EGR valve / oxygen sensor / throttle body

Riba

Riba

Member
Ireland
After procastrinating long enough I armed myself with tools and went on to try and sort out the oxygen sensor and EGR valve which are triggering the engine check light since I got the car (1.4 BBY engine).

At first it seemed impossible to wiggle out that pipe connecting the EGR valve and throttle body and amazingly enough it can be pulled out. Hopefully I'll be able to put it back in. ;)

To get the oxygen sensor I had to remove the housing connecting EGR valve and engine, after that I had little trouble getting the sensor out, I actually expected more trouble there.

Since I already got all of that out I decided to get the throttle body out for inspection, and sweet jay-sus, it needs some love. Not sure what's up with the oily residue on the airbox side (?). Next step is to arm myself with generous amount of throttle body cleaner and roll up my sleeves.

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Disgusting. You should be ashamed:D
The oily residue is normal and just 'misting' build up over time.
Just get normal brake/clutch cleaner from somewhere like Eurocarparts (£2.89 600ml) Use an old toohbrush and also a little wire wool or Emery cloth for the mating surfaces and all will be fine
 
Ouch, now that is dirty :).
Do not forget to adapt the throttle body after installing everything together.
Also, have you bought the seals? Or are you planning to reuse the old ones? Which I would not recommend.
 
Took a little holiday break and now getting ready to travel back and put everything back together. Is there a list of gasket/seals part numbers so I can give a call to a local dealer to have them ready? Thanks!

Edit:
Found them here!
 
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Can anyone share the torque values for 17, 31 & 33 bolts on the picture below? Thanks!

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Throttle body cleaned but I have a question... my understanding is that it is possible to manually open the flap if you do it gently. I tried but it wouldn't move so I decided to leave it. Is that normal or I just had to put more force in?
 
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I normally use diesel to clean this, cheaper & effective plus it lubricates the moving parts.
 
Riba said:
Throttle body cleaned but I have a question... my understanding is that it is possible to manually open the flap if you do it gently. I tried but it wouldn't move so I decided to leave it. Is that normal or I just had to put more force in?
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Far as I remember you can move it by hand, if you apply enough force, but it's not recommended at all, as it's a fly by wire TB, so you may end up damaging something. Just make sure you got new seals and adaptation goes OK, I'd put old seals back before and had eml come on with too-lean fault code, changing it to new ones had solved that issue.
 
Both rubber and metal seals are replaced, but I have to wait for the metal one for the EGR pipe as they did not have it in stock. So far so good.
 
So cleaning did not help with the EGR valve, it still faults.

What is the best way going forward? As I understand cheap ones on the market are not worth the money, so should I go for expensive replacement?
 
I got an OEM EGR valve and gaskets, came to £275.00 I gave up with the cleaning and was advised by a so called specialist to replace the valve completely, hopefully put an end to the EML light.
 
Riba said:
So cleaning did not help with the EGR valve, it still faults.

What is the best way going forward? As I understand cheap ones on the market are not worth the money, so should I go for expensive replacement?
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Did your the adaptation go "OK"?
It took me quite a few tries to get it done.

What fault codes did you get?
Also did you manage to fit the pipe back correctly?
 
Sylvester said:
Did your the adaptation go "OK"?
It took me quite a few tries to get it done.

What fault codes did you get?
Also did you manage to fit the pipe back correctly?
Click to expand...
Yeah, everything is back and torqued properly. Tried 3-4 times with VCDS but the top voltage value never goes above 1 V and expected is higher than that according to VCDS so I suspect it does not open fully and the adaptation ends with failure. Guess it is time to accept defeat and start looking for a replacement...hopefully for less than Sylvester mentioned. 😒
 
Riba said:
Yeah, everything is back and torqued properly. Tried 3-4 times with VCDS but the top voltage value never goes above 1 V and expected is higher than that according to VCDS so I suspect it does not open fully and the adaptation ends with failure. Guess it is time to accept defeat and start looking for a replacement...hopefully for less than Sylvester mentioned. 😒
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You mean Axit mentioned it :) But yes, when the voltage is low, chances are it's not working anymore. You'd try getting a used one from the market place, even if it's dirty a tad, you'd know it's working.
 
I stand corrected! :)

There might be hope though. It seems a battery is a bit depleted after the car was sitting for 3 weeks as it didn't have enough juice to crank the engine. As it came with puny 45Ah battery, I'm getting a bigger new one tomorrow and fingers crossed that it resolves the EGR issue. It would pay for itself. :)
 
That might explain the issue, if the voltage is below 12v, less than 11.5v doesn't even crank the engine, the adaptation will fail, no matter what. The A2 battery should be 75AH, so 45AH doesn't suffice either. Change the battery, Mltgarage, he's a member too, got a YT video about it, if you need info on removing the front panel.
 
Update: after replacing the battery with the proper one, the EGR error is gone. Engine light off, all faults cleared!
 
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