How to replace rear door micro switch

That is a link to the start of this thread. The pictures that helped have been archived. But if you read the thread that Audifan kindly posted and don’t click on the link in the first post it certainly does help.
Cheers

Steve B
 
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audifan said:
This thread and pictures here will help. door trim removal is three screws, one behind the small tweeter grille and the other 2 in the lower edge of the armrest. Unclip the interior handle cable and disconnect or remove the tweeter...


If you need more help give me a message.
Click to expand...
Thx. I have already removed everything (on the scrap car) together with window regulator, also two larger bolts that hold the door lock in place, so I have the lock moving, but is it tied with the braid to the outer door handle. I was not able to disconnect it and didn't want to brake anything.
I will go through those threads from the link that you have given and hopefully this will help.
 
mtl said:
Thx. I have already removed everything (on the scrap car) together with window regulator, also two larger bolts that hold the door lock in place, so I have the lock moving, but is it tied with the braid to the outer door handle. I was not able to disconnect it and didn't want to brake anything.
I will go through those threads from the link that you have given and hopefully this will help.
Click to expand...

You need to remove the rear end of the door handle. The piece that would be the door lock on the front door i.e where the key goes. There is a little plastic cap covering a small torx screw inside the door in line with where this section of the handle is. Undo this torx screw all the way, open the door handle and then wiggle the rear section of the door handle free. This will expose a little tab that is the end of the braid you describe above that's attached to the door handle. You can just flick it free and the internal door lock will come free.
 
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The braid thing disconnects from the outer door handle using just a flat-blade screwdriver. I imagine that attaching it on the other car will be fun though.

Edit: Go with what Steve said above ^^^^, that's all the detail that I forgot to include :)
 
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A2Steve said:
You need to remove the rear end of the door handle. The piece that would be the door lock on the front door i.e where the key goes. There is a little plastic cap covering a small torx screw inside the door in line with where this section of the handle is.
Click to expand...
I thought so, but I was not able to remove this cap on the rear end of the door handle. I tried from bottom up and up to down and it didn't release. On Octavia that I have, I just put the key into the bottom part and it clicks open. I could brake it on the scrap car, but my heart would ache and also it is better that I learn how to remove everything without brakeing anything on the scrap car, than on mine :).
 
Open the door and look underneath the rubber seal at the same level as the door handle. There's a Torx grub-screw, undo this then you can lever out the thing that the plastic end is on the top of. It's shaped like a door lock barrel but it's just a dummy.
 
I have another question. Is this trouble code normally connected to the faulty microswitch or it can be something else (wiring loom, rear dool electronic module (the car has electric power windows in the rear)).
Before CCU was repaired and on the replacement CCU the fault code was:
01561 - Rear left door
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
After CCU was repaired the trouble code is this:
01561 - Rear left door
58-00 - Can't lock
The symptom is the same before/after CCU repair: rear left doors do not lock.
 
Door open warning comes from the external microswitch, not the internal ones. The internal board can have dry or cracked joints anywhere so is worth reflowing all joints on it.

What part number CCCU do you now have fitted?

I would carefully look into the wiring connectors for the rear doors as they pass from the B pillar into the rear doors. These are known to catch water and corrode the connections. Worth removing and cleaning thoroughly then use some dielectric grease when you refit the plugs to help keep the moisture at bay.


Here is a picture showing what I mean...

Rear door connector.jpg


1639517240088.jpeg


Above pictures are Ian's @Kleynie
 
CCU unit is N (stamped on the plastic housing), but diagnostic tool shows K, replacement unit was AE (remote of course did not work).

Yesteday I went to the scrap yard and got the door lock out, which was 5 min job, since I already had almost all done, except the last part. I took time to check the wiring on that car and was looking also at this connector, but was really fixed in place as it was (I think) glued to the B pillar. I would not wan’t to take it off, if it is glued, to open possible water leak in the future. But I will thoroughly check if the rubber seal is perfect on my car.
 
The B-pillar connectors for the door wiring looms have a piece which has to be slid across horizontally before they can be unclipped. There will be pictures on here.
 
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1639581068007.jpeg


Although this is an A4 the plugs is very similar.
Left picture shows the purple lock that needs to be slid over so the white lines do not align.
You then press where the "X" is in the right picture to split the wiring. IRRC the plug is rotated slightly downwards as it is removed.

Remove, clean thoroughly both halves, check for corrosion and remove corrosion, use dielectric grease, clip plugs together, slide purple lock over so white marks align and refit exterior rubber boot making sure it is fully home.
 
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Today I had some time and solved the problem with the doors not locking. I have replaced locking mechanism and the same issue: doors did not lock. Few days ago I have checked the B-pillar connector and it was in pristine state, so no problem there. So, I have replaced the cable from door control unit to the locking mechanism and still no joy. After that I have replaced the door control unit and everything works :). I am very happy, was quite disappointed after locking mechanism replacement did not solve the problem. And good that I have taken all the parts from the scrap car and had them with me. So, for me the problem was in the door control unit.
Thanks to all the instructions (and answers) here, it was quite easy job once you know what you need to do. I did not remove the window frame, because it is not needed. No parts were broken :).
Thank you all again for the support.
And here is also the video about the process. I hope that it will be of help:
 
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