Finding and preparing a new to me AMF

From my experience failures have mainly occurred when this stud has been changed as some belt kits (ina and SKF I think) had them in the kit. I have never changed one as I felt failure from doing so was a higher potential than reusing existing.
New 2.0 tdi engines (2016) supplied from well skoda but VAG essentially came without the stud, fitting a new stud was tight going in, I mean tight in that it felt it may shear so much so I questioned it but it's apparently how they are. Sometimes removing the old stud from the kaput engine resulted in it shearing flush in the head, that would be a total nightmare if the stud was just been changed for the sake of it but may not apply to our engines in fairness!
 
Thank you @Bordos I understand all TDi heads are the same. Probably all M10 * M8 studs were fitted in the factory except for perhaps some of the very earliest PD engines?

@Howey I agree, I will not be removing that stud. Too much trouble. I was only considering removing it if it was a modification and not factory. I would have wanted to check somebody else's thread cutting.
 
I have replaced several TDI timings (VP and PD) - always replaced this stud without any problems.
On the other hand this is not a stretch one so nothing bad should happen as long as you use the correct torque.
 
In no way I am saying it cannot nor has not ever been replaced without any issues, only that for the ones that I have been told had failed they had almost ever time from memory been replaced. It's personal choice in my opinion. Either way I don't recall anyone on here in the last 4 years stating they had one fail on them?
 
I conclude from discussions here and from what I have read elsewhere.
M10 * M8 studs were fitted in the factory.
Failure of the stud is most likely to be caused by a replacement being badly fitted.
Studs can be replaced, torqued correctly and are reliable in service.
There have been no recorded failures on a 3PD engine
I suspect the later is due to a 3PD having one less set of valves and one less injector for the cam to drive. Logic would suggest a 3PD sees 25% torque at the cam pulley and therefore 25% less tension in the belt compared to a 4PD. Whatever the reason I have concluded a factory stud is dependable, providing the pulley is torqued correctly, on a 3 PD.
 
philward said:
I conclude from discussions here and from what I have read elsewhere.
M10 * M8 studs were fitted in the factory.
Failure of the stud is most likely to be caused by a replacement being badly fitted.
Studs can be replaced, torqued correctly and are reliable in service.
There have been no recorded failures on a 3PD engine
I suspect the later is due to a 3PD having one less set of valves and one less injector for the cam to drive. Logic would suggest a 3PD sees 25% torque at the cam pulley and therefore 25% less tension in the belt compared to a 4PD. Whatever the reason I have concluded a factory stud is dependable, providing the pulley is torqued correctly, on a 3 PD.
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Mine was changed at 197,000 & is still in situ at 299,980 đź‘Ť
 
At long last got the AMF out of the back of the Merc and mounted it on my engine stand. The lifting eyes, just out of the image are classic mini lifting eyes. Made handling the engine very easy, simply put a metal bar through and lift.

IMG_0857.JPG


Was it @CrispyEdd that expressed an interest in the stand? It makes working on an engine so easy. I turned it over to fully drain coolant.

IMG_0858.JPG



While it was there the sump came off and so did the sump baffle, surprisingly in one piece too

IMG_0859.JPG


Pleased with the stand :cool:
 
In the warm now ready to be transformed to a like new engine! Any dip stick ends in the sump? What was the engine stand you went for? Can you show how it bokts and what bolts you needed? Cheers
 
I'm keen on this would love to know how to measure this and choose head gasket etc as I have an amf lump on my drive awaiting just this treatment! Great stuff
 
Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place in my manual but I can't find anything from an Audi source relating piston protrusion to gasket thickness, (read this through to the end, it is far too easy to order the wrong gasket).

Found this on a VAG forum, can anybody confirm it or point me to Audi data?

1 hole is for piston protrusion of .81 to .9mm, gasket is 1.53mm thick.
2 hole is for piston protrusion of .91 to 1mm, gasket is 1.57mm thick.
3 hole is for piston protrusion of 1.01 to 1.1mm, gasket is 1.61mm thick.

Thank you.

Edit, thought I would check AutoDoc as they provide plenty of data. I get different numbers

Elring 1 hole.jpg


Elring 2 hole.jpg


Elring 3 hole.jpg


Edit 2, it gets worse, 7Zap lists different gaskets of the same thickness for different engines. Some are different thickness.

7Zap A2 head gasket.jpg


Anybody in the know?

Edit 3, found the Audi data:

A2 head gasket.jpg
 
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CrispyEdd said:
I'm keen on this would love to know how to measure this and choose head gasket etc as I have an amf lump on my drive awaiting just this treatment! Great stuff
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My understanding is that the gasket must be replaced with the same thickness as the original one that was removed (determined by punched holes in the tab) & head should not be skimmed !
 
kp 115 said:
My understanding is that the gasket must be replaced with the same thickness as the original one that was removed (determined by punched holes in the tab) & head should not be skimmed !
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Ive read this before buts urely you can skim the head and add the height taken off onto the original gasket and use the thicker gasket, hence the dots tell you the starting thickness? All of this is for correct compression and distance from piston top top to injector?
 
CrispyEdd said:
Ive read this before buts urely you can skim the head and add the height taken off onto the original gasket and use the thicker gasket, hence the dots tell you the starting thickness? All of this is for correct compression and distance from piston top top to injector?
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I think you can skim a diesel head but the manual says not to. I'll explain when I have thought through the protrusion to gasket to engine relationship. If I hadn't looked into it I almost certainly would have ordered the wrong gasket.
 
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philward said:
I think you can skim a diesel head but the manual says not to. I'll explain when I have thought through the protrusion to gasket to engine relationship. If I hadn't looked into it I almost certainly would have ordered the wrong gasket.
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If the cylinder head is flat according to specifications it does not need to be „corrected” (sorry I do know now the right English word for this machining operation to make the sealing surface of the head flat).
In diesel engines the cylinder head usually need to be corrected - and in this case you have to measure pistons in TDC and select the seal thickness accordingly.
 
philward said:
Time to clean everything. I don’t like my own dirt and really don’t like somebody else's. Also if it is clean I’m less likely to get dirt in the oil and fuel ways.
Clean enough to measure protrusion:


View attachment 116332
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Not sure if its just the image, but the bores look very shiny/glazed. Are you going to re-hone them or are they OK ?
 
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