Driver's Door Window Closing (or not)

T

TFG

A2OC Donor
I'm having a bit of a problem getting my driver's door window to behave itself. When it closes, it hits top then backs off about 50mm or so. I've read the many threads on here about resetting the limit sensors and that worked perfectly for the other three doors, but not the driver's one. Sometimes I can get it to work properly on the one-touch switch with the engine running (after a reset), but if I leave the car overnight it's back to behaving badly the following day.

As far as can can tell the battery is in good shape. The car starts very readily - just a quick flick of the key is all that's needed, every time, no matter how cold it is. All the other electrickery is in good working order.

The only thing I've noticed that's different (other than it not closing properly :) ), is that it 'hits bottom' on the one-touch with quite a clonk, compared to the other windows. Is it possible that something is out of kilter so far that the limit sensors can't function correctly? Or is this a CCCU playing up?
 
Nice cheap try for you...spray some silicone spray in the window rubber runners(I find Mr sheen or any other furniture polish does the trick) it sounds like the anti trap is kicking in when it gets to the top, quick spray and see what happens then.
 
Had a very similar issue with my car recently. Replaced the BATTERY IN THE REMOTE and everything back to normal. If you have more than one key change them all.
 
Thanks for the contributions so far.

I've tried changing the battery in the remote for a new one - no improvement.

I've liberally applied dry-lube PTFE spray to the window guide channels - no improvement.

In trying the several permutations of window reset procedure that are recommended on the forum, I managed at one point to have the window only respond to the 'down' press. It wouldn't go back up; then tried slight sideways pressing on the button, thinking I may have a dodgy switch - no change. Fortunately the window responded to 'up' after a few minutes and I managed, with several prods, to get it closed.

As the car is not garaged, I've left it at that for now, but I'm starting to suspect a dodgy window motor. A replacement is on the way, so time will tell.
 
Before you pull out the window motor. First make sure you have the code for your stereo. Disconnect the battery, both terminals and touch the 2 car leads together for a second to completely discharge any residual voltage. Check the voltage of the car battery and if low recharge. Reconnect the battery terminals. This frequently "resets" the electrics try the remote and the windows.
 
Yes - I tried that the previous weekend. I thought it might have been down to a dodgy battery, but it's pretty new and a proper Varta one. I put it on a recon cycle on my Ctek charger overnight and I was back to a solid '8' on the readout so I think the battery is OK, but it didn't make any difference.

Just before the window motor decided not to play ball at all, it was stopping and backing off (as though it had hit something) when it was only halfway up it's travel, which it wasn't doing previously. Changing the window motor is relatively cheap, so it's worth a try.
 
I think it is more likely the door controller than the window motor. What happens when you open and close the windows from the remote?
 
It is got the impression you were just going to swap the motor part not the whole assembly. Make sure you get a front right one as they are handed.
 
Can you get the window to go all the way up by flicking the switch i.e. not using one touch open/close? If you can do that then while the car is running lift and hold each up button one at a time on the drivers door panel. Do this for a second or two there should be a small clunk noise, you may also notice the lights dim at the same time. That is how I set the up position, they say to do the same with fully down, although I have never found the need to as up works for me. If that does not work and you can get the window up on the remote, then start from that point.
 
Yes - that's what I've been doing (several times) but in the most recent attempts, as described above, the window stopped responding to 'up' presses altogether. Originally the one-touch 'up' button pull would make the glass travel up to the top of the frame, then automatically back off about 50mm. With recent repeated attempts at getting it to reset using the method you've described, that stopped happening and the glass would stop only half way up the frame and then back off. Then it stopped responding to 'up' button pulls at all - but would respond to 'down' presses. Fortunately after I'd left it alone for a few minutes, I was able to edge the window shut.

The battery was disconnected for several months last year while I was doing various refurbishment jobs. After reconnecting, the other windows reset as expected (I did the cycling three times over for each window, just to make sure) and have been fine ever since but the driver's one has remained a bit flaky. Of late, that's got worse.

The window motor I've bought is 8Z0 959 802 A
 
Did this ever get fixed? I have a very similar issue with the drivers window too.
Well, tried a quick squirt of multi surface polish and now working! Thats got to be the quickest, cheapest and easiet fix I've ever done! :cool:
 
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