Door locks
- Thread starter simufly
- Start date
Teresa
Social Secretary
Do you mean it locks and unlocks (or sounds as though it does) when you turn the key in the ignition?
Mine does that sometimes, but I've not thought much of it really. I do tend to put things into the "A2 quirks" category. I have been EML free for three weeks now
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
I believe that it indicates a faulty door microswitch (as covered in the "how to" index)
The temperature may be affecting the contacts and causing it to be intermittent.
On A2s that have this there is often no other noticeable symptoms. (possible errors on VCDS include "door won't de-safe" bor similar)
Steve B
The temperature may be affecting the contacts and causing it to be intermittent.
On A2s that have this there is often no other noticeable symptoms. (possible errors on VCDS include "door won't de-safe" bor similar)
Steve B
bretti_kivi
Member
Microswitches. Definitively.
- Bret
- Bret
2work
Well Known Member
Hi All,
I recently had the central locking cycling when I inserted the key in the ignition and the door wasn't showing as open in the DIS, also not able to open the fuel flap on the button.
From reading many threads and looking through the How To's it was obvious it was a microswitch fault.
In my limited experience (only taken 1 door apart to investigate (twice)) I noticed that the small plunger part of the actual microswitch should have a rubber cover over it, this wears over time thus making the plunger not as proud as it once was and as such not reaching the part of the locking mechanism to depress it and show the door as open.
To rectify the fault I removed the microswitch assembly from the door using the How To's along with the helpful YouTube clip, unclip the actual microswitch from the assembly by pushing the metal retaining clip off, then replacing the metal clip with a piece of cardboard (trusty Corn Flake box wrapped in electrical tape) between the clip and microswitch which made it proud again. Put it all back together and has been perfect ever since.
I think this is a very satisfying fix at no cost which is very achievable for anyone with a set of tools. I did the 'repair' on the second time of removing the microswitch assembly which only took about 30 minutes from start too finish. First time was some 45 -60 minutes as I have to seperate the alloy panel (behind the door card) from the door, that black gunky glue is very messy.
If anyone is interested in having this done but not too confident with a set of tools, I would be more than happy to do this on my driveway in Coalville free of charge, the only clause would be to talk A2's for an hour.
Hope this helps someone.
Kind regards,
Tom
I recently had the central locking cycling when I inserted the key in the ignition and the door wasn't showing as open in the DIS, also not able to open the fuel flap on the button.
From reading many threads and looking through the How To's it was obvious it was a microswitch fault.
In my limited experience (only taken 1 door apart to investigate (twice)) I noticed that the small plunger part of the actual microswitch should have a rubber cover over it, this wears over time thus making the plunger not as proud as it once was and as such not reaching the part of the locking mechanism to depress it and show the door as open.
To rectify the fault I removed the microswitch assembly from the door using the How To's along with the helpful YouTube clip, unclip the actual microswitch from the assembly by pushing the metal retaining clip off, then replacing the metal clip with a piece of cardboard (trusty Corn Flake box wrapped in electrical tape) between the clip and microswitch which made it proud again. Put it all back together and has been perfect ever since.
I think this is a very satisfying fix at no cost which is very achievable for anyone with a set of tools. I did the 'repair' on the second time of removing the microswitch assembly which only took about 30 minutes from start too finish. First time was some 45 -60 minutes as I have to seperate the alloy panel (behind the door card) from the door, that black gunky glue is very messy.
If anyone is interested in having this done but not too confident with a set of tools, I would be more than happy to do this on my driveway in Coalville free of charge, the only clause would be to talk A2's for an hour.
Hope this helps someone.
Kind regards,
Tom
wilco184
Member of the year 2015
A scan with VCDS should definitely show a fault code. What are you using to scan the car?
Regards,
Matt.
2work
Well Known Member
Hi Simufly,
This is just a guess. If you have DIS fitted, open all 4 doors and the one (or more) that still show closed is the problem. If you don't have DIS open each door individually to see if it activates the interior lighting. Close the door and wait for the lights to go out before opening the next door. The door(s) which don't make the interior lights illuminate will be the problem.
Hopefully there is better way which someone with more experience will share, but in principle this should point you in the right direction.
Kind regards,
Tom
This is just a guess. If you have DIS fitted, open all 4 doors and the one (or more) that still show closed is the problem. If you don't have DIS open each door individually to see if it activates the interior lighting. Close the door and wait for the lights to go out before opening the next door. The door(s) which don't make the interior lights illuminate will be the problem.
Hopefully there is better way which someone with more experience will share, but in principle this should point you in the right direction.
Kind regards,
Tom
depronman
A2OC Donor
I am going to throw in my experience on this one, as I have had two A2 worth of locks apart to fix these sort of problems, and none of mine were the micro switches, indeed I checked out the micro switches with a multi meters and the switches were OK
The actual problem was the solder joints where the legs from the connector solder to the circuit board. Once the lock assy is out of the car take some pictures of it so you know how to re assemble it (rather important unless you are good at jigsaw puzzles without the picture) strip down the electrical half of the lock and reflow all of the solder joints from the connector to circuit board ideally with leaded solder.
What happens over time is the wiring harness to the door lock moves, this pushes and pulls on the connector which causes it to flex and this cracks the solder joints mainly because the legs are quite thick and the original flow soldering which used lead free solder did not create a good soldered joint (too little heat due to the thick legs of the connector) this coupled with the brittle lead free solder and 10+ years of vibration results in failing joints, which is worse in the cold weather as the joints contract.
It takes 5 mins to reflow the joints, unfortunately a couple of houts to get the lock assy out of the car door
Cheers,
The actual problem was the solder joints where the legs from the connector solder to the circuit board. Once the lock assy is out of the car take some pictures of it so you know how to re assemble it (rather important unless you are good at jigsaw puzzles without the picture
) strip down the electrical half of the lock and reflow all of the solder joints from the connector to circuit board ideally with leaded solder.What happens over time is the wiring harness to the door lock moves, this pushes and pulls on the connector which causes it to flex and this cracks the solder joints mainly because the legs are quite thick and the original flow soldering which used lead free solder did not create a good soldered joint (too little heat due to the thick legs of the connector) this coupled with the brittle lead free solder and 10+ years of vibration results in failing joints, which is worse in the cold weather as the joints contract.
It takes 5 mins to reflow the joints, unfortunately a couple of houts to get the lock assy out of the car door
Cheers,
I am going to throw in my experience on this one, as I have had two A2 worth of locks apart to fix these sort of problems, and none of mine were the micro switches, indeed I checked out the micro switches with a multi meters and the switches were OK
The actual problem was the solder joints where the legs from the connector solder to the circuit board. Once the lock assy is out of the car take some pictures of it so you know how to re assemble it (rather important unless you are good at jigsaw puzzles without the picture
What happens over time is the wiring harness to the door lock moves, this pushes and pulls on the connector which causes it to flex and this cracks the solder joints mainly because the legs are quite thick and the original flow soldering which used lead free solder did not create a good soldered joint (too little heat due to the thick legs of the connector) this coupled with the brittle lead free solder and 10+ years of vibration results in failing joints, which is worse in the cold weather as the joints contract.
It takes 5 mins to reflow the joints, unfortunately a couple of houts to get the lock assy out of the car door
Cheers,
Ive a few faulty locks ive replaced with good ones and did once take one apart but found the circuit board was covered in a kind of sealer , thats where i gave up as looked a nightmear to remove this gunk and clean the circuit board so i could resolder the joints...
How did you remove this sealer that covers the circuit board ?