Hydraulic timing belt tensioner.

[kp 115]

2001/01 AMF engine 1.4 tdi se
Having scanned the forum with no luck I’m trying to find a method to reset the tensioner.

On inspection it was already fully extended
Possibly as a result of the teeth loss (30) on the timing belt, I have the locks in place but need to retract the piston to fit tension locking tool.

Any ideas gratefully received
Keith.

 

[audifan]

This may assist you. Please check it is the same as your car as a few issues are appearing in the manuals not reflecting UK spec cars.

Insert a hexagon key into the hexagon socket as far as the stop and use it to push the tensioning roller anti-clockwise -arrow- until you can lock the toothed belt tensioner with locking plate -T10008-.

Note
t Insert the hexagon key as far as stop, to prevent damage.
t The toothed belt tensioner is oil-damped and can therefore only be compressed slowly by applying constant pressure.
– Loosen securing nut for tensioning roller.

– Unscrew bolts -arrows- and detach toothed belt tensioner.
– Remove toothed belt.
Installing (adjusting valve timing)
l Camshaft locked with locking pin -3359-.
l Crankshaft locked in position with crankshaft stop -T10050-.
l Tensioning roller locked with locking plate -T10008-.

Note
t Toothed belt adjustment must always be performed when the engine is cold.
t The crankshaft must not be at “TDC” at any cylinder when the camshaft is turned. Otherwise, there is a risk of damage to valves and piston crowns.

– Screw in bolts -arrows-, but do not tighten.
l The camshaft sprocket must just about still turn, and must not tilt.
– Turn the camshaft sprocket in its elongated hole clockwise until the stop.
– Fit toothed belt first onto camshaft sprocket, tensioning roller, crankshaft sprocket and then onto coolant pump sprocket.

– Install toothed belt tensioner.
Adjust toothed belt tension as follows:
– Turn eccentric adjuster anti-clockwise -arrow- onto stop -A- using 2-hole pin wrench -3387-.
– Remove locking plate -T10008-.

– Wrap insulating tape around tip and shaft of 4.0 mm Ø drill bit to avoid cuts.
– Gradually relieve pressure on the tensioner and allow it to turn clockwise -arrow- until you can pull the shaft of a Ø 4.0 mm drill bit -item 2- through between the tensioning lever and the housing of the tensioner.
l Dimension -a- = 4.0 ± 1.0 mm.

Note
t Leave sufficient tolerance when adjusting, dimension -a- is reduced when tightening tensioning roller nut.
t Dimension -a- is reduced when the engine is at operating temperature.
– Hold tensioning roller in this position and tighten securing nut to 20 Nm + 45° (1/8 turn).

– First tighten bolts -arrows- for camshaft sprocket to 25 Nm.
– Remove locking pin -3359- and crankshaft stop -T10050-.

Caution
The engine must only be turned at the crankshaft, in the direction of normal engine rotation (clockwise).
– Turn crankshaft two rotations in normal direction of rotation until it is again positioned just before “TDC”.

– Check again that dimension -a- is obtained between tensioning lever and housing of tensioner.
l Dimension -a- = 4.0 ± 1.0 mm.
If dimension -a- is not obtained, re-tension the tensioning roller as follows:
– Hold tensioning roller with 2-hole pin wrench -3387- , slacken nut -1- and relieve pressure on tensioner -arrow- until dimension -a- is obtained.
l Dimension -a- = 4.0 ± 1.0 mm.
– Hold tensioning roller in this position and tighten securing nut to 20 Nm + 45° (1/8 turn).

 

[kp 115]

This may assist you. Please check it is the same as your car as a few issues are appearing in the manuals not reflecting UK spec cars.

Insert a hexagon key into the hexagon socket as far as the stop and use it to push the tensioning roller anti-clockwise -arrow- until you can lock the toothed belt tensioner with locking plate -T10008-.

Note
t Insert the hexagon key as far as stop, to prevent damage.
t The toothed belt tensioner is oil-damped and can therefore only be compressed slowly by applying constant pressure.
– Loosen securing nut for tensioning roller.

– Unscrew bolts -arrows- and detach toothed belt tensioner.
– Remove toothed belt.
Installing (adjusting valve timing)
l Camshaft locked with locking pin -3359-.
l Crankshaft locked in position with crankshaft stop -T10050-.
l Tensioning roller locked with locking plate -T10008-.

Note
t Toothed belt adjustment must always be performed when the engine is cold.
t The crankshaft must not be at “TDC” at any cylinder when the camshaft is turned. Otherwise, there is a risk of damage to valves and piston crowns.

– Screw in bolts -arrows-, but do not tighten.
l The camshaft sprocket must just about still turn, and must not tilt.
– Turn the camshaft sprocket in its elongated hole clockwise until the stop.
– Fit toothed belt first onto camshaft sprocket, tensioning roller, crankshaft sprocket and then onto coolant pump sprocket.

– Install toothed belt tensioner.
Adjust toothed belt tension as follows:
– Turn eccentric adjuster anti-clockwise -arrow- onto stop -A- using 2-hole pin wrench -3387-.
– Remove locking plate -T10008-.

– Wrap insulating tape around tip and shaft of 4.0 mm Ø drill bit to avoid cuts.
– Gradually relieve pressure on the tensioner and allow it to turn clockwise -arrow- until you can pull the shaft of a Ø 4.0 mm drill bit -item 2- through between the tensioning lever and the housing of the tensioner.
l Dimension -a- = 4.0 ± 1.0 mm.

Note
t Leave sufficient tolerance when adjusting, dimension -a- is reduced when tightening tensioning roller nut.
t Dimension -a- is reduced when the engine is at operating temperature.
– Hold tensioning roller in this position and tighten securing nut to 20 Nm + 45° (1/8 turn).

– First tighten bolts -arrows- for camshaft sprocket to 25 Nm.
– Remove locking pin -3359- and crankshaft stop -T10050-.

Caution
The engine must only be turned at the crankshaft, in the direction of normal engine rotation (clockwise).
– Turn crankshaft two rotations in normal direction of rotation until it is again positioned just before “TDC”.

– Check again that dimension -a- is obtained between tensioning lever and housing of tensioner.
l Dimension -a- = 4.0 ± 1.0 mm.
If dimension -a- is not obtained, re-tension the tensioning roller as follows:
– Hold tensioning roller with 2-hole pin wrench -3387- , slacken nut -1- and relieve pressure on tensioner -arrow- until dimension -a- is obtained.
l Dimension -a- = 4.0 ± 1.0 mm.
– Hold tensioning roller in this position and tighten securing nut to 20 Nm + 45° (1/8 turn).

Hi Audifan,
That is perfect just what I was hoping for,
It appears the tensioner had been fully extended for a long time judging by the black deposits on the shaft or maybe a result of high mileage.
Will now be able to retract tensioner.

Many thanks
Keith.

 

[audifan]

Just keep in mind I have recently found a few issues with the manuals not being the same as the car. Take it easy if it is fully extended so you do not cause a hydraulic leak as you slowly retract it, even if you have to do it in a few small stages wedging it as you go. If you are replacing the belt I'd do the water pump and tensioner at the same time, plus new coolant, may be good time to replace the water thermostat as well.

 

[kp 115]

Just keep in mind I have recently found a few issues with the manuals not being the same as the car. Take it easy if it is fully extended so you do not cause a hydraulic leak as you slowly retract it, even if you have to do it in a few small stages wedging it as you go. If you are replacing the belt I'd do the water pump and tensioner at the same time, plus new coolant, may be good time to replace the water thermostat as well.

Full Audi timing kit to be fitted & new Audi pump, thermostat replaced last year.
I will also be replacing the turbo vacuum lines as well due to age & chaffing etc but I'm trying to confirm cylinder head condition after belt failure.

 

[audifan]

Pretty good chance you will have at least some damage to valves, unfortunately the valves have a habit of gouging into the top of the pistons, not saying that is what you have. It may be worth chatting with some of our resident breakers to see if they have a good head assembly and the availability of pistons or short blocks. May even be quicker and cheaper to do an engine transplant then recondition your old one as a spare or even sell on.

 

[spike]

2001/01 AMF engine 1.4 tdi se
Having scanned the forum with no luck I’m trying to find a method to reset the tensioner.

On inspection it was already fully extended
Possibly as a result of the teeth loss (30) on the timing belt, I have the locks in place but need to retract the piston to fit tension locking tool.

Any ideas gratefully received
Keith.

First time I did the cambelt I did not lock of the hydraulic tensioner correctly with the T10008 tool and the stem slipped and fully extended. I found it impossible to compress it by rotating the toothed belt tensioner pulley.
As it's called a 'hydraulic' tensioner I'd assumed it was oil fed so was reluctant to unbolt it from the engine. In fact it's a stand alone unit and likely just oil damped to control the big spring.
New units are supplied 'locked off' ready for installation - see ebay pic - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OE-VW-Au...=item1a635e53bb:g:DiMAAOSwd9Za6MwM:rk:20:pf:0

With the belt slack or removed I'd just unbolt it, compress the plunger in a vice and fit the T10008 locking fork. For refitting there is a slot in the front gear housing to feed the locking fork through.

Fingers crossed the valve timing had not slipped too much to cause major damage

Cheers Spike

 

[kp 115]

First time I did the cambelt I did not lock of the hydraulic tensioner correctly with the T10008 tool and the stem slipped and fully extended. I found it impossible to compress it by rotating the toothed belt tensioner pulley.
As it's called a 'hydraulic' tensioner I'd assumed it was oil fed so was reluctant to unbolt it from the engine. In fact it's a stand alone unit and likely just oil damped to control the big spring.
New units are supplied 'locked off' ready for installation - see ebay pic - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OE-VW-Au...=item1a635e53bb:g:DiMAAOSwd9Za6MwM:rk:20:pf:0

With the belt slack or removed I'd just unbolt it, compress the plunger in a vice and fit the T10008 locking fork. For refitting there is a slot in the front gear housing to feed the locking fork through.

Fingers crossed the valve timing had not slipped too much to cause major damage

Cheers Spike

Hi Spike,
I will try this method when the rain stops this morning as yesterday was unsuccessful with the tensioner as you were , I think because it was fully extended.
I’ve found the idler pulley bearing to be noisy,
tensioner is also the same & the water pump doesn’t feel as smooth as it should, nothing seized or running out of line.

Cheers
Keith.

 

[kp 115]

Hi Spike,
I will try this method when the rain stops this morning as yesterday was unsuccessful with the tensioner as you were , I think because it was fully extended.
I’ve found the idler pulley bearing to be noisy,
tensioner is also the same & the water pump doesn’t feel as smooth as it should, nothing seized or running out of line.

Cheers
Keith.

Hi,
Just to update this after stripping down the complete head the only damage found was a broken injector spring retaining clip/fitting, I found the broken piece as well !
Bought a secondhand injector from eBay & stripped it down to get the retainer, replaced all seals & bolts ready for reassembly also found wear on the camshaft shell bearings
So a complete new set were fitted for good measure.

Head cleaned & valves de-coked prior to relapping valves followed by new valve stem seals & then rebuilt fitted , timed with complete kit taken for mot today & passed
So I’m back on the road again.

Many thanks for helping
Keith.