Intake manifold flap : V157 intermittent fault

marshy98

Member
Hi

So I have changed the coolant sensor and cleared the fault, alls good, went out today and the engine light is on, ran VCDS and have V157 fault, I have had this before, cleared and been ok.

Am i right in thinking the part below is causing the error code.

445F9266-1C71-4F3B-968E-81255398C005.jpeg

Regards

Paul
 
Could be.
Inside the housing there is a "half moon gear", and I bet you there's a tooth damaged or sheared/damaged/worn.
This will result in the valve not complete opening/closing and triggering the fault.
Do not buy a cheap (chinese)brand valve, it will not work on the ATL/BHC (been there, don't ask...).
What you can do is buy a repair set V157 gear, but before that a good clean and some fettling on the gear may keep your fault away......

link below, depending on requirement (p/n, type, etc.).





And here some pictures of a worn/damaged gear (my former ATL V157 valve):

[/URL]




Errr, we are talking Diesel here?
 
Last edited:
Oh, bless me, diesels have flap failure too?
The term 'manifold flap' is used by the diagnostic software, but is totally inaccurate when applied to the V157. In FSI world, the manifold flaps are actually inside the inlet manifold and are used to make air swirl upon entering the cylinders. The V157, which features only on BHC and ATL variants of the TDI, is an anti-shudder valve, primarily used to shut down the engine by means of oxygen starvation. It's not actually part of the intake manifold, but sits in the pipework that carries compressed air from the turbo.
The AMF variant of the TDI has a vacuum-actuated anti-shudder valve that's bulletproof, but the later TDIs use an electrically operated anti-shudder valve that has a number of failure modes. Thankfully, it's only a ten-minute job to change it.

Cheers,

Tom
 
The term 'manifold flap' is used by the diagnostic software, but is totally inaccurate when applied to the V157. In FSI world, the manifold flaps are actually inside the inlet manifold and are used to make air swirl upon entering the cylinders. The V157, which features only on BHC and ATL variants of the TDI, is an anti-shudder valve, primarily used to shut down the engine by means of oxygen starvation. It's not actually part of the intake manifold, but sits in the pipework that carries compressed air from the turbo.
The AMF variant of the TDI has a vacuum-actuated anti-shudder valve that's bulletproof, but the later TDIs use an electrically operated anti-shudder valve that has a number of failure modes. Thankfully, it's only a ten-minute job to change it.

Cheers,

Tom
Yeah,- my EML is on at the moment. It came on for a while the other day, had it scanned,- "Flaps"- I was told.... I hope, like you say Tom, that it's a ten minute job.... That'd be a relief..?
 
It’s one electrical connector to unplug
Then using a flat screwdriver lift up the large C clip that retains the induction pipe. The C clip lift up about half inch and the pipe can be slid out
Then 3 off Allen bolts either 5 or 6 mm Allen key required a long series Allen key makes the job a LOT easier
No gaskets required as there is a O rings in the face
Just watch out for some of the Chinese copies as they produce fault codes for fun

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It’s one electrical connector to unplug
Then using a flat screwdriver lift up the large C clip that retains the induction pipe. The C clip lift up about half inch and the pipe can be slid out
Then 3 off Allen bolts either 5 or 6 mm Allen key required a long series Allen key makes the job a LOT easier
No gaskets required as there is a O rings in the face
Just watch out for some of the Chinese copies as they produce fault codes for fun

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It only comes on now and again, it's not done it for a month or so... only happens in cold weather. I guess I'll get the kit if, one day,- it stays on...
 
Another member on here as the same problem but it got under his skin. He as spent a small fortune trying to solve a problem which puts the mil light on once in a wile
He can go for months and no mil the light then twice is two days
I think I have a way to prevent the mil light triggering on a specific fault code but waiting for this other member to be read to try out my fix. It’s a mod to the map

Cheers. Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Update to this thread. I do have a solution to the ASV fault code for the bhc or atl engines

Drop me a pm for more information

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Back
Top