Immobiliser problem - HELP!!!!

Jeff Sutcliffe

Jeff Sutcliffe

A2OC Donor
I've just received a call from the non-VAG but well respected and trusted garage to which my 2001 75TDI was recovered last Wednesday after I was unable to start it. I'd be very much obliged if any knowledgeable member(s) could offer an opinion and advice as to the probable accuracy of the garage's diagnosis and the garage's suggested remedy/cost.

The car had been as reliable as ever at the time I last drove it, two days before the 'breakdown'. On Wednesday morning, when I next wanted to use the car, the glow plug light didn't appear and, after starting the engine, it cut out after less than 5 seconds - sounding as though there wasn't any fuel getting to the engine. My breakdown service's mechanic/recovery driver noticed that the fuel gauge, clock and milometer also weren't illuminating when the ignition was switched on and offered the opinion that there was an immobiliser fault which needed garage attention - hence the recovery to the local garage.

The diagnosis today is that there is an immobiliser fault and that in order to resolve it, I need a new set of clocks which will then need re-programming. The cost - around £1,000 with new parts or £475 using second hand parts that have a one month's warranty.

Any advice or opinions would be much appreciated.

Jeff
 
Jeff

Sorry to hear this news. Has anyone checked all the fuses associated with the clocks first? As they are part of the circuit of they are not powered they will impact immobiliser function.

Apologies I cant direct which specific fuse but will try and look later to find out.
 
Hi,

as mentioned, the ECU and clocks are "paired" and communicate between each other to enable the engine immobiliser to function. If the clocks are "not present" (i.e. broken) or tampered (e.g. a unit from another car) then the immobiliser won't release even with a valid ignition key. The symptoms for this are that the engine will start but will be cut off after a few seconds run time. The key indicator on the clocks should also be flashing if there is an immobiliser fault (assuming that anything's actually working in the clocks).

If the electronics in the clocks have failed then you won't be able to run the engine and you would probably see other faults as well as no fuel gauge indicator etc.
The 2001 model year clocks don't illuminate the dials when the ignition is on, only when the lights are turned on, that was introduce in 2004 (or so) so not seeing the dials light up with the ignition would not be in itself an indication of a fault.
Some indicator lights are wired directly to the source, e.g. ABS, Alternator and so their illumination doesn't depend on the function of the electronics in the clocks. I am not sure about the glow plug indicator on the diesel as I have a petrol model, that may depend on communication with the ECU over the bus and so would fail if the clock electronics have failed.

Assuming you don't have a wiring fault or blown fuse and the electronics in the clocks have failed in some way, replacement with a new part isn't necessarily the only option available. Companies exist who perform repairs on existing units for much less than the cost of replacement. It may be worth perusing the repair route as this would be much less money than replacement.

e.g.

http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/product/audi_a2_dashboard_instrument_cluster_dac020013.html

I have included the link as an illustration. I haven't used this company to repair an instrument cluster, but they have repaired an ABS unit in the past for me.

regards

Andrew
 
Hi Jeff,

My life has been insane since we last met, so apologies that I haven't been in touch. (The same goes for everyone else waiting for my time).
Whatever you do, don't cough up even the £475 you've been quoted to fix the issue with second hand parts. If the diagnosis is correct, I can fix it for an awful lot less.
Where is the car now? How urgently do you need to get it running again? I've no time this week and am booked up over the weekend, but I'll probably need to head to Ripponden at some point next week.


Cheers,

Tom
 
Hi Tom,

Thanks so much for getting in touch. The car's at Halifax Auto Centre and there's no great urgency on my part to get it running and back on the road.

I'll ask the garage to check the fuses tomorrow (if that's not already been done) as PaulA2 suggested, but, assuming that doesn't prove to have been the fault, will ask whether I can leave the car there until sometime next week when you have time to take a look.

Cheers (says he with much relief!)

Jeff
 
Thanks for replying so quickly Paul. I'll ask the garage to check the fuses associated with the clocks as soon as it opens in the morning. Fingers crossed the problem's with those rather than anything more serious.

Thanks again,

Jeff
 
ajsellors said:
Hi,

as mentioned, the ECU and clocks are "paired" and communicate between each other to enable the engine immobiliser to function. If the clocks are "not present" (i.e. broken) or tampered (e.g. a unit from another car) then the immobiliser won't release even with a valid ignition key. The symptoms for this are that the engine will start but will be cut off after a few seconds run time. The key indicator on the clocks should also be flashing if there is an immobiliser fault (assuming that anything's actually working in the clocks).

If the electronics in the clocks have failed then you won't be able to run the engine and you would probably see other faults as well as no fuel gauge indicator etc.
The 2001 model year clocks don't illuminate the dials when the ignition is on, only when the lights are turned on, that was introduce in 2004 (or so) so not seeing the dials light up with the ignition would not be in itself an indication of a fault.
Some indicator lights are wired directly to the source, e.g. ABS, Alternator and so their illumination doesn't depend on the function of the electronics in the clocks. I am not sure about the glow plug indicator on the diesel as I have a petrol model, that may depend on communication with the ECU over the bus and so would fail if the clock electronics have failed.

Assuming you don't have a wiring fault or blown fuse and the electronics in the clocks have failed in some way, replacement with a new part isn't necessarily the only option available. Companies exist who perform repairs on existing units for much less than the cost of replacement. It may be worth perusing the repair route as this would be much less money than replacement.

e.g.

http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/product/audi_a2_dashboard_instrument_cluster_dac020013.html

I have included the link as an illustration. I haven't used this company to repair an instrument cluster, but they have repaired an ABS unit in the past for me.

regards

Andrew
Click to expand...

Thank you for your reply Andrew. As you'll have seen, Timmus has ridden to the rescue but your pointer towards the rebuilding option gave me much relief. The garage to where my car was recovered doesn't have its own auto electrician and the option of my original cluster being rebuilt, thereby avoiding the requirement for the garage to bring in an independent auto electrician to re-programme a replacement cluster, would undoubtedly have been a less costly route to follow. Incidentally, it wasn't that the cluster wasn't illuminated when the ignition was turned on; it was that the fuel gauge didn't move and the time/date and total mileage/trip miles didn't show as they normally would. I didn't notice the key indicator that you say would have been flashing but that's not to say it wasn't.....just that I didn't spot it. I'll ask the garage to check that as well as the fuses that PaulA2 mentioned.

Thanks again,

Jeff
 
Hi Jeff,

sorry for asking a silly question but i have have heard of someone with the exact problem as yours and it cost nothing to resolve it.

What happened was that he took the wrong key from his drawer. It was one fir his car but it was just a second key tgat he had bought and had the key blade made to match his car.

He only used this other key for emergencies (such as when he locked his keys in the car) so he never had the immobiliser chip matched to the car.

As i say, this is not likely to be the case for you, but no harm in mentioning it, just in case??

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
Hi Jeff,

sorry for asking a silly question but i have have heard of someone with the exact problem as yours and it cost nothing to resolve it.

What happened was that he took the wrong key from his drawer. It was one fir his car but it was just a second key tgat he had bought and had the key blade made to match his car.

He only used this other key for emergencies (such as when he locked his keys in the car) so he never had the immobiliser chip matched to the car.

As i say, this is not likely to be the case for you, but no harm in mentioning it, just in case??

Steve B
Click to expand...

Hi Steve,

Thanks for your suggestion. However, in my case, I only have the one key so the remedy is likely to be more costly.

By the way, if I had the financial resources to buy your A2 I'd be there like a shot; I'm amazed that it's not been snapped up by now.

All the best with the sale.

Jeff
 
If it is a cluster immo problem you could get the immo bypass on the ecu, try lee at more bhp should be well under half the cost and will prob remap at the same time in the price.
 
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