Central Convienience module fault ? 01330 J393

M

MissSpentYouth

Member
Hi All, Well I have had a 52 Plate 1.4TDi SE A2 for 6 months now when I first got the car the battery would go flat over the weekend so I bought a new one and thought I had fixed it. Came back from a weeks holiday flat as a pancake, just got back a from a weekend away and pretty flat not enough juice to start it :-(

A bit more info - rear nearside passenger electric window has never worked, you get the feintest movement but we are talking tiny, passenger side window often takes a few goes to get closed other two windows work fine. Passenger side window did conk out the other day half open and I had to disconnect the battery to reset it so I could get it closed. When you turn the ignition on you get three clonks from the rear nearside passenger door, sounds like the central locking unit cycling.

If I put an ammeter in series with the battery I see about half an amp current draw with the ignition and all lights off, hence the flat battery, if I pull central locking fuse then this drops to less than 100mA much better, oddly when I reinserted the fuse it stayed low ?

If I plug in a VAG Comm type tool then I see fault code 01330 - Central Convienience Module J393 37-00 faulty.

Do you think I need to change my Central Convienience Module ?

The numbers on my CCM are H14/S006 8Z0 959 433P 00006494B4 00070650

Any one live near me that I could try swapping modules with to see if it fixes the above GL6 9EQ near Stroud Gloucestershire

cheers Ben
 
Does sound like your CCC is duff.. Its probably not shutting down the electrics it governs once the car is locked / alarmed, hence the dead battery.

Also that code you quoted normally only appears when the the VAGCOM cannot connect to the CCC, could be worth checking the CCC fuse in the fuse box

John
 
Hi John, I dont think it is the fuse as my remote central locking and most of my windows all still work.

Can anyone comment on using Lau's services from Germany on repairing faulty Central Convieniece Modules ?
 
Hi Ben

I have used LAU service to mend my unit. He sent me a working unit while he worked on mine. Cost was about 80 Euros. The unit he gave me is here in the UK

Hope it works out for you

A2O2
 
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Hi All, If I buy a second hand unit and dont want to pay a visit to the audi dealership to get it recoded do I have to obtain an identicle partnumbered CCU down to the final letter ? mine is a P suffix. I have a version of VCDS that allows me to reset things, would that be sufficient to do any recoding or do I need a fully paid up version ? Does the fact that my car has rear electric windows make any difference (i.e. if the new CCU comes from a manual rear window car) thanks for all your help Ben.
 
I think it has to match exactly if I remember correctly. Also you will need to re do your keys to the car. I think that would be a visit to Mike Skipton or Sarge786.
 
Well I received Lau's CCU today so put it in the car to see if it made a difference. The good news is the sticky CCU faults I had can be cleared with the new CCU and stay cleared. The bad news is everything else is the same rear window doesn't work, passenger window a bit flaky when closing and current drain when car all closed up and locked 0.45A i.e. leave it for a week and the battery will be flat. Not sure what to do now as I was convinced the CCU would fix it :-(

If it was the alarm causing the current drain then if I just close the door and dont lock it then surely the alarm circuits shouldn't be activated and I wouldn't see the current drain is that correct ?

Any other ideas as at the minute I am resigned to fitting a battery isolator switch somewhere ?

cheers

Ben
 
there must be an additional error message somewhere, probably something along the lines of "will not safe", probably from the rear door where the window won't work. I would look there to start with, as the TSG communicates with the KSG (so the door "brain" talks to the CCU) and if there's a short or current issue in the door or within the connectors, that might explain the battery. It might be the window switch in the door itself.

Current drain for the first 10 minutes should be under 100mA and after an hour it should drop to 10mA IIRC; there are some measurements on this somewhere on the German forum.

I'd check your door with the sticky window first, followed by the passenger side one. Maybe simply disconnect everything from the TSG (DCU in English?) and then re-check your current numbers. Then disconnect the door from the body side and repeat. The connectors are relatively easy to find and some of them do occasionally have issues.

Bret
 
Well I got some time this evening to take another look at this. Pulling fuses doesn't seem to make much differnce only fuse 16 the central locking and courtesy light fuse makes a small difference (coutesy lights turned off inc boot) but not enough to make a difference. Pulled all the plugs from the CCU no differerence. So I pulled off the rear NS door card to take a look at that window that wont work plus the funny central locking sound I get when you unlock the door. If I pull the connector off the electric window winder module then my current drain with everything off inc the ignition etc drops from 510mA to 170mA result. Tried it on the other rear door which works fine and no change in current drain so I conclude duff unit. I have just bought a replacement off eBay for £55 inc P & P so fingers crossed that might fix my window and central locking noise plus improve battery life by a factor of 3. Will let you know when it arrives, cheers Ben.
 
Well my new rear window winder arrived today so I swapped it over. On the plus side I now have a fully functioning rear window and no funny clicking noises when you unlock the car :) On the miuns side my current drain is still up around 450mA which will still kill the battery in a couple of days :-( I tried disconecting the new rear winder unit and that made no difference seems to be a good unit and it works fine too. Tried disconecting the front nearside unit as that is a bit ropey and that dropped the current drain by 50mA so will buy a new one when one comes up for sale on eBay at a reasonable price. Bit of a loss now will start a new tread undre flat battery.
 
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