol engine is a bad idea. It contributes around a 10% improvement in efficiency (unlike a tdi where egr lessens efficiency)

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
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Yep, the importing of Pro Boost will be interesting after Brexit.

I’m hoping I can get a batch of 10 in before January 1st.
 
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@A2Steve your HS code is probably 85371000. You may need a certificate of origin, which is going to be fun. I would stockpile and assume paperwork city if no-deal happens. This is a page from Finnish customs on what we need to do when importing and exporting is similar. I'd also check with Adrian if he has any thoughts, as their paperwork is also going to get more complex if no-deal happens.
I deal with this kind of thing regularly through work and it's astounding just how picky Customs can be when they feel like it - I had a case this morning where some spare parts have been stuck in Customs in SE Asia for a week because the name on the package and the name on the import licence don't match 100%...
 
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Halduck said:
Taking egr off a petrol engine is a bad idea. It contributes around a 10% improvement in efficiency (unlike a tdi where egr lessens efficiency)

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That is my concern. Could not see an obvious link between ECU mapping and EGR/PCV. Any modern engine's pressuer vacum vent system is complex, and integral to the design, not to mention approvals and the environment.
I'm pro ProBoost, when it's the only logical way forward, but not convinced about modifying the "plumbing"
Mac.
 
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It will be Halloween soon. To whom it may concern.... ?

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Stefano
 

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