Helicoil into aluminium
- Thread starter Indi
- Start date
I haven't had to do this myself but someone posted this recently as a potential solution to your problem.
Oil Sump Plug Pan Thread Repair Kit M14 Re-taps To M15 14mm To 15mm Neilsen 5055282027516 | eBay
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Again, haven't purchased or used it myself but thought it could possibly work for you?
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
I would also consider using an extractor pump through the dipstick hole for oil changes from now on - I do this and the whole job is done in half an hour of leisurely working without the bother of having to raise the car to remove the undertray and wait for the sump to drain etc.
I have experimented and only a small dribble of oil is left in the sump if you do then remove the plug - the additional advantage is you can use the hose end to suck all the oil from the filter housing too so it’s an excellent all-round option - I change it every 7500 miles.
I have experimented and only a small dribble of oil is left in the sump if you do then remove the plug - the additional advantage is you can use the hose end to suck all the oil from the filter housing too so it’s an excellent all-round option - I change it every 7500 miles.
Howey
Member
Best thing about aluminium you can often avoid drilling it, or at least not to the exact amount a helicoil drill is for example if the helicoil states a 14.3mm drill is required, a 14 mm will be absolutely fine I do this often on our fleet of fiat's for gearbox and steering rack mountings
Rusty911
A2OC Donor
I hate Helicoils: if you don't get it perfect the coil misses a thread and you end up with an almighty mess.
My preference by far is to go the Timesert route. Easier to use and utterly bombproof once in. Much stronger than the original thread. More money (although you could probably sell the kit on after use as they come with a number of inserts usually) but a very high quality repair.
My preference by far is to go the Timesert route. Easier to use and utterly bombproof once in. Much stronger than the original thread. More money (although you could probably sell the kit on after use as they come with a number of inserts usually) but a very high quality repair.
Howey
Member
Never used them but don't they mean you have to remove a lot more material to fit them? So long as your square never had a problem with helicoils but I do feel like what I imagine a bomb disposal expert to feels like when I "go for it" lol
Joga
A2OC Donor
Hi. In which phase of the work in helicoiling do you se the biggest risk for problem, I didnt follow fully?
Gilbert
Member
Why not drill and tap the next size up instead of using a helicoil?
RobinPeter
Member
I done this repair 3 weeks ago using that set. It worked fine for me.
I didn't do any drilling but getting the tap started took some patience & perceverance.
I put plenty of grease on the tap threads & in the flutes to catch the swarf.
I only progressed the tap 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn each time before reversing & cleaning the tap of swarf,
& re-greasing & repeating time & time again!
Took awhile but I'm happy with the result.
66Beetle
A2OC Donor
I`ve never used a Helicoil, although I used to sell a lot in my previous life as a Motor Trade Partsman. Helicoils look far to flimsy to me.
What I have used successfully is the Timesert Thread system for Exhaust Stud Hole Threads in the Cylinder Heads of the 1972 VW Type 3 Variant. Done in situ. I was lucky enough to borrow a Timesert Set from a local Engine Builder on a Saturday Morning, provided I posted it back through the letterbox of their workshop with a £5 Note before his business partner came back in to work on Monday morning !
Timesert are very expansive a Master Kit is about £1300 on ebay. A Set for one size of Thread can be more than £300. That`s a special size Drill Bit , Thread Tap, Countersink Bit, Tool for screwing the Thread Insert in, and the Thread Inserts themselves. The Inserts have a special Thread on the outside and the new Thread on the inside. Not sure how the Insertion Tool works. You would expect it to unscrew the Insert again when you remove the Tool but it does not.
However I have just found another German system that is very similar Baerfix on ebay. £80.90 plus £15.06 Postage from Germany for a Set that does Sizes M3 to M10 ! Hoping to try that one very soon. They also do Baerfix Spark Plug Thread Inserts, so maybe Sump Plug Inserts as well ?
There is a BaerCoil system but that is just like Helicoils.
What I have used successfully is the Timesert Thread system for Exhaust Stud Hole Threads in the Cylinder Heads of the 1972 VW Type 3 Variant. Done in situ. I was lucky enough to borrow a Timesert Set from a local Engine Builder on a Saturday Morning, provided I posted it back through the letterbox of their workshop with a £5 Note before his business partner came back in to work on Monday morning !
Timesert are very expansive a Master Kit is about £1300 on ebay. A Set for one size of Thread can be more than £300. That`s a special size Drill Bit , Thread Tap, Countersink Bit, Tool for screwing the Thread Insert in, and the Thread Inserts themselves. The Inserts have a special Thread on the outside and the new Thread on the inside. Not sure how the Insertion Tool works. You would expect it to unscrew the Insert again when you remove the Tool but it does not.
However I have just found another German system that is very similar Baerfix on ebay. £80.90 plus £15.06 Postage from Germany for a Set that does Sizes M3 to M10 ! Hoping to try that one very soon. They also do Baerfix Spark Plug Thread Inserts, so maybe Sump Plug Inserts as well ?
There is a BaerCoil system but that is just like Helicoils.
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Interesting. I might look into this. Which extractor do you use?
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
No, my 30 odd year old Golf had them fitted at the factory.
Yes, Helicoil or cheaper compatible Vcoil will do the job and not too expensive. Timeserts are much better but very expensive and more challenging to fit, not sure I would bother for a sump plug.
