hard gear selection after jdd gearbox swap

T

turbo mandrake

Member
hey guys, ive got the jdd box in the a2 at last, got it all back together but have this problem, going into first is fine, going from first to second is hard, second to third is hard, third to fourth to fifth is fine, reverse is fine, new oil, new clutch, done clutch bleed, fluid topped up, any ideas
 
turbo mandrake said:
hey guys, ive got the jdd box in the a2 at last, got it all back together but have this problem, going into first is fine, going from first to second is hard, second to third is hard, third to fourth to fifth is fine, reverse is fine, new oil, new clutch, done clutch bleed, fluid topped up, any ideas
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How did you space the box on the top mounting
 
Sounds like you need to make a slight adjustment to the gear cable connectors on top of the selector. Sometimes a really subtle movement of the piece that clips onto the end of the cable suffices to get the gears changing sweetly again - I had to do this with my PTW when it was fitted, and only had time to release / reset the spring-catch and then reattach the cable attached to the bell crank (vertical movement of the selector shaft equating to left / right movements of the gear lever) as there was a sudden downpour and I needed to seek shelter once I put the bonnet back on. Found that the gearchange afterwards was essentially normal when it had been very tight into 1-2-3 to begin with.
 
check the gear linkage isn't rubbing against the gearbox casing / engine mounting when in or going into those gears
 
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did you use the selector tower from the ewq box or jdd tower ? if you used the ewq tower the boden cable slightly fouls on the gearbox mount and will need dressing back .
 
all good guys, dressed back the gearbox mount, lubed the linkages and drove it back n forth a bit and she's all good, however new clutch and the bite point is right at the top of the pedal is this normal
 
great news on the box mount , clutch pedal sounds off to me but ive not changed the one on the a2 yet so will let someone else chime on that .
 
Super duper

Clutch bite should be around the middle of its travel, a high bite point is associated with a worn clutch, what brand did you fit?
 
Heard folk mention the borg and beck clutches rattle at idle but not high bite point, maybe others who have them fitted will comment
 
could the clutch bearing arm or nylon seat be from the jdd box as i swapped the ewq onto the jdd so as to change one thing at a time . helps id any issues with the box .
 
kraig22 said:
could the clutch bearing arm or nylon seat be from the jdd box as i swapped the ewq onto the jdd so as to change one thing at a time . helps id any issues with the box .
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I fitted a complete jdd box so although a good suggestion based on my findings this would make no difference
 
I've got a B&B clutch in my PTW fitted "at the end of the road" without casing cut-back (to remove DMF-required spacer metal added in 6-speed boxes like my WOM-fitted NTG box), and it does have a bit of a sporadic audible rattle at idle - always has since fitted, but no change in nearly 4 years and a few 10s of k miles so assume it's fine. Clutch when box fitted was completely normal pedal feel and weight, the only issue was "tightness" between gears moving across the gate laterally when it was first fitted (I just paid for the box swap, nothing more), and this was resolved by releasing one of the gear cables on the cable-binding sprung mount thing, and then re-attaching it without doing anything else due to an imminent incoming rain-storm. Car was driveable thereafter with a much improved shift-feel lacking obvious impediment and hasn't been touched since.
 
if I were you I’d remove the clutch and send it back, then look for a Luk or Sachs kit.

The nuclear option, perhaps- but it wil almost certainly cure your issue and you won’t have to touch the clutch and gearbox again.
 
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