Dropping the sump on a 1.4 AUA

When refitting bolts like these, is there a precaution that can be taken to minimise the bimetallic/galvanic action, such as anti-seize compounds?
Mac.

Certainly. Audi treat the bolts prior to initial installation with a process that leaves a green finish, and generally that works well. See this discussion:
 
None of those. Triple square, possibly unique to the German auto industry, and discussed here:
Steve,

Aren't you confusing Torx bits and spline bits? Torx bits are always 6-point. Spline (or XZN?) bits are 12-point. No such thing as 12-point Torx.

RAB
 
I'm not. @PlasticMac may well be.
Not confused. I didn't know, that's why I asked.
I saw allen bolts mentioned early on, and that, to me, meant hex socket bolts. My concern was that if they were anything other than hex socket head, a hex key would either damage the head, or itself be damaged (probably both), depending on relative hardness.
So, i thought it was a good idea to establish exactly what they are, so anyone reading this in the future would select the correct tool.
Mac.
 
To be clear, a good quality long headed allen T-bar, which is the correct tool, was used. The bolts are round headed Allen bolts and do not have a 10mm hex head. The head of the bolt is positioned in such a way that a 5mm allen headed socket will not fit as it is impacted by the gearbox.

I really do appreciate the advice, but not when it’s assumed that I’ve used the wrong tools for the job. I’m aware that drilling the head of the bolt is certainly not the ideal solution, but is the lesser of 2 evils (the other being to remove the gearbox) in my opinion.
Yes if it has a ball end that is the correct tool, sorry if i came accross as assumimg you had used the wrong tool, sadly you were simply unlucky!

Best of luck

Howey
 
Looking at your picture wondering just when it had an oil change! That is a mess, hope it all clean out. Can you see any issues with the block? Did you find any broken dipstick ends in there? What condition is the crankcase breather system in?

Glad the sump did finally come off, did the offending bolt get drilled out?
 
Glad the job is all going well, and well done on getting that bolt out.

Like Howey, I must apologise for appearing critical; like he says you were simply unlucky. And I've enormous respect for anyone prepared to work on the largely alloy VAG engines such as the AUA, rather than getting it sorted by a professional.

I've been looking at your photos, and am intrigued by the one of the broken bolt. Are you able to clarify whether or not it is steel? It may of course be alloy, although the blue finish at the end suggests that it is indeed treated steel. It would be good to know definitively for future reference.
 
Sorry for the slow reply, I’ve been getting her ready for an MOT, it’s been putting up quite a fight.

I don’t think it’s got a stellar service history. The block looked okay… ish… there was a dipstick end, I’m going to fit the polo dipstick and blank the service hatch filler and dipstick.

No idea on the condition of the crankcase vent system, I’ll have to do a bit of research as I’ve not dealt with it on the A2 just yet.

There was some worrying scoring from the crankshaft counterweights on the webs of the block, which is a bit strange. I think it might be from a build up of varnish which was then dislodged by the engine flush. There could be float on the crankshaft, but I doubt that as it runs nicely now and either way, I’ll soon find out when it drives.

A good example of why servicing is important.

The bolts were most definitely high tensile steel, I wouldn’t expect anything else to be quite honest.
 
Yes if it has a ball end that is the correct tool, sorry if i came accross as assumimg you had used the wrong tool, sadly you were simply unlucky!

Best of luck

Howey
No I probably over reacted, I was having a bad day with that A2!!!
 
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