Lower arms

C

Chiefmechanic

Active Member
Failed mot for rotten lower suspension arms. One changed with medium difficulty but the near side is a real pita. the end bolt broke in the alloy housing forcing me to take the complete housing off. I need a new bolt m12x1.5x100. Are these dealer only bolts Or can they be got from somewhere else. Brian
 
front axle, steering | Audi Audi A2 2005, track control arm, complete wheel bearing housing anti-roll bar F >> 8Z-3-019 682 1.4/1.6 ltr. AUA,AMF,BBY, BAD
5N 10141801
Cancelled since 01.05.2009		hexagon head bolt (combi)M12X1,5X100

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Front axle, steering Track control arm, complete wheel bearing housing anti-roll bar F >> 8Z-3-019 682 1.4/1.6 ltr. AUA,AMF,BBY, BAD for 2005 Audi Audi A2 Europe market
www.oemepc.com www.oemepc.com

front axle, steering | Audi Audi A2 2005, wishbone wheel bearing housing anti-roll bar F 8Z-3-019 683>> 1.4/1.6 ltr. AUA,AMF,BBY, BAD,BHC,ATL
9N 10141801
Cancelled since 01.05.2009		hexagon head bolt (combi)M12X1,5X100

1616532946490.png


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Front axle, steering Wishbone wheel bearing housing anti-roll bar F 8Z-3-019 683>> 1.4/1.6 ltr. AUA,AMF,BBY, BAD,BHC,ATL for 2005 Audi Audi A2 Europe market
www.oemepc.com www.oemepc.com
 
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Chiefmechanic said:
Failed mot for rotten lower suspension arms. One changed with medium difficulty but the near side is a real pita. the end bolt broke in the alloy housing forcing me to take the complete housing off. I need a new bolt m12x1.5x100. Are these dealer only bolts Or can they be got from somewhere else. Brian
Click to expand...
When I did this job I got the bolts from Audi. I found it to be a really difficult job. Plusgas is good stuff I've found since then.....good luck with the rest of the job.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Some of the threads in the housing are not as good as when new although another bolt with the same thread does screw into it. Just to be on the safe side I am going to fit a bolt 10mm longer into the housing to utilise the threads at the bottom of the housing that weren’t used before. I’ve run a tap down the hole to dress the threads up and looks good to me.
 
When searching for the M12x1,5x100 bolt, it looks like you can search for two different OEM numbers

N10141801

N10640301

1616535614300.png


Screw M12x1.5x100 Škoda N10141801

Screw M12x1.5x100 Škoda , Front stabiliser bolt, rear stabiliser., Škoda Fabia, Škoda Fabia 2, Škoda Octavia 2, Škoda Superb 2, Škoda Yeti, Škoda Roomster, Škoda Octavia 3, Škoda Superb 3, Škoda Kodiaq, Škoda Karoq
www.skoda-parts.com www.skoda-parts.com
 
Chiefmechanic said:
Thanks for all the replies. Some of the threads in the housing are not as good as when new although another bolt with the same thread does screw into it. Just to be on the safe side I am going to fit a bolt 10mm longer into the housing to utilise the threads at the bottom of the housing that weren’t used before. I’ve run a tap down the hole to dress the threads up and looks good to me.
Click to expand...
When I did this job, withdrawing that bolt brought the aluminium thread out with it. My local engine builder charged me a tenner to put two helicoils into it making it stronger than new and less at risk of seizing again. It was worth ten of my post-tax pounds. Good luck.

Mike
 
For reference in a DIY situation or workshop working where the part can't be clamped up in drill press / milling machine, Time Serts are much, much more forgiving than Helicoil style inserts. My experience of the latter is that the new thread insert (mini Slinky) jumps the internal thread and you end up with a portion of double spaced thread.

TimeSerts are solid although employ same principles, but are very easy to use in situ. I've rethreaded the side of a Panda 100hp block (engine mount) where access was so bad you could barely see to work. Results were still excellent and confidence inspiring.

Edit: I might have used the word 'thread' a bit too much there :rolleyes:
 
Glad the longer bolts have solved your problem. Can you tell me the part numbers of the longer bolts and where you purchased them?
 
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