Black Mambo TDi75
- Thread starter CrispyEdd
- Start date
CrispyEdd
Member
Having fit all the suspension now, I can say it's excellent, tighter turning well damped like a modern Car. Very very nice 
I don't find the eibach pro fabia springs any lower really, maybe fabia is higher? Car sits spot on to me and rides really well.
However there is a clunk still, so I slapped some HD droplinks on while had a spare hour, wow they also have made a change to direction movements! Awesome
Clunk still there and a drone. So only leaves ball joint (checked ok when doing suspension) and tie rod end (new a few months back).
I wiggled the brake calipers and disc up and down and there's a tiny but of play. I tried other side and no play. So it must be the hub bearing or the hub nut come loose...
Annoying as otherwise would be ready to rock and roll again.
I have the tool and the bearing so need more time now.....This fella is three this week so getting some extra love
I don't find the eibach pro fabia springs any lower really, maybe fabia is higher? Car sits spot on to me and rides really well.
However there is a clunk still, so I slapped some HD droplinks on while had a spare hour, wow they also have made a change to direction movements! Awesome
Clunk still there and a drone. So only leaves ball joint (checked ok when doing suspension) and tie rod end (new a few months back).
I wiggled the brake calipers and disc up and down and there's a tiny but of play. I tried other side and no play. So it must be the hub bearing or the hub nut come loose...
Annoying as otherwise would be ready to rock and roll again.
I have the tool and the bearing so need more time now.....This fella is three this week so getting some extra love
CrispyEdd
Member
Just tonfollow on from this above, I have bought wrong front springs. The car sits high at then front because the springs are from a 1.9 not 1.4 tdi fabia 6y kit. A good 60-80kg harder rating!
Expensive mistake :-( I'll replace them with right ones and report back ASAP.
Here's a shot to demonstrate the extra height
Expensive mistake :-( I'll replace them with right ones and report back ASAP.
Here's a shot to demonstrate the extra height
CrispyEdd
Member
Had a spare hour tonight so cracked on in the hot 
, for a change, to replace the rear Hubs and inspect the brakes.
The car really doesn't brake well compared to my other A2. There is also a big rumble like I have a tractor tyre on too.
Here's what I found..
To my untrained eye all looked okay not much lip on the drum or scoring but we'll used. The shoes seem to have soke meat on them. I cleaned it all out and sprayed it with brake cleaner carefully.
I placed a drop of oil and wiggled the adjuster up and down a bit.
The bearings that came out has lots of play inward and outward on the axle and no grease left on them, some play up and down too.
New bits on. 7
70nm and 30deg for the 30mm bihex nut.
I must admit on one side I didn't oil the adjuster so will do that tomorrow night.
I guess it drops back down in under the spring tension as you brake to self adjust?
First time looking a drum brakes, never touched them before. Fairly simple I guess.
I noticed one drum is a touch oval as it rubs as it spins.
Will take it for a drive and check it all after some grub.
EDIT - rumble gone so job worth doing. Dead easy too. I'll thinknabout collecting up parts for brake overhaul next.
, for a change, to replace the rear Hubs and inspect the brakes.The car really doesn't brake well compared to my other A2. There is also a big rumble like I have a tractor tyre on too.
Here's what I found..
To my untrained eye all looked okay not much lip on the drum or scoring but we'll used. The shoes seem to have soke meat on them. I cleaned it all out and sprayed it with brake cleaner carefully.
I placed a drop of oil and wiggled the adjuster up and down a bit.
The bearings that came out has lots of play inward and outward on the axle and no grease left on them, some play up and down too.
New bits on. 7
70nm and 30deg for the 30mm bihex nut.
I must admit on one side I didn't oil the adjuster so will do that tomorrow night.
I guess it drops back down in under the spring tension as you brake to self adjust?
First time looking a drum brakes, never touched them before. Fairly simple I guess.
I noticed one drum is a touch oval as it rubs as it spins.
Will take it for a drive and check it all after some grub.
EDIT - rumble gone so job worth doing. Dead easy too. I'll thinknabout collecting up parts for brake overhaul next.
Last edited:
audifan
A2OC Donor
Replace both drums and brake shoes. Thoroughly clean all remaining parts or even consider replacing the hardware. Oval drum no good.
Do not use any oil anywhere inside rear drums. Remove all surface rust from the backing plates and check the teflon slider "blobs" are present and not worn. Reassemble with the adjuster wedge fully up.
Before you refit the tyres check their age, tread wear and for ovality. Then check the wheels are round.
Ironically the rear brakes are far easier to work on with the hub removed!
Do not use any oil anywhere inside rear drums. Remove all surface rust from the backing plates and check the teflon slider "blobs" are present and not worn. Reassemble with the adjuster wedge fully up.
Before you refit the tyres check their age, tread wear and for ovality. Then check the wheels are round.
Ironically the rear brakes are far easier to work on with the hub removed!
CrispyEdd
Member
Thanks Graham. can you explain the teflon slider bit please?
i only put one tiny drop of chain oil on the wedge where it enters the adjust fame.
i flicked the wedge up to remove the drums so that should be okay?
i cleaned and rust removed as much as i could. If it's not better or handbrake stays high I'll have a go at replcing the shoes and hardware. I know cyclinders are okay as did them at garage last Feb.
i only put one tiny drop of chain oil on the wedge where it enters the adjust fame.
i flicked the wedge up to remove the drums so that should be okay?
i cleaned and rust removed as much as i could. If it's not better or handbrake stays high I'll have a go at replcing the shoes and hardware. I know cyclinders are okay as did them at garage last Feb.
Joga
A2OC Donor
The six white things are the plastic gliders which the shoes rest on sideways.
They need to be in good condition. Mind you, dont underestimate the positive effects of hand brake cables in good condition, the wires need to be able to move freely in their conduits for the mechanism to work well.
They need to be in good condition. Mind you, dont underestimate the positive effects of hand brake cables in good condition, the wires need to be able to move freely in their conduits for the mechanism to work well.
audifan
A2OC Donor
You are tackling this from the wrong end. The service brake i.e. drum and shoes must be serviceable first and then correctly adjusted. The handbrake lever will be replaced with new shoes. Once that is done and provided one or more handbrake cable is not seized and the springs on the end of the cables are still working correctly the handbrake should operate correctly. The cable adjuster inside the cabin is only to take up the slack due to weakened springs on the ends of the cables
CrispyEdd
Member
Hi @audifan
I will replace the shoes and hardware and drums ASAP. The mot is due 4th June so it will fail now on the handbrake, nothing I can do to get handbrake back to working state? All I did was flick adjuster up, it was OK before.
I have a full suite of cables here If needed.
Any special tool required to fit new shoes?
I will replace the shoes and hardware and drums ASAP. The mot is due 4th June so it will fail now on the handbrake, nothing I can do to get handbrake back to working state? All I did was flick adjuster up, it was OK before.
I have a full suite of cables here If needed.
Any special tool required to fit new shoes?
audifan
A2OC Donor
No special tools needed. As said far easier to do with the hubs off as the complete shoes and springs can be assembled and first and just a case of fitting to the slave cylinder and locating over the lower pivot point after hooking in the hand brake cable and the hold down pins and springs located through the backing plate.
With the hub still fitted you will need to fit the rear shoe to the handbrake cable first and the spreader bar to that shoe, locate that shoe on the slave and lower pivot and fit the hold down pin. Now you need to juggle the other shoe onto the spreader bar and fit the upper springs. Now locate onto the slave cylinder and hopefully not pop the piston out!. Fit the lower spring and lever the shoe onto the lower pivot and fit the hold down pin.
Double check everything is fitted correctly especially how the shoes are fitted onto the slave cylinder - the step on the cylinder must be facing outwards so as to trap the shoes. Centralise the shoes and fit the drums. Firmly press the brake pedal six times. This is how the self adjuster wedges drop down to take up the free space. Check the drum rotates with little or no rub from the shoes. Repeat the pushing of the brake pedal again if still to much free play.. Now apply the hand brake and on the fourth click the drum should be locked solid. Check both sides the same, fit the wheels and take for a gentle test drive. The brakes will take a bit of time to bed in.
Hopefully the cables are OK as the were working fine before. So unless seized or weak spring the only other weakness is corrosion of the cables especially at the couplings.
With the hub still fitted you will need to fit the rear shoe to the handbrake cable first and the spreader bar to that shoe, locate that shoe on the slave and lower pivot and fit the hold down pin. Now you need to juggle the other shoe onto the spreader bar and fit the upper springs. Now locate onto the slave cylinder and hopefully not pop the piston out!. Fit the lower spring and lever the shoe onto the lower pivot and fit the hold down pin.
Double check everything is fitted correctly especially how the shoes are fitted onto the slave cylinder - the step on the cylinder must be facing outwards so as to trap the shoes. Centralise the shoes and fit the drums. Firmly press the brake pedal six times. This is how the self adjuster wedges drop down to take up the free space. Check the drum rotates with little or no rub from the shoes. Repeat the pushing of the brake pedal again if still to much free play.. Now apply the hand brake and on the fourth click the drum should be locked solid. Check both sides the same, fit the wheels and take for a gentle test drive. The brakes will take a bit of time to bed in.
Hopefully the cables are OK as the were working fine before. So unless seized or weak spring the only other weakness is corrosion of the cables especially at the couplings.
birtyA2
A2OC Donor
audifan
A2OC Donor
Yes they are pushed out from behind. Make sure there is no loose rust around the holes then push in the new ones making sure they are all the way home .
Here they are on Autodoc, available in other locations and even the dealers as used on VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda
Here they are on Autodoc, available in other locations and even the dealers as used on VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda
Joga
A2OC Donor
Aftermarket option which I normally buy: QUICK BRAKE 6858K.
Edit: there must be some timing issues in my phone, Grahams post with this info was not visible when I posted. Sorry for an unnecessary post
Last edited:
SamT
A2OC Donor
Can you show the spec / part code and source of the new hubs you fitted here?Had a spare hour tonight so cracked on in the hot
The car really doesn't brake well compared to my other A2. There is also a big rumble like I have a tractor tyre on too.
Here's what I found..View attachment 123559
View attachment 123562
To my untrained eye all looked okay not much lip on the drum or scoring but we'll used. The shoes seem to have soke meat on them. I cleaned it all out and sprayed it with brake cleaner carefully.
I placed a drop of oil and wiggled the adjuster up and down a bit.
The bearings that came out has lots of play inward and outward on the axle and no grease left on them, some play up and down too.
New bits on. 70nm and 30deg for the 30mm bihex nut.
View attachment 123560View attachment 123561
I must admit on one side I didn't oil the adjuster so will do that tomorrow night.
I guess it drops back down in under the spring tension as you brake to self adjust?
First time looking a drum brakes, never touched them before. Fairly simple I guess.
I noticed one drum is a touch oval as it rubs as it spins.
Will take it for a drive and check it all after some grub.
EDIT - rumble gone so job worth doing. Dead easy too. I'll thinknabout collecting up parts for brake overhaul next.
I may have to change mine sooner rather than later.
thanks Sam