justin-20V
Member
Hi all, just thought I'd add a few pictures & comments on changing the handbrake cables. The Forum (and Rick for helping supply these...) has been a great help and should definitely be appreciated by us all.
I changed mine a while back and had intended to do a full write up, but alas time has not been kind. A few pictures attached anyhow as this shows the layout for anyone not familiar (or those debating whether they need to buy a cable).
My cable was almost rusted through on the right hand side (in front of the fuel tank) and was definitely a 'save' prior to the mot. The front part of the cable is an odd design to say the least, but to be fair to Audi, both this and the rear cables on mine were the originals - anything that lasts 20 years can't be so bad...
A few quick comments:-
- A fiddly job, but nothing too difficult so allow time !
- My right hand cable was seized solid in the retaining bracket (picture 4). I had to unbolt and lower the fuel tank a fraction to get a socket on the bracket to enable this to be removed. A bit of 'persuasion' was required, but I got the bracket to release the cable ferrule in the end.
- I bent my exhaust head shield out of the way as the fixings were damaged anyway - the front handbrake cable will then pull through from underneath once you have disconnected the pin/clip at the handbrake lever. Use string in the pin hole as mentioned previously by other members. Once removed, attach the string to the new cable and pull it back through !
- I used ATE cables from Autodoc as they are an OE brand and fitted perfectly (both cables the same on my 2002 model). I decided to change the drums/shoes/cylinders at the same time as you need to remove these to disconnect the cables at the wheel ends, but obviously not a necessity. You can also just replace the front section of the handbrake cable on its own, but unless the rears have been changed previously I think it'd be a false economy.
My handbrake feels great now - it would definitely have failed the mot, so make sure you check yours if you can. Car ramps are the safest way of having a quick look if you have them.
I was a glutton for punishment so then went on to change the A/C G263 temp sensor whilst some of the trim was out - doable but not fun, comments for another day...
Hope the info/pics help a little.
I changed mine a while back and had intended to do a full write up, but alas time has not been kind. A few pictures attached anyhow as this shows the layout for anyone not familiar (or those debating whether they need to buy a cable).
My cable was almost rusted through on the right hand side (in front of the fuel tank) and was definitely a 'save' prior to the mot. The front part of the cable is an odd design to say the least, but to be fair to Audi, both this and the rear cables on mine were the originals - anything that lasts 20 years can't be so bad...
A few quick comments:-
- A fiddly job, but nothing too difficult so allow time !
- My right hand cable was seized solid in the retaining bracket (picture 4). I had to unbolt and lower the fuel tank a fraction to get a socket on the bracket to enable this to be removed. A bit of 'persuasion' was required, but I got the bracket to release the cable ferrule in the end.
- I bent my exhaust head shield out of the way as the fixings were damaged anyway - the front handbrake cable will then pull through from underneath once you have disconnected the pin/clip at the handbrake lever. Use string in the pin hole as mentioned previously by other members. Once removed, attach the string to the new cable and pull it back through !
- I used ATE cables from Autodoc as they are an OE brand and fitted perfectly (both cables the same on my 2002 model). I decided to change the drums/shoes/cylinders at the same time as you need to remove these to disconnect the cables at the wheel ends, but obviously not a necessity. You can also just replace the front section of the handbrake cable on its own, but unless the rears have been changed previously I think it'd be a false economy.
My handbrake feels great now - it would definitely have failed the mot, so make sure you check yours if you can. Car ramps are the safest way of having a quick look if you have them.
I was a glutton for punishment so then went on to change the A/C G263 temp sensor whilst some of the trim was out - doable but not fun, comments for another day...
Hope the info/pics help a little.
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