Didn't work. Had enough today. Seems ridiculous this can happen, and you can't access the lock.
Deadlocked Rear Passenger Side Door
- Thread starter GMH499
- Start date
It's not in the up position as per your photo.
audifan
A2OC Donor
The UP position is unlocked. If down then either just locked or locked and deadlocked. I think when you are lifting the cam it may not be travelling all the way up due to deadlock and still blocks the door latch silver cam going full travel to open. As you have the child lock on have you tried raising the red cam as far as possible and tried to open the door from the outside door handle? I am trying to work out which pins need voltage and earth to Desafe the lock i.e. turn of the deadlock. Do you have rear electric windows or only the fronts electric?
Looking at your photo, I assumed the up position is unlocked.
Mine is in the down position. I feel it should move further than it does, but it only goes against spring pressure.
I never had the child lock facility in use.
I originally locked it via the method decribed on pages 14 and 15 of the owners handbook; moving the orange lever because the central locking wouldn't operate on this door. It was ok after, ie not being able to open it from the ouside. This should enable opening by pulling the internal handle twice. It did for a while ( time scale difficult to remember because I don't open the rear doors very often; several months between times).
This is what doesn't work any more.
Does it mean the door is deadlocked, and will only open electrically?
I haven't checked the connection on the B-post yet. I fear more broken plastic connectors!!
I have electric windows front and rear.
Beginning to despair.
Mine is in the down position. I feel it should move further than it does, but it only goes against spring pressure.
I never had the child lock facility in use.
I originally locked it via the method decribed on pages 14 and 15 of the owners handbook; moving the orange lever because the central locking wouldn't operate on this door. It was ok after, ie not being able to open it from the ouside. This should enable opening by pulling the internal handle twice. It did for a while ( time scale difficult to remember because I don't open the rear doors very often; several months between times).
This is what doesn't work any more.
Does it mean the door is deadlocked, and will only open electrically?
I haven't checked the connection on the B-post yet. I fear more broken plastic connectors!!
I have electric windows front and rear.
Beginning to despair.
audifan
A2OC Donor
OK so you did not move the lower black slot for the child locks. Instead you flicked the red cam by inserting something through the hole exposed by removing the rubber plug in the door.When you lock the door the red cam rotates down so the base of the cam rests against the top of the silver lever. The deadlock then prevents this cam rotating upwards and therefor renders the door handles inop. As the deadlock is on that is the reason that pushing up on the red cam does not make it spring into the unlocked state. As far as I can see there are two solutions to desafe this lock. One is to supply voltage to the correct pins of the lock to signal it to desafe, either by applying voltage directly to the required pins or by running wiring from the other sides lock as that is working. Also assume that you have removed the lock wiring from the lock and checked for damp etc. The second method is to remove the screw that holds the locking cam in place. Once removed the lock is no longer deadlocked and the handles should open as normal. The lock would then be removed from the door for repair or replacement. If you can get enough access to the screw by using a short bit etc then great. I do think it will be far easier and quicker to drill a small hole in the inner door skin in line with the screw big enough to allow your choice of tool to reach the screw and safely remove it, plus a slightly bigger hole would allow for slight inaccuracy in positioning the hole over the screw. The hole can be plugged or taped over when no longer needed.
My temper is frayed now; but not quite ready for those tactics. Interestingly the young mechanic at Victoria VW in Broadstairs this morning said they've been brutal in some situations.
Almost prepared to give the car away to a good home if necessary. Loads spent on quality parts so far.
audifan
A2OC Donor
Word of caution when you are going to replace the lock. The early cars (yours) does not like later locks. This will make replacing the locks far harder. For that reason alone I do not suggest destructive removal techniques. Think the change coincided with the CanBus fitment and the later type radios. Sure someone else can say exactly when the change took place. Get another lock and at worst if you do not drill a hole to remove the cam screw you can break the red cam lower end off and use the one on the replacement lock. Looking at my earlier picture the gap between the cam and silver lever is the space required to let the lock go full travel.
audifan
A2OC Donor
Have you also tried holding open the outside door handle and letting go so the handle slams shut? If the outside handle does not fully close ( let the little cable on top ) fully retract the lock will never reset itself and no matter what you do with the handles it will never open. Again before resorting to butchery I would disconnect the small cable between the outside handle and lock as that is normally where the non reset takes place.
audifan
A2OC Donor
Not even saying to drill the screw, only to drill the door skin to give you access to the screw that can then be removed with a bit and driver. The more brutal approach is to destroy the lower part of the red cam. 1st method only damage would be a hole in the door skin that you can either tape over or get a suitable plastic bung.
I think this might be my trouble, but I can't separate the plug. The 2 wire plug did but the multi pin won't split. One of the small core wires in the multi pin pulled out and has corrosion on it, making me suspicious of it all. This pin had 12volts on it.
These plugs (less wiring) do have a part number on ETKA, but whether they are available I don't know.
A used loom may be an option if I can find one.
How did you separate the plug without destroying it? Pulling the tab towards the wires hasn't released it.
I've sprayed contact cleaner over it as well as the lock itself, and latterly WD40 to try and lube the plastic plug.
If I'm doing it wrongly please tell me.
Thanks.
A few YouTube videos on removing vag connectors, try this one.
Even when you release the tab they can be difficult to release, stuck together with corrosion on the pins and old age stickiness, push and pull hard, wiggle after releasing tab.
Andy
Erlingtheelder
A2OC Donor
That’s a brilliant help. I’ve struggled like mad with them previously!!!! ????
Yeah, but as with many demo videos everything is nice and loose from several rehearsals and only cooperative candidates chosen.
Andy
That didn't move at all or look as if it could. Part of the looped end is now broken!
I thought the purple tab is do with locking the pins in the connector not releasing the connectors???
Always willing to learn
Andy
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