For TheSpringfield

Skipton01

Skipton01

Admin Team
Hi Martin,

As promised, below are the diagrams you requested. In addition, bleeding the brakes is a 2 man job ideally: park up on a flat area and take off the bonnet, to enable access to the brake reservoir. Whilst one person pumps and holds the brake pedal depressed, the other person opens and closes the bleed nipples on the calipers, preferably with a tube attached to catch fluid as it is expelled.

Do each caliper in turn until fresh fluid comes through, then move on to the next.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Thanks Skipton,

The fuel filter is a lot clearer in my head now but I'm still unsure of the brake bleeding process.

Is there a bleed valve specifically for the clutch slave cylinder? Does the clutch slave cylinder supply brake fluid directly to the calipers and if so does that mean you can blead the clutch slave cylinder by bleeding all the calipers?

Sorry about this, but my slowly expanding mechanical knowledge does not quite extend to the braking system - yet!

Thanks,

M
 
The clutch system is something I've yet to work on, but from the manual, I understand that the brake reservoir supplies both the brake master cylinder and the clutch master cylinder.

However, to bleed the clutch system, you must use the point shown in the diagram (right click on the diagram and select open in a new window to get it full size). Using the brake bleed nipples will only bleed the brake circuit up to the master cylinder and NOT the clutch system.

If I have got this wrong, I'm sure that someone (Spike in all probability!) will correct this later on.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Thanks Skipton,

I think I grasp the proceedings thus far. Would you happen to know how to bleed the master brake cylinder and the reservoir?

Also do you know if the hose clips for the fuel filter hoses are re-useable?

regards,
M
 
Last edited:
You shouldn't bleed the brake reservoir, it is there only to provide a supply to the brake and clutch circuits.

To bleed the brake SYSTEM (including the master cylinder), just open and close each bleed nipple as previously described, until the brake pedal becomes solid at the end of its travel.

The clips are definitely re-useable.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Thanks,

As I now understand from the technical instructions you passed on to me I will need to, in sequential order:
  • Firstly, fill brake fluid reservoir to 'maximum' as stated in the manual excerpt
  • Bleed the clutch slave cylinder as described
  • Bleed each caliper as described by yourself

From this point, will the brake fluid filter through from the brake fluid reservoir to the clutch and braking systems only when I turn the ignition on? Because I remember you saying that by pressing the brake with the nipple open, only the brake master cylinder and the calipers will empty. So presumably the brake fluid reservoir will remain full until some other step is concluded. Unless the clutch master cylinder will take fluid from the reservoir during the bleeding process?

Regards,
M
 
What are you trying to achieve? If you want to empty the entire hydraulic circuit, just take out a bleed nipple completely and leave the system to drain.

If the aim is to remove sponginess (trapped air) in the brake system, just a simple bleed proceedure as I described will do.

One thing to not though: when the first person pumps the brake pedal and then holds it depressed, the nipple should be locked closed. Only when the pedal is pressed inshould the nipple be opened. There will be a spurt of fluid and the brake pedal will go further down to the carpet. The pedal should be held in the position until the nipple is closed again, otherwise air will enter the system.

Continue in this way until the pedal is firm and/or the fluid is changed. You should not need to change the clutch fluid as you do the brake fluid (every 2 years) because it will benefit from the brake fluid change!

Cheers,

Mike
 
Hi,

Thanks for you reply. The aim is to change the brake fluid in accordance with the manual recommendation that the brake fluid be changed every two years. It is currently overdue this change, according to the service records.

My understanding, from reading posts on this site, is that the brake fluid attracts moisture over time and becomes less effective. Spike recommended that I bleed the clutch master cylinder and the calipers and that was it as far as bleeding was concerned.

I'm far from being an expert by any definition of the term but from what I gather, the fluid remaining in the reservoir and the brake master cylinder will be old fluid and therefore may need changed. Unless the fluid in these areas does not attract moisture? If it does though, then what's the point in mixing new fluid in with old?

Thanks,

M
 
Ahh, I see!

Well, start by bleeding the clutch master cylinder, as shown in the first post and keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir - when it gets to the bottom, put in fresh and then draw it off again from the clutch MC until it has virtually drained again - that way, you're pretty assured of having new fluid in the clutch system.

Then, do the same thing for each caliper, drain the brake reservoir, refill and drain again. Now you know that each caliper has new fluid in and because the brake MC is in between the calipers and the reservoir, that is automatically done too!

Sounds a faff and it is, but the fluid is cheap enough (max £10 for 1 litre) and as you can't really store unused brake fluid for any length of time (yes, it does absorb water from the air and becomes useless at stopping you), you might as well use it all and be sure.

Cheers,

Mike
 
Skipton01 said:
Ahh, I see!

Well, start by bleeding the clutch master cylinder, as shown in the first post and keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir - when it gets to the bottom, put in fresh and then draw it off again from the clutch MC until it has virtually drained again - that way, you're pretty assured of having new fluid in the clutch system.

Then, do the same thing for each caliper, drain the brake reservoir, refill and drain again. Now you know that each caliper has new fluid in and because the brake MC is in between the calipers and the reservoir, that is automatically done too!

Sounds a faff and it is, but the fluid is cheap enough (max £10 for 1 litre) and as you can't really store unused brake fluid for any length of time (yes, it does absorb water from the air and becomes useless at stopping you), you might as well use it all and be sure.

Cheers,

Mike
Click to expand...


I see! It's much clearer in my head now. Thank you. I'm not certain how much fluid I'll need for this, Spike detailed 1.5 litres but I'll get another bottle in case.

One other thing I have just rememberred: My fuel filter has three connections - Two for the fuel hoses and the one "regulating valve with fuel pipes connected."

From the earlier pictures and explanation of your fuel filter change, I have ascertained that the fuel in and out lines require clamping to prevent leaking and air locks. I have since purchased 2 hose clamps for this purpose but I'm wondering if the pipes on either side of the regulating valve will also require clamping?

many thanks,
M
 
Hi Martin
Mike has covered everything really but here's a few extra comments -

As indicated the clutch slave cyl and brakes are fed from the same reservoir. If the clutch is not bled through with fresh fluid first, the old stuff in the pipes could contaminate the new fluid. Ideally you should first suck out the old fluid from the brake reservoir, fill it with fresh then bleed the clutch slave cyl by pumping the clutch pedal. Lock off the bleed nipple then start on the brakes.
(A friendly vet may give /sell you a big animal syringe for draining the reservoir- used with a bit of plastic tube and not a needle)

Note the brake reservoir must be kept topped up at all times so it NEVER runs dry during the bleeding process.

Its a bit 'trial and error' but it may help to have the engine running during the bleeding process assuming you don't have a pressure bleeding tool.

Once finished, pump the brake and clutch pedals a few times and be happy that everything feels ok before driving off.

Fuel Filter
----------
I found the only way to change the early filter was to disconnect the hoses at the quick connectors plus one hose clip then remove the whole filter head and can assy. Some residual fuel will drain out but it does not try and empty the main fuel tank. The filter is hidden from view so you need to remove the panel in front of the nearside back wheel and some of the heat shileding for access
Once removed the circlip can be extracted and the fuel connector removed from the can. Make a note of how the circlip is fitted and routing of the hose connections first.
I found the only way to seat the connector on the new filter can was to lubricate the O.ring with fuel, turn it upside down on a clean flat surface and push the can onto the connector.
Don't bother trying to prime the new filter with fuel as it seems to make little difference to starting.

Cheers Spike
 
2 clamps will be enough - the pipes into and out of the pre-heating valve don't need removing and it's just the 2 pipes into the main body of the filter that need isolating.

As it says, pre-fill the new filter with fuel to avoid fuel locks and make starting easier too.

Cheers,

Mike
 
thespringfield said:
Thanks,

Is the clutch slave cylinder bleeding valve underneath the car?

Regards,

M
Click to expand...

No, Access is from above.
One of Mike's diagrams shows the clutch slave cylinder next to the gearchange cables(with springs) The Arrow A shows the bleed pipe connected to the bleed nipple.

Cheers Spike
 
Hi and thanks for all the info,

Got some of the jobs done yesterday - Oil, air and pollen filter.

Any ideas how to get the hose clips off the fuel filter hoses without damaging them? Regulator hose seems to have a release pin of some sort but other two hoses I just don't know how to get them off.

Thanks,
M
 
That's the fuel filter changed. It is a tricky job but equipped with the advice from Skipton and Spike it was by no means an advanced feat.

If you are a mechanical amateur like me and are thinking about changing your pre 2002 fuel filter then the main points which I can raise from my experience this morning and from the advice procured from the forum hierarchy are:

  • Follow instructions from Skipton's workshop diagram (on this thread I think)
  • Buy some hose clip pliers
  • Have WD40 or similar lubricant available in order to assist in freeing the hoses from the filter
  • Take a pen and paper and note down: A. Which hose connects to which pipe, and B. The routing of the circlip that holds the regulator hoses in place
  • I used a washing up basin and this prevented diesel pouring onto the ground. The diesel did not shoot out in any copious amounts, just dribbled out a little.
  • Allow plenty time and cover up to protect yourself from diesel spillage

I never 'primed' the new filter at all and the engine started immediately on the first turn of the key. I didn't leave any time between finishing the job and starting the car, mainly because the instructions on the old filter said just to start it straight away. I think the most useful tip is the one about noting the connections down on paper.

Good luck if you are going ahead with it. I found it frustrating at times but by planning thoroughly and sticking at it I managed to do it. Trust me, if I can do it then anyone can!

Many thanks again to Skipton and Spike for their invaluable advice, without which the job would have been intolerably frustrating.

M
 
I recommend a simple tire pressure bleeding tool, like the one in the attached files. It makes it a simple one man job. Just connect the end of the hose to your tire and the other one to your brake reservoir. Then open the nipple and let the fluid/air out. Reduce tire pressure to about 1 bar or 15 PSI. Watch the fluid level...
 
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