Ignition Switched 12 Volts at Interior Light?

PlasticMac

PlasticMac

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United-Kingdom
Is there a way of getting a switched 12 Volts, at the front interior light, other than from dash/radio etc?
If not, how do I get a wire up the A pillar, and across the roof?
Mac.
 
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By "switched" you mean "ignition switched"? If you enter the car and can switch on the light, it's not an ignition switched supply.

RAB
 
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RAB said:
By "switched" you mean "ignition switched"? If you enter the car and can switch on the light, it's not an ignition switched supply.

RAB
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Thanks @RAB by switched, I mean not permanent. Looking for a supply that could be used for a dash cam, without the hassle of cables from dash area, up to the A pillar, and across the roof. There is the supply to the interior lights, electronically switched by the central locking controller, that is off when the car is locked. If interior lights have low power leds, there may be spare capacity to power a dash cam.
Just wondered if this had been considered before.
Mac.
 
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PlasticMac said:
Thanks @RAB
Just wondered if this had been considered before.
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I am sure it has. You would need to determine the maximum current consumption of the dashcam and the maximum output of the controller - the latter may be a problem but if there is a fuse between the controller and the light, that would tell you.

RAB
 
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RAB said:
I am sure it has. You would need to determine the maximum current consumption of the dashcam and the maximum output of the controller - the latter may be a problem but if there is a fuse between the controller and the light, that would tell you.

RAB
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I was taking the total power consumption of all the internal lights, front and rear with filament lamps, as a guide to the max power rating of that circuit.
Mac.
 
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But that will be less than the max capacity of the circuit. You have to make certain that the excess is more than the dashcam max consumption.

RAB
 
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I would not want to connect a dash cam into a circuit that has the CCCU attached. There is a chance the camera could interfere with the CCCU going to sleep or triggering the alarm. Would prefer ( and have done so ) to run the power lead for the dash cam out the right of the dash, behind the A pillar trim and under the headlining. The other end is then connected to an ignition switched fuse in the fuse box.

Personally I have fitted a power adapter just behind the steering column. This is wired into the fuse box ignition live and provides me with 3 12v sockets and 3 USB sockets. Dash cam and camera detector are each using a 12v socket and phone and Garmin satnav are each using a USB socket. Being ignition only live when the car is turned off all the ports and devices power down. This leaves the ciggy socket and the 12v boot socket accessible for other uses such as my espresso machine and cool box.
 
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I'm in the process of fitting a dash cam whilst having the headline refurbished. So far I've ran the power cable across the front of the headline above the dash binnacle then down behind the top of the A trim, then behind driver's side door seal and behind a small plastic trim. There is a gap here between the dash and the body. Using a long straighten metal clothes hanger I attached a string to the end with tape (see photo) and push it though to the pedals. Took a number of tries to get it to come out at the right place. Then detached the string and pulled the power cable through (see photo). I then found a route across the top of the pedals using some trim that ensures it wont fall down. So I'm now at the centre of the dash above the clutch.

I plan to remove the cubby hole and pull the cable through to the cubby hole. Behind the cubby hole I will position the 12v to 5v (or is it 3.5v) converter with a toggle switch inside the cubby hole. The switch will allow me to switch between switched feed (normal) or permanent feed (for when parked in dodgy places!). I'm hoping the radio has both switched and permanent feed. If anyone can confirm that then it would be good. Failing that maybe the AC has the feeds. I feel the radio is a good non critical item to have those squeeze connectors that cut into the cable.

The converter has 2 USB outputs. One for the camera power and one I will mount on the cubby hole for accessories. The converter provides 3.5A and the camera takes about 1A to 2A including the rear camera (I guess 1A with just a front camera and 2A with front and rear camera).

I'm taking photos so may do a write up. At the moment I'm stuck getting the D trim back.
 

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Alan_uk said:
I'm hoping the radio has both switched and permanent feed. If anyone can confirm that then it would be good.
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Evening Alan,

I'm unable to direct you to a perfect ignition switched live feed right now but there is a couple within the passengers footwell area. What I can say though is that your 2005 A2 will not have an ignition switched live feed at the head unit. I'm sure there are members out there who can advise on the best possible pin/location to take this feed from. If no one assists then I'll get the wiring diagram out later this evening to provide you with a more precise answer.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
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I’ve used one of these in the past with a piggy back fuse, I can’t be 100%, but I think I used fuse 36 which was interior lights/locking & for my limited electrical skills it worked fine.

3bb1075fc4c798b956bd4cd666b054f3.jpg



Sent from thin air
 
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I'm OK locating an ignition switched 12 volts, just looking for an alternative to wires from dash area, up the A pillar, and across the roof.
Seems there isn't one.
Mac
Mac.
 
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The thick white wire going to the climate control panel is an ignition live with plenty of power available Please don’t use the scotchlok connectors they are devils work and at best are temporary. They will and do fail and will drive you insane trying to figure out why something that worked for months or years stopped working

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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depronman said:
The thick white wire going to the climate control panel is an ignition live with plenty of power available Please don’t use the scotchlok connectors they are devils work and at best are temporary. They will and do fail and will drive you insane trying to figure out why something that worked for months or years stopped working
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Paul, What type of connector/connection do you suggest?
 
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