Clutch going in, anything else

M

mac911rs4

Member
Hi Guys..

Thanks for the up on Eurocrats sale, ordered clutch kit this morning, arrived within one hour....bloody good service. Anyways, next question as i'm far from clued up on cars works etc....

Clutch is very high hence replacement, I could live with it, but no good for my 17 yr old son learning in. I've noticed when we purchased the car (did so blindly, no test drive) and so far, its great, but apart from clutch, we've noticed 'to a novice' that changing from 2nd to 3rd, if you pushed to try and put into gear, by accident it's gone into 1st. We've no issue with this as the gears go where they should when its second nature charing gear, but i know my sons done it once or twice, so the question being, is there any room for adjustment at all, or is it a plain and simple...it's ******ed. The one owner old lady driver from new looked after the car, but feel she may have been a little aggressive on the gears. New gearbox? ouch, serious numbers i expect, any possibilities of repair etc?.....

Also, once it's in the garage for change of clutch, anything else i should ask them to look at or change as a precautionary? No issues otherwise, but if it saves money whilst clutch is out.....may as well be considered....

As always, your comments and suggestions are much appreciated, as this rate, think i may just suggest i buy the car off my son.....Cheers, Mark.
 
On the gear changes, the gear linkages can be adjusted. When I first got mine a few months ago, I had some issues with 2nd to 3rd, ooops, 1st! This video from Dieselgeek explains it pretty well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo

On the clutch, I'm afraid I have no first hand experience. Somebody should come by soon to advise.

Hope this helps.
 
ca2n said:
On the gear changes, the gear linkages can be adjusted. When I first got mine a few months ago, I had some issues with 2nd to 3rd, ooops, 1st! This video from Dieselgeek explains it pretty well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sheTKD03hmo

On the clutch, I'm afraid I have no first hand experience. Somebody should come by soon to advise.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

When changing the clutch ALWAYS change the top hat which is the parts that the clutch release bearing slides on. It is also advisable to check the cross arm for signs of wear as it pivots on a mushroom headed bolt and either can and do wear on the bolt pivot point
Also check the slave cylinder for leaks as it is much easier to change when doing the clutch
The gear linkage cables will need aligning once the gearbox is back In The car and can make a significant improvement in gear selection
Also worth checking gear box oil for level and cleanliness change if in doubt


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Thanks Paul, I did pass on your comments re requirements of spring, top hat etc when booking the car in, will take on board your comments too re bits worth checking, much appreciated, thanks.
 
TFG said:
Are these the bits in question?:

https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-vw-5-speed-clutch-fork-repair-kit.html
Click to expand...

Yes that’s the parts. Just make sure that the cross arm as a spring clip to retain the arm to the bolt (the original Audi part does not include the clip and needs to be ordered separately which is bloody annoying when you want to get the car back together and you are held up for 2 days for a 30p clip)


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I spoke to the garage today that will be doing the clutch and they said they will look at it to see if it needs replacing. I have managed to get them to fit a LUK clutch for approx £350. The other garage was going to fit a cheap Transmech clutch for the same price or about £100 for a LUK clutch.
 
Neil50 said:
I spoke to the garage today that will be doing the clutch and they said they will look at it to see if it needs replacing. I have managed to get them to fit a LUK clutch for approx £350. The other garage was going to fit a cheap Transmech clutch for the same price or about £100 for a LUK clutch.
Click to expand...

That does not sound too bad for an LUK clutch kit fitted
Make sure they change the top hat whatever they say as the smoothness of the clutch is very much dependent on this component
The cross are and pivot bolt is more of a change it whilst the box is out as it’s a gearbox out job to change these in the future and they are less than £20 from the main dealers. You pays your money and takes your chances !!!


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Sorry for the hijack, but are the clutches on these cars hydraulic? The reason I ask is that last week I had to pump the clutch on a really cold morning to get it into gear, just like there was no fluid in the hydraulic system.

Thanks
 
Kleynie said:
Sorry for the hijack, but are the clutches on these cars hydraulic? The reason I ask is that last week I had to pump the clutch on a really cold morning to get it into gear, just like there was no fluid in the hydraulic system.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, the brake master reservoir is shared by the clutch fluid too, so check the level!!

Steve B
 
The LUK kit that I bought had the arm, hat and spring included, I bought the mushroom headed bolt from Ipswich Audi.

I also had the flywheel skimmed because mine had lots of hot spots on it that can cause judder. What I discovered after paying £90 was that new Audi flywheel is £120 so would go new again.

On reassembly, the slave failed immediately but you can get a nice Febi one for £35. I would definitely do that anyway because removing the slave is a real sod of a job. What they don’t tell you is that the slave cylinder bolts are much more accessible from the wheel arch once you’ve lowered the left hand side of the engine a bit.

This said the slave does not sit inside the bell housing like on a Saab (as I learnt to my cost) so if you don’t do it now, you won’t have to undo the whole Transmission again if it fails later.


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was the LUK kit that you bought for the 1.4 petrol ?
I got an LUK kit for the 1.4 petrol and it came with the cover, spinner plate, release bearing, cross arm, spring clip, mushroom headed bolt and top hat

The one I got for the TDI 75 only came with the cover, spinner and release bearing hence I had to get the other parts from Andrew Paige and the main dealers (who didn't tell me the sprint clip was not part of the cross arm, much to my annoyance as it was something like 35p but took another 2 days to arrive)

So, it would appear that the LUK clutch kits have different parts contents, 'maybe' depending on petrol or diesel (I'm not sure)

Interesting when I rang around all of the local parts suppliers they all stated that the cross arm was a main dealer part only, hence I was surprised when the petrol LUK clutch kit came with this part in the box
Cheers,
 
I can let you know tomorrow as Albus is booked on and they have ordered the LUK kit. I have already asked them to look at the arm at top etc. etc.
 
The garage confirmed that the Top hat, arm and spring all came with the clutch kit. This is for the 1.4 Petrol AUA
 
Neil50 said:
The garage confirmed that the Top hat, arm and spring all came with the clutch kit. This is for the 1.4 Petrol AUA
Click to expand...

That confirms my theory on the LUK clutch kits. The petrol comes as a six piece kit were as the diesel only as the three mains components
Thanks for the info
Cheers


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depronman said:
That confirms my theory on the LUK clutch kits. The petrol comes as a six piece kit were as the diesel only as the three mains components
Thanks for the info
Cheers


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Click to expand...

I take it that it is a different gearbox due to the ratios and rev range. Still, find it weird that they would not do the same parts in the kits unless there are different levels of kit. Mine was the Rep kit
 
Hi Neil, i’ve The kit being fitted....hopefully next week, mines petrol 2001 and only 3 piece kit too....very strange, your clutch being done before ours ? Let me know please, cheers, mark
 
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