MOT fail

[Dinnae Ken]

Just had the car MOT'd and what follows is the result. Gonna cost a pretty packet at the garage and wondering if, as a novice, what I could tackle myself and what, if anything, I should defo leave for the garage pros?

Car is A2 1.4 SE 120k on the clock. Keep it, sell it or scrap it?

Advice on best course of action appreciated.

Repair immediately (major defects)

1•Direction indicator incorrect colour Nearside Rear [4.4.3 (a)]
2•Direction indicator incorrect colour Offside Rear [4.4.3 (a)]
3•Brake pipe excessively corroded Nearside Rear [1.1.11 (c)]
4•Hydraulic brake cylinder leaking hydraulic fluid Nearside Rear [1.1.16 (b) (i)]
5•Brake pipe excessively corroded Offside Rear [1.1.11 (c)]
6•Anti-roll bar pin or bush excessively worn Nearside Front [5.3.4 (a) (i)]
7•Anti-roll bar pin or bush excessively worn Offside Front [5.3.4 (a) (i)]
8•Suspension arm corroded and seriously weakened Offside Front [5.3.3 (b) (i)]
9•Service brake efficiency below requirements [1.2.2 (a) ()]
10•Parking brake efficiency below requirements [1.4.2 (a) (i)]
11•Brakes imbalanced across an axle Rear (Axle 2) [1.2.1 (b) (i)]
12•Parking brake inoperative on one side Nearside [1.4.1 (a)]
13•Service brake effort inadequate at a wheel Nearside Rear [1.2.1 (a) (i)]
14•Headlamp aim too low Nearside [4.1.2 (a)]

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories)

1•Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Front [0.1 (b)]
2•Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Nearside Front [5.3.3 (b) (i)]
3•Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases Front [6.1.2 (a)]

 

[Audimad]

Just had the car MOT'd and what follows is the result. Gonna cost a pretty packet at the garage and wondering if, as a novice, what I could tackle myself and what, if anything, I should defo leave for the garage pros?

Car is A2 1.4 SE 120k on the clock. Keep it, sell it or scrap it?

Advice on best course of action appreciated.

Repair immediately (major defects)

1•Direction indicator incorrect colour Nearside Rear [4.4.3 (a)]
2•Direction indicator incorrect colour Offside Rear [4.4.3 (a)]
3•Brake pipe excessively corroded Nearside Rear [1.1.11 (c)]
4•Hydraulic brake cylinder leaking hydraulic fluid Nearside Rear [1.1.16 (b) (i)]
5•Brake pipe excessively corroded Offside Rear [1.1.11 (c)]
6•Anti-roll bar pin or bush excessively worn Nearside Front [5.3.4 (a) (i)]
7•Anti-roll bar pin or bush excessively worn Offside Front [5.3.4 (a) (i)]
8•Suspension arm corroded and seriously weakened Offside Front [5.3.3 (b) (i)]
9•Service brake efficiency below requirements [1.2.2 (a) ()]
10•Parking brake efficiency below requirements [1.4.2 (a) (i)]
11•Brakes imbalanced across an axle Rear (Axle 2) [1.2.1 (b) (i)]
12•Parking brake inoperative on one side Nearside [1.4.1 (a)]
13•Service brake effort inadequate at a wheel Nearside Rear [1.2.1 (a) (i)]
14•Headlamp aim too low Nearside [4.1.2 (a)]

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories)

1•Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Front [0.1 (b)]
2•Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened Nearside Front [5.3.3 (b) (i)]
3•Exhaust has a minor leak of exhaust gases Front [6.1.2 (a)]

KEEP IT!!

 

[robskiA2tdi]

most of bits are related to rear brakes - drum type, so new drums new shoes and pipes check, 2 front wishbones left and right and most issues sorted, weekend job for diy but could be costly in garage - ask around for rear drum brakes fix for start

 

[simufly]

Not too bad IMO.
The only thing that I would be VERY concerned about is #8. I assume the car has pressed rather than cast arms. This is NOT a DIY job for a novice. You really need help with that one and do both sides at the same time because if one has bad corrosion the other will almost certainly be the same. Get a VW specialist to do it. I would recommend WOM but they are along way from you.
4,12,13 are all connected, so sort out the leaking cylinder will cure all three. The brake pipes are tedious but not too difficult.
ditto front ARB.

 

[Robin_Cox]

Those are all easy jobs that I've had done on our cars by our friendly garage in Lochee barring the front arms (and I have a pair of cast arms in the garage ready to go on in the next year).

1 & 2 - pair of yellow light bulbs
3-5, 9-13 get a (ie. Febi Bilstein / Pagid etc.) new rear drum kit fitted and new brake lines made up when those are fitted (any mechanic worth their salt can do this) along with getting the handbrakes balanced up when put back together.
6&7 Febi Bilstein ARB bush / bracket / possibly drop link kit
14 - should be easy enough to resolve

So - a quick bit of online shopping would get the parts for most of those in half an hour if that.

As noted above, probably the most critical items above are #8 and (advisory) #2 - one serious and one advisory front arm. The cast polo parts work for these, although as has been noted on occasion recently, new pressed A2 ones given a good spray with Waxoyl or a similar corrosion treatment should last a good number of years given that the originals have lasted nearly 20 years.

 

[Dinnae Ken]

Thank you all for the replies. Really useful and encouraging info. Basically all doable apart from the suspension arms. I'll get cracking on with as much as I can and then seek help for the tough bits, cheers

 

[donp38]

All straight forward with exception of wishbones...they can be a pain and need some planning and some muscle!
£250 in parts... maybe 4hrs labour at a garage?

 

[JavaGreen]

Just had similar job done…. complete front suspension and front/back breaks overhaul with some brake pipes thrown in. Cost about £1200 includes some of the parts supplied by me.

The wish bones caused the garage problems as they had been on since new.

 

[Sylvester]

I'd recommend gping to another garage as well, to see if they come up with the same. It worth asking for more than 1 opinion for sure, but it'll cost another mot fee of course.

 

[Dinnae Ken]

Just had similar job done…. complete front suspension and front/back breaks overhaul with some brake pipes thrown in. Cost about £1200 includes some of the parts supplied by me.

The wish bones caused the garage problems as they had been on since new.

Ouch!

 

[JavaGreen]

Ouch!

Seems a lot however:

2 x wishbones
2 x struts
2 x springs
2 x top bearings
2 x rotors
front brakes
rear brakes overhauled and parts as reg’d
new rear brake pipes

Should keep it good for several years.

intend on new rear shocks/springs and whatever else the rear needs next mot.

Incidentally, it did not require all of that work… I just decided that since the wishbones are getting done might as well replace the rusty or unsightly components to make it all new

 

[vagdream]

I'd recommend gping to another garage as well, to see if they come up with the same. It worth asking for more than 1 opinion for sure, but it'll cost another mot fee of course.

As I understand the current rules and process, if you take a vehicle to another test station after already receiving a major or dangerous defect report these items will automatically be shown up to the second test station.I do not believe any level of 'discretion' is then an option.

 

[PlasticMac]

*

As I understand the current rules and process, if you take a vehicle to another test station after already receiving a major or dangerous defect report these items will automatically be shown up to the second test station.I do not believe any level of 'discretion' is then an option.

Indeed, having had a "Repair Immediately" surely you have no MoT, regardless of any unexpired time left on the previous MoT.
Mac.

 

[Little Dog]

Thank you all for the replies. Really useful and encouraging info. Basically all doable apart from the suspension arms. I'll get cracking on with as much as I can and then seek help for the tough bits, cheers

Suspension arms are DIY too. Quite straightforward providing the bolts are not corroded solid.

The only thing I could not DIY with confidence is the beam alignment. I'd park it in front of the garage door, mark a cross with masking tape and lower the aim. Having gone that far my tester would tweak it during the test at no charge.

 

[Howey]

As I understand the current rules and process, if you take a vehicle to another test station after already receiving a major or dangerous defect report these items will automatically be shown up to the second test station.I do not believe any level of 'discretion' is then an option.

You may think so but no, nothing at all shows on the testing system only if the tester decided to take it upon themselves to check mot history which we have no reason at all to do so.

 

[Dinnae Ken]

Thanks for the additional info. I will definitely be completing all the work as per advised on the MOT. Don't see any point getting a 2nd opinion. Best to just get it all done and kept in good working order

 

[Dinnae Ken]

Finally got to this stage and have discovered how bad the rear drum was.

I have managed to obtain all the parts apart from the break pipes. Audi don't have them, discontinued. Neither do Europarts. Any suggestions where to get good quality rear break pipes?

 

[audifan]

Your local garage should have a competent mechanic that can copy your original brake pipes. Try to get kunifer pipes as they are better.

You can make your life easier if you remove the hub ( new nut needed on refitment ) a puller is normally required. This makes fitting fully built up rear brakes a doddle. Correct slave cylinders have a step in the end where the shoes are actuated. This step must face the backing plate so the shoe is between the backing plate and the step on the cylinder pistons.

 

[Dinnae Ken]

I'm planning on removing the hub, just need to get the correct tools tomorrow.

I was looking to do the break pipes myself as I will have all the bits off anyways. I'm fitting these along with new Pagid Drums.

 

[audifan]

If you have the tools and time then yes you can make the replacement pipes yourself. Just bear in mind what I said about using Kunifer pipe.