Information Audi A2 3L - Bought as non-runner...

Glide tube and clutch beering is wisely bought from vw in original quality for a long lasting replacement.

remember to buy the clutch arm and the fork for the bearing too. The fork gets worn at the push connection between the bearing. and the arm have a weakness in the welding. Last thing is the tripods cups. When they get worn so the car wiggles when your gearbox change down before your car stops. But they are expensive. How many km has it been driven?
 
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Good to see your progress!

I would recommend avoiding any structural mods like open sky, three seat rear bench and tow bar. This car was designed with lightness in mind.

Better to get a Skoda diesel or even a 159 Alfa estate to lug the heavy stuff - cheaper overall

Worth replacing all the bearings in the gbox.

Keep sipping the fuel! Here's my 0.5 litre fuel tank conversion:
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Moving on with the A2 3L...

The broken selector fork was replaced along with lots of the usual parts to make sure that it lasts and doesn't leak!

Going back together...

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All back in, working as it should without any crunchy crunches ;)

A quick clean and a visit from Tom Timmus who (while I fitted the gearbox) fitted a set of very rare mph 3L speedometer backings and dropped off the centre from a double din (not broken!) dash for me to swap over into mine. Thanks Tom :)

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MG
 
Just a general update.

Since going back together, I've still not felt that the engine was pulling as strongly as it should and it's always been slow in comparison to the Lupo 3L which I've driven for a couple of years.

Looking further into it, I realised that the boost wasn't coming on properly until over 2,500 rpm and it was fairly flat. The ECU was then putting it into limp mode with an error code of 'low boost' or similar.

As I've already had the turbo apart and free'd it up, I looked elsewhere.

Also, the brakes have been fairly rubbish from time to time with me having to push very hard to get the car to slow down.

As both the servo and the turbo get their source of vacuum from the same place, I had a close look at the tandem pump.

The connection to the pump was loose! I tried to tighten up the clip but it didn't make any difference.

On pulling the pipe off, I realised that the fitting into the tandem pump was loose within the body and as it's a crimped in fitting (this is the original pump to the engine) there was very little that could be done with it.

Looking at the part numbers, Audi have upgraded the connection design twice (so three designs in total) with the rest of the pump looking the same so obviously, this has been a problem!

I grabbed a replacement tandem pump of the latest design which features a screw in pipe (maybe what Audi should've done on the original design!) and fitted it.

Night and day difference. The brakes feel good (other than a long pedal but more on that later) but wow does it go now!

Add to that, the nice little hike in power from Tom up to 90bhp when in 'Normal' mode and this little car is quite nippy now.

Fuel economy is around 70-75mpg around town now. I haven't travelled for long distances since to get an idea of any difference for the motorway mpg but it's a lot nicer to drive now.

Also, I have fitted a set of Black Leather Sport seats (just the fronts for now) to the car and I'm enjoying driving the car a lot more now.

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MG
 
I bought a second hand pump but with the latest part design: 038145209Q.

It was €40 inc delivery from Europe. Cheap enough to take a risk.

They're fitted to 4 cyl PD TDi engines so are plentiful.

It's fixed all of the turbo boost and brake servo issues.

MG
 
Fitted a new Bosch tandem pump from Germany.

Alas now back to gbox issues: indicates correct gears numbers but no actual change, engine idles but no throttle response - starts in N and stops with key.

Have to check hydraulic fluid and vagcom tomorrow!
 
Fitted a new Bosch tandem pump from Germany.

Alas now back to gbox issues: indicates correct gears numbers but no actual change, engine idles but no throttle response - starts in N and stops with key.

Have to check hydraulic fluid and vagcom tomorrow!

Clutch actuator pot.? A basic setting might get you mobile but not for long. If so, upgrade to Hall sensor from German forum member Mankmil.

RAB
 
Yes, G162. Just log in to the German site and PM him. In English if you like. It's €180. You will have to send the sensor end (only) to him.

RAB
 
I bought a second hand pump but with the latest part design: 038145209Q.

It was €40 inc delivery from Europe. Cheap enough to take a risk.

They're fitted to 4 cyl PD TDi engines so are plentiful.

It's fixed all of the turbo boost and brake servo issues.

MG
Does this fit the TDi75 please?
 
Daily running update.

July 31st... The gearbox control system decided to dump all of it's hydraulic oil on the floor after one of the pipes from the solenoid block popped out due to a worn clip.

Result - stranded at the road side having dumped lots of oil on the floor :(

However, a new clip and a quick bleed with fresh oil (plus a generous washing down with brake cleaner) and all was good.

Fast forward to August 30th and again, the A2 dumped me at the roadside but this time it just put me in neutral and took away the throttle so it sat there idling.

I could tell that it was something do with the ECU not knowing which position I had put the gear lever in as the instrument cluster knew when I had moved the gear lever over to 'Tiptronic' but otherwise it just showed 'N'.

I was moving the gear lever across to Tiptronic when the failure occurred.

I got a lift home and then collected the car (A-frame) later that day and it sat on the drive in disgrace for a couple of weeks until I had time to look at it.

The fault turned out to be a broken wire to the gear selector switch at the bottom of the gear lever.

I soldered it back together and the car was fixed.... for a while!

Saturday evening 22th Sept saw the fault return and I was 35 miles away from home without tools at 10pm :(

I managed to get into the area by using whatever was lying around inside the car. The wire next to the one I had repaired had broken!

I managed to shove the wire back in and jam it with an opened key-ring and the inner parts of a pen. It was enough to get me home where I did a proper repair finishing at around midnight in the rain. Not fun!

I have realised through this process that there is a bit of a design flaw with the A2 3L shifter.

The wiring to the three pin plug (gear lever switch) is fixed around 75mm away from it but when you move the lever across to Tiptronic, the whole module moves... but the wires can't! So they have to flex and pull and eventually, they break. Not ideal!!

I'll be replacing the wires and lengthening them plus re-routing them so that they run around the linkage (or similar) to allow for more flex in the system.

For now, I'm not using Tiptronic mode and the car is fine.

MG
 
On longer journeys I usually pack duct tape, cable ties, some wire/cable and connector strip as I dislike knowing how to fix something without bits to fix it with. Sounds like you were already travelling with 'everything' you needed. :)
 
With a 1.2Tdi, it's always a good idea to travel with your toolbox! I would never go to France without VCDS!

RAB
 
My life is taking some fairly massive changes atm and the A2 is my only vehicle.

I'm doing lots and lots of miles in it and the piddly little 21 litre fuel tank is driving me potty!

As such, I'm now looking more and more into fitting the 42 litre fuel tank that I've had kicking around for a while.

However... it's not just a case of changing the tank.

The following parts are different and must be changed at the same time or modified to clear the larger fuel tank.

Exhaust
Heat Shields
Fuel pipes
Fuel filter housing and brackets

On with the research into the parts and what to do with the exhaust as the 1.2TDi is 38mm in diameter and the 1.4TDi 42 litre matching exhaust is 50mm in diameter and both parts of the system are different rather than just the rear section. I can do without having to create a complete new system right now.

MG
 
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