Hello from North East England

F

Fatfranky

Member
Hi

I've just joined the forum as we have just bought a 2001 A2 TDI (75 BHP) yesterday for my girlfriend.

Overall the car is good but there are a few minor niggly things to sort out:-

Original radio was in safe mode (rectified with £10 eBay code) but aftermarket unit fitted by seller

Only one key which only works if you put it in lock ( I have Vcds but am currently getting nowhere

Condensation in headlight

Rip in drivers seat

Wheel wobble at 60 MPH ( balancing?)

Couple of bits of missing trim (parcel shelf, tail light cover, jacking point cover etc.)

I look forward to rectifying these niggles and hopefully enjoy the car

Best regards

Frank
 
HI,

try the following when you want to get the key to connect to the CCCU for the remote operation.

In the VCDS instructions for coding the keys it states

(The following is done after you have selected control function 46 "CCCU"
Then click on adaption
Then)

"Enter channel "01" (May be channel "21" in some Audi models). - It is 21 for the A2

[Read]

This will display the number of currently stored remotes in "Stored Value". - Mine always displayed "0" as I think all A2s do?

Enter your total number of keys up to a maximum of 4(including any existing keys) in "New Value" - This is where the instructions are wrong. The "New Value" field is the POSITION of the key (out of the 4 positions) NOT the number of keys you want to code,
So instead of following those instructions, try this,
You use the "up" arrow to move to the position you want the key to be in (or type the number in (1 to 4) and then (without clicking test or save or anything) press the lock button on the key that you want to pair into that position then "save".
The instructions state that you should enter the total number of keys and that is not right. I could verify that it is wrong by clicking the up arrow to get to 1 then pressing the lock button on the key I would see "Recognised" appear in the field at the top.
I could then click the up arrow again (to number 2 for example) and when I pressed the lock button on the key, the field changed from "adjustment" to "recognised".
What happens then is if you click save it just saves the key position you have displayed at that point, not all of the others too.

So I would recommend trying the following, click on the up arrow to get the "1" (or key in "1"), the field will show "adjustment", press the lock on the key you want to pair first and the field will change to "recognised" click on save and then you have now paired the first key. Then use the up arrow to move to "2" and then press the lock button on the second key that you want to pair, when that changes to "recognised" you save that and then repeat for "3" and "4" saving each time. (if you want 4 keys that is!!


So I managed to successfully pair a second key, but not the "later" key.

If you are having problems pairing a second key I would be interested to know if you too find that the instructions are not right and the ones I proposed above work for you?
Steve B
 
Fatfranky said:
Hi

I've just joined the forum as we have just bought a 2001 A2 TDI (75 BHP) yesterday for my girlfriend.

Overall the car is good but there are a few minor niggly things to sort out:-

Original radio was in safe mode (rectified with £10 eBay code) but aftermarket unit fitted by seller

Only one key which only works if you put it in lock ( I have Vcds but am currently getting nowhere

Condensation in headlight

Rip in drivers seat

Wheel wobble at 60 MPH ( balancing?)

Couple of bits of missing trim (parcel shelf, tail light cover, jacking point cover etc.)

I look forward to rectifying these niggles and hopefully enjoy the car

Best regards

Frank
Click to expand...

Hi Frank,
Welcome.

Birchall is the man for key syncing, im sure he will be along soon!

I have cured many A2 headlights by removing the whole light by two torx bolts and taking indoors. Remove the rear covers and bulbs and let the light sit in the warm to dry out. Next, look for any small cracks in the lens. If there is, use a tiny bit of clear silicon sealant with your finger over the crack, then wipe any excess away. You can also use a thin layer of sealant around the shell where the two halves join. Also, if you have any silicon gel packs, place some inside the rear of the light. Seal it all back up and you should have no condensation. This has worked every time for myself.

Check ebay for the missing bit, i have seen most of the items on there atm.

Wheel wobble could be a number of things, is it from the front or rear? Any noise?
 
Fatfranky said:
Hi


Condensation in headlight

Rip in drivers seat


Couple of bits of missing trim (parcel shelf, tail light cover, jacking point cover etc.)

Frank
Click to expand...

Hi Frank,

Welcome, a new member here aswell. There is a breaker in Stokesly who I've found helpful. I'd pop and leave an order for parts with.

Unfortunately you have just missed a shelf on here.

All the best with your ownership

Paul
 
Ive just taken my headlight out to replace a sidelight bulb and noticed a break in the one inch-ish rubber band which wraps around the entire unit. I pulled both broken ends together taught and super glued them back together and down onto the plastic. I had the headlamp condenstation problem and totally by accidently solved it by doing this. :)
 
We are in the same town. The revolution begins!
Olympic tyres at Annfield Plain will sort out your tyre issue. Professional Auto Electrics are spot on for electrical issues and Andy at Croxdale will keep you right on mechanic issues.
Welcome to the forum. They are a great bunch here and will keep you right
 
Thanks for the replies guys, most appreciated.

Birchall

I'd already read some of your posts and have tried what you say but probably not 100% to the letter of your instructions, so I will try again! I suspect that my transmitter maybe knacked!

Assuming that it is, and even if it's ok I would like a second and possibly third key (and transmitter) for the car, so am looking for another one at least. Mine is part number 8z0 837 231 (433.92 MHz) having a quick scan on eBay there are plenty on this frequency but have a suffix after the number (usually 8z0 837 231 D) can anyone confirm if these will work?

The headlamp is on the radiator and has dried out nicely, but someone has already smothered it in sealant so I suspect that I may just be putting off the inevitable, but we'll see.

Hopefully I'm visiting a local scrappy today that has an A2 in and may pick up some of the bits required.

The wheel wobble comes on at about 60 and seems to dissipate at 80 (private road of course) and affects the front wheels it also seems to diminish a bit if you hold the steering wheel tightly, all of this suggests wheel balance to me. One of the front tyres is new the other is not long for this world so I may well wait till replacement time and get them all balanced and tracked for my own peace of mind.

Once again many thanks for the responses.
 
Ok guys!

Updates!

Went to the scrappy on Wednesday, picked up a parcel shelf plus most of the missing trim bits.

I also didn't like the idea of having no spare wheel or 2 (even if they live in the garage rather than the boot) the breaker wouldn't split the set of four, so I went from having no spare wheel to having 4, they were a bargain price though so were worth it.


Then earlier today I noticed that the front N/S tyre was flat, whether we've picked up a puncture or the seller had inflated a slow puncture when selling the car I don't know, but either way I swapped the wheel for one of my new ones, this was the well worn tyre so it would have needed replacement soon anyway! Took the car for a swift test drive and wheel wobble has gone, so that's one thing off the list!

Whilst at the scrappy I tried a spare key remote that he had, it was the exact same part number and it would not communicate using Birchalls instructions to the letter, nor would my remote earlier in the day, so I suspect the fault lies elsewhere. The relevant field does not change from "adjustment" to "recognised" when pressed.

A couple of other points I've noticed, the fuel flap does not seem to work off the button and the heated rear window (or at least the lower section) are not working. Are these possibly related to the CCCU? Also is it a simple matter to swap the CCCU as the scrappy would probably allow me to test it at his yard (on my car) if it was likely to sort some of the faults.

One other question, does anyone know how to remove the sun visor clip? The one near the centre of the car that the visor locks into, girlfriend broke it during the test drive (very funny at the time) I can get one from the breaker but can't see any obvious fixings.

That's it for now, hopefully I'll rectify a few more bits in the coming days.

Many thanks in advance
 
The spare remote you have is probably a slightly different part number and does not match your CCCU.
There are different keys for the different CCCUs, for example a key that is from a CCCU that has a part number that ends in a "Q" will not be recognised by a CCCU that ends in an "AF". I suppose you tried a new battery in it though? It is not possible to tell if the battery has gone or not due to the lack of an LED light on the fob.

If the fuel flap doesn't open, and if the dash does not show that the door is open when it is, then the microswitch in the driver's door lock has failed and the system is simply not realising that the door is open (the fuel flap button is disabled when the car thinks the driver's door is not open). If that is not the case here then the button may have failed. Try swapping one from the scrapper and see if that fixes it.

The heated rear window has no connection with the CCCU.

The sunvisor clip has a plastic "shroud" that pulls off and reveals the screw ( if it is the one I think you are describing)

I hope this helps

Steve B
 
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Hello again guys

Sorry I haven't posted back up I've been tied up with one or two other things

The main thing troubling me is the fact that the car only has one key, when at the breakers I tried another key but Burchall is quite right I did not know if it has a good battery or not, although I did replace the battery in mine and also tested it with voltmeter. My CCCU IS part number 8E0 959 433 BD and I would like to locate a spare transmitter, does anyone have a suitable working spare for sale or if I posted someone my transmitter ( but hang on to the blade part so I can still start car) could they test it or is there another test procedure I can follow. To answer the other question the door open light does appear on the dash and it would appear that the button for the fuel flap and alarm are kaput so I will pop back to the breakers, this may also explain why the Right hand tail light cover was missing- to give access to the fuel flap release rod!

One other fault was the starter noise on disengagement which was solved by removing stripping cleaning and lubricating the motor, now silent.

One of the rear seats will not release (4 seater) it folds forward but the base will not release, can anyone offer any tips on this please

Many thanks in advance
 
Fatfranky said:
Hello again guys


One of the rear seats will not release (4 seater) it folds forward but the base will not release, can anyone offer any tips on this please

Many thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Try pushing down HARD and at the same time pulling the release lever. That should do it.
I sometimes have to put my full weight on the top of the seat and kinda bounce it as hard as I can while pulling the lever at the same time (Careful with the lever, they do come apart if you pull too hard.

Steve B
 
Thanks guys

Here's some pics of the car as requested (wanted to wash it first)

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As you'll see from the last pic I need to replace the cover on the drivers seat base, does anyone have one or now of a car with that trim at a breakers?
 

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Looks good. Cloth interiors don't cost much so may just be worth looking for a complete interior to swap over.
 
Hi frank. Am over on the coast in Durham but use Volksparts in Meadowfield for most of my repairs and servicing. They are a VW Audi independent garage with no BS.
 
Thanks guys

I think the photos flatter it a little as it had just been washed and shampooed inside and out, but still very respectable for a 14 year old car.

I'm aware of Volksparts and have recommended them to other folks, but have not used them personally as I tend to do almost all of my own maintenance, though my own car had a bit of work done there by the previous owner, who is a friend and has been very pleased with them.

I'm generally not scared of mechanical, or even bodywork and paint (I am a coach builder by trade), the tricky bit is the quirky things and the electronics! I often say that a mechanics best tool nowadays is diagnostic software and access to google! It's a bit daunting when you detect 4 faults, your having nightmares where you're haemorrhaging $$'s and it turns out the cause is a blown bulb or fuse!

Many thanks for the help received so far, the main thing I'm keen to resolve is the remote central locking as that will please 'her in drawers' and mean that I get a peaceful life.

Best regards

Frank
 
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