Headlamp adjustment woes + height adjustment failure

dj_efk

dj_efk

A2OC Donor
United-Kingdom
Has anyone experienced a failed height adjustment motor causing the headlamp aim to drop abnormally low?

It’s almost like the headlamp sim has become disconnected somehow from the height adjuster that you turn under the bonnet, as this suddenly doesn’t effect the beam height as you’d expect.
 
It is possible the ball end from the adjustment motor has become disconnected from the headlights frame or has travelled too far and this is giving the low aim. Check the adjuster arm is still intact and the ball is clipped into the frame correctly.

The manual ones that you can adjust on the side of the headlights are completely separate from the electronic levelling or range adjustment system.
 
Could the spring clip that holds the light bulb in place be unclipped? That could also result in the bulb sitting squiffy in the mount - although I appreciate it is unlikely.

I've had to replace a couple of the motors that had become noisy (constant whirring evident when the engine isn't running) and it is a simple job.

Agree it is much more likely to be directly motor related as Graham has suggested above.
 
Thanks guys, I'll need to get the headlamp off to have a look - I can polish and lacquer it while I'm there.

I gather the motor just unclips (wiring) and then you turn it to release it?
 
dj_efk said:
Thanks guys, I'll need to get the headlamp off to have a look - I can polish and lacquer it while I'm there.

I gather the motor just unclips (wiring) and then you turn it to release it?
Click to expand...
Have you changed the bulbs recently?
I ask as the motor needs to be twisted to lock it in the correct place too , if the other light adjusts check position of the motor & compare to the other motor.
Also it may be an unseated bulb I’ve had it when hitting a large pothole.
Hope that helps.
Keith.
 
Not yet, I’m time poor at the moment and the light output from the uprated bulbs is ok enough for it not to be critically urgent for local duties - planning to remove the headlamp and look this weekend as I’ve got a 400+ mile round work trip coming up.
 
Update on this: I've had the headlamp out and changed the adjuster motor for a brand new one, then I ensured the adjuster mechanisms were both located correctly (I believe the height one at least had somehow disconnected when I ham-fistedly adjusted it down too far) - I then set the two adjusters to roughly the correct position, which as it turns out I somehow managed to get absolutely spot on which I was amazed at - Would have been an all-round success if the adjuster motor on that side hadn't spoilt the party by still not responding to the dial like the driver's side does! Any ideas?

I am going to try taking the plug off next, inspecting for damage and checking for current with a multi-meter, can anyone tell me which connections to check? Seems very odd that the new adjuster hasn't sorted the issue - it's a genuine one too! Part number 1J0941295B.

Final comment, I've damaged the driver's side headlamp plug on the car's loom trying to get the damn thing off - Can someone post a clear picture of how to release the tab? There is a thread on it but the picture's too small to make out exactly what to do.
 
Two steps forward one back, classic a2 DIY. Sound like the best bit is sorted the light is level. Any way you can plug the adjuster into the know working side? Just an idea.

I think most a2 light looms have damaged clips. I filed mine off with glee, bloody thing. One side was easy driver side o chance! So I killed it.

Get someone to move the wheel with lights one while you use the volt meter to see a voltage
 
Trick to the headlight wiring plug is you need to force it on tighter before releasing the lock. Works every time if it is pushed on harder first..

Try swapping the range adjuster motors left / right and see if the fault follows the motor or is the wiring.
 
Well I changed the motor as it wasn’t working, so changing it for a brand new genuine one has confirmed it’s not the motor. So I have no idea what the issue could be.

The plug on the drivers side needs the tab to hold the connection tight enough to work so I think I’ll get my local garage - who are an electrics specialist as well as good mechanics - to replace it when they next have it.
 
dj_efk said:
Well I changed the motor as it wasn’t working, so changing it for a brand new genuine one has confirmed it’s not the motor. So I have no idea what the issue could be.

The plug on the drivers side needs the tab to hold the connection tight enough to work so I think I’ll get my local garage - who are an electrics specialist as well as good mechanics - to replace it when they next have it.
Click to expand...
You replace the shell of the connector only. There's an extractor tool to remove the pins from the damaged connector, then they are re-inserted into the new shell.
Mac.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top