Let’s talk about galvanic corrosion.

The corroded fasteners on the stainless exhaust hanger in the picture above were low milage Dacromet coated mild steel, probably grade 10.9 as used extensively in the factory on an A2. I have replaced them with A2 stainless which is less corrosion resistant than A4 stainless. I couldn't get A4 in the sizes I need and I don't know the grade of the stainless hanger components. A2 stainless has to be better than mild steel, there should be no galvanic corrosion between the hanger components and the stainless fasteners.
Here some Stainless steel grade info.

 
@Stan H that product looks good.

I watch of LR Time (23:32 minutes) on YT as the land rover discovery is also an aluminium body vehicle and they use a few types of galvanic corrosion inhibitors.
A company LR Time use for a spray grease called metaflux.
They make this product in their range for those of you who have mastered zinc coating bolts and the like.
I can't do zinc plating so their grease/spray oil would be better for me.
Could be of use on our A2 cars.
:)πŸ‘

EDIT: the grease @Stan H mentions is recommended for agricultural machinery and snow ploughs.
A snow plough has a hard old life.
 
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@Stan H that product looks good.

I watch of LR Time on YT as the land rover discovery is also an aluminium body vehicle and they use a few types of galvanic corrosion inhibitors.
A company for a spray grease called metaflux. They make this product in their range.
I can't do zinc plating so their grease/spray oil would be better for me.
Could be of use on our A2 cars.
:)πŸ‘
I have got into watching LR time too.
The humour is good too.
 
I think I will wind this thread up, it was about gaining an understanding. I think I now understand enough to be able to start a thread, how to avoid galvanic corrosion.

The thread has rambled a little and there have been times when I couldn't update as I didn't have access to a PC. so a quick summary of what I think I understand.

Corrosion of a metal occurs when exposed to moisture and oxygen. I understand it is a chemical process and it is not fast, aluminium dulls slightly and stops corroding, bare steel if left outside is subject to ongoing corrosion but it is slow. A steel component plated with passivated zinc left outside resists corrosion for many years. I have a coal bunker door clip that I plated that has been out there 7 years now and still looks respectable.

These nuts have been subject to environmental corrosion, the zinc coating may have been subject to galvanic corrosion which started where sockets used to torque the nuts damaged the zinc. Zinc on the underside of the flange is scuffed but there is no steel corrosion. Overall they are not bad for 17 year old automotive fasteners.

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Introduce an electrolyte between two dissimilar, they don't have to touch the electrolyte just needs to bridge the gap and galvanic corrosion is likely to occur. It has something to do with the flow of ions which is beyond me. However it does not stop at the surface and the rate of corrosion is not slow. Take a look at the depth of corrosion and the cycle mech hangers in this thread.

The nuts above were used to secure an aluminium component. The exposed steel was sufficient to cause galvanic corrosion of the surrounding aluminium, I'll see if I can get a picture. But where the nuts contacted the aluminium there is no corrosion, the electrolyte could not penetrate between the two components.

The above nuts are positioned at the rear of the car and subject to road spray but on the whole not galvanic corrosion. Just a short distance away are these. Mild steel securing stainless, the same age but subject to galvanic corrosion:

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I have concluded the way to minimise galvanic corrosion is first to choose component materials and surface treatments wisely and then keep electrolyte out.
 
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