Changing shock absorbers

A2Z3

A2Z3

Member
Just got an offer from the local garage (not an Audigarage) for changing shock absorbers on my 2004 Audi A2 1,6 FSI.
The offer was approx: 550 Pounds for four shock absorbers, and 800 Pounds for the work (2hours per absorber)
I find this "on the higher end" of what I'm willing to pay, and would like to try it myself. Any difficulties I could expect, or any special tools required like a spring clamp for example?
Any brand suggestions for good shock absorbers that suits the car?

Best Regards
A2Z3
 
Shock absorbers are a personal choice.... I havn,t heard any bad reports on any make other than the Koni,s which appear to have rust problems after a short period of time. This can easily be resolved though by painting prior to fitting which is a good suggestion on any make bought new.

Ive had Monroes fitted for over 12 months now without any issues. They were recommended by club members as they are reasonably priced and are more or less standard in line with OEM.

You would need a spring clamp and a Bracket "splitter" for the bottom of the front shock absorbers but please be careful with the spring clamps. We all have used them but they come with their safety warnings.

One side is said to be quite straightforward but the side with the brake fluid reservoir is more awkward as it would have to be moved to one side to gain access to the top mount bolts. I thought about doing the job myself but in the end took my car to a local garage and it took them 5 hrs at a cost of £250 labour just for the front ones replacing. Other members have done it but it has taken a lot longer any many swear words which is why I took the garage option.

I managed the rear ones myself... they are quite easy to do if you have a jemmy (needed if you need to replace the springs), a torque wrench, possibly a bar extension and impact sockets. The impact sockets are important as the cheaper ones will just split open. The hardest bit on the rears is carefully removing the studs which hold in the rear arch lining but they are not expensive and can still be bought from dealers.

Cheers
Dave :)
 
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Hi the labour seems reasonable but the price of the shocks/dampers is high. I would imagine that's the price Audi charge for new struts and rear dampers. As Dave says above- Monroe reflex are excellent and can be had from Amazon from £110 delivered a set of four ! Also factor in to the cost new top mounts and bearings plus front dust shields and bump stops - rear dust covers and bumps tops. I would also fit new bolts.
Are you having new springs?
It soon adds up but it is so nice once done. Cheers Mike
 
Wow £100 per hour labour!! Its £30 where I live.

All of the parts came to around £450 when I did my suspension change this year but that was for a complete overhaul with lowered springs.
 
A2Steve said:
Wow £100 per hour labour!! Its £30 where I live.

All of the parts came to around £450 when I did my suspension change this year but that was for a complete overhaul with lowered springs.
Click to expand...
I think (well I hope) it's 250 Steve the difference between the parts and fitted price. £250 I would say is fair. The FSI is easier to fit as there is no websto in the way although the drivers side is still tight.
 
a2sumo said:
I think (well I hope) it's 250 Steve the difference between the parts and fitted price. £250 I would say is fair. The FSI is easier to fit as there is no websto in the way although the drivers side is still tight.
Click to expand...

I'm just referring to parts prices, perhaps it was £350 in total. Labour was obviously free as I did it myself. The shocks and springs were over £200 alone. Then with top mounts, drop links, spring seats, dust covers etc etc etc it soon added up. These items aren't essential but I plan to keep the car indefinately so wanted to do it right.
 
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I bought front struts from a German website for the Polo, they where about 6 euro each, cost me more in P&P, came to about £25 delivered and took about a week to arrive. Do a search under Depronman as a wrote a thread on doing the job. Took the afternoon to do both front on a TDI and yes the drivers side is MUCH harder to get at the 3 top bolts than the passenger side. You will also need a set of spring compressors and a 7mm allen key, other than that a normal home mechanics tool set is all that is needed.
The backs on mine where not so bad so still looking out for a deal on a pair of rears, they are dead easy to change compared to the fronts

Changing the fronts made a big difference to ride quality, now rides bumps and pot holes like a new car. I also changed the anti role bar bushes at the same time as they had also seen better days.

Let me know if you need any further info

Those labour and part prices are simply outrageous

Cheers,
Paul (depronman)
 
€100 per hour is completely normal in Europe for an Audi main dealer.

€50 per hour for my local garage... but I did the set with a little help myself in around 6 hours. Spring compressor needed.

Replace the bolts as described in the complete suspension list. Do not skimp on replacing the torque +30 degree bolts, they are stretch bolts and must be replaced.

Personally, I would not now go anything softer than B6 / B8, but that's me, and I'm looking for a tied-to-the-ground ride. At the very least, replace droplinks, front top mounts, and ARB bushes at the same time.

- Bret
 
If you 24sept can come to Legden with your shock absorbers , you can put them under yourself. Get help from A2 members



39. NRW screwdriver meeting in Legden - 09/24/2016

We meet again in a relaxed atmosphere in the Schraubermietwerkstatt of Alexander Knox in Legden.

Please consider submitting to you a case of interest in the list below, especially if you need help with a particular work or special tools.
Not screwdriver and newcomers are of course welcome! We look forward to each new face!


When: 09/24/2016, 8:00 am to about 18:00
Where: Automietwerkstatt in Legden, the railway embankment 17, 48739 Legden


Free parking is available sufficiently in front of the hall.

Please keep in mind all the parts which bring her needs. Some parts especially for service work can be purchased locally at Alexander.
On tool - partially also special tools for our Alukugeln there should be no shortage, if need be asked again after.

As required, the entire hall will be reserved for us. First come, has the best chance to snag one of four lifts or one of the three spaces in the hall.


The journey is pleasant, as pretty close to the exit "32-Legden / Ahaus" the A31.
The workshop is tucked away: There is a side road to long-drawn "on the embankment" with the same name. Indicated by workshop sign and a dead end sign with the house number 17th
Some navigation devices the address is probably not properly allocated. Therefore, the following notice for the last few meters of direction A31:
From the industrial road coming to the left into the street "Am Bahndamm" enter and take the next street left again into Stichstaße. On the corner is a timber trade.


We still have a request:
Please check that your executing your projects independently. If your something definitely not can itself, clears off beforehand whether and who can help you.
The screwdriver meeting is there that you can help each other when problems arise and not so you can do other work!
Who needs the help of other screwdrivers, can take revenge for the work ideally by entrainment of cakes, drinks, donuts, bagels, etc..
No one shall be liable or guarantee for any activities, we do it all for fun ONLY.

Around 18:00 the work should be completed on the cars.
It is not thrown out at 18:00, at predictable stuff but please pay attention on it.


Openen in Google Translate
 
the easiest way to do the drivers side is to move the master cylinder slightly.
If anyone has a horizontal small airgun it would take minutes.
I took an evening to do the rears and most of the day to do the fronts properly changing drop links,top mounts.
The only extra thing I bought was a suggestion from Spike;
its on a socket that twists to allow the strut to fall free or easier to refit cost around £6.

The rest is just spring clamps and a trolley jack
 
I would suggest manufacturing a spreader socket for the front. It can be made out of an old bolt. This is what it looks like if you buy it.
4121NvYIsfL._SY300_.jpg

Are you doing springs as well? The rear is really simple to replace. New bump stops has been mentioned. But the rubber seats for the rear will most probably need to be replaced. Check out no 3 on this illustration. http://vagpart.com/audi/audi-a2-a2-eu-2001-51110-suspension-shock-absorbers/
 
If you're handy with spanners, then changing shocks is relatively straight forward. As mentioned, front driver's side is a pain due to brake fluid reservoir.

You must change strut top mount bearing. The bearings in them sieze over time and will undoubtedly cause a broken coil spring if left, so renew as a matter of course. Drop links, be prepared to tackle them with angle grinder if the Allen key bolt is worn. I'd personally fit Meyle kit. Lower ARB bushes too, seeing as everything is coming out.

Couple of tips. Yes you can purchase spreader tool. I used a pin hammer end or cold chisel to upen strut for shock absorber to come out. Remember and grease new strut with engine oil to lube.

Also consider renewing strut bump stops. Rear shocks are straight forward. Be careful with coil spring compressors. Wear safety glasses and always tension evenly.
 
Have not ordered yet, was just about to order Monroe Reflex now.....then it states in the product info that they are for A2's with heavy duty chassis/sports suspension.
I think I have standard chassis/ride height on my FSI.
Will these Reflex absorbers fit to a std chassis/spring setup or do I have to go for std. Monroes? (almost same price)
With another small kid soon to arive, I do not need a stiff and sporty A2, firm is ok - have another car that requires kidney belt.

So, question, what to order:

Monroes part.nr: 23948 (rear) and G16309 (front)
or
Monroe Reflex part.nr: E1308 (rear) and E4998 (front)
 
One note about the rears, read it here somewhere but not in a main thread: it is rather easy to crossthread rear top mount bolts, so be careful and double check.

Can the brake reservoir be moved without disconnecting anything (hoses, wires etc)?
 
I went for the

Monroe Reflex part.nr: E1308 (rear) and E4998 (front)

On a SE spec car. The ride is firm but that is probably more to do with the lowered H&R Springs I've fitted.

I think the consensus is that the standard ones are for tge 1.4 petrol and the stiffer ones are for the FSI and TDI due to the extra weight.
 
kaarlisk said:
One note about the rears, read it here somewhere but not in a main thread: it is rather easy to crossthread rear top mount bolts, so be careful and double check.

Can the brake reservoir be moved without disconnecting anything (hoses, wires etc)?
Click to expand...

Yes it certainly can :)

Cheers,
 
800 pounds! Wow! I've replaced them with the yellow ones from Bilstein about a year ago while paying only 80 pounds for labor for a total cost of 550 pounds! Then, I visited a special garage and with another 300 pounds changed the fluids inside, put bigger components and compressed it 5 times to meet racing standards, all this with the best parts and professionals: 850 pounds in total! Arrange a roadtrip to Greece, do the mods and go back with the same amount of money you would pay to do all these at your local garage!

Sent from my SM-T715 using Tapatalk
 
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