New wheel bearing ( not going well )

So having put new brakes all round I needed new wheel bearings doing and having spent all day yesterday trying to release the drive shaft out of the hub with no joy even heating it with a blow torch. I have now had to remove the drive shaft and carrier to go get it on the hydraulic press to see if that will separate them.
 
I ended up getting a piece of alloy bar and used that so it didn’t do any damage to hub or drive shafts
still took a bit of time and a good few whacks with a 4 pound hammer then it started to move
I’m sure they put locktight on it when it’s put together hopefully this helps u
 
Strange; normally there is grease so the axle is easily retractable once the hub bolt is removed.

Have the axle been removed before and no grease was added so the axle rusted firm to the bearing?

The above is valid for Touran at least.
 
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My TDi drive shafts were glued and solid with rust. One came out with a good whacking from a hide hammer and the other needed a big hub puller. The manual states these should be bonded and therefore I assumed grease free. I cleaned all the rust off and tried to bond and seal to prevent future water ingress

How did you get on with the press?
 
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I understand Olerype and I'll see what I can do. I have a Mk2 Golf; grease it and torque it to 230Nm and that is going nowhere. However it will come off again if you have a 3/4 drive long breaker bar.

A2 no chance; glue, use nut with barbs, torque to something quite insignificant then let it rust for 5 years; nightmare situation when it comes to getting it off.
 
Few pictures added. Well after 12 ton on the press it’s finally out. Looks like some bright spark glued it in with Epoxy resin after crossing the nut bearing come out easy. Have now had to get a new CV joint.
 

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Why have you cooked it?
Clean it up and stick it (literally) back correctly. No point in spending any more than you need to.
12T nice, Big Bang?
 
My plans for replacing all 4 bearings just got complicated..

Is this the same regardless model/engine?

I thought the bonding of the CV to flange was a requirement for TDi cars only. My manual however applies to 1.4 petrol and diesel engines and does not differentiate; it only specifies the above procedure.
 
The old pressed-steel nut (which I love, just because it is incredibly light and a whacky design, but Audi say they have to be replaced with the 12pt nut :( ) had a much lower torque setting. This guide may be useful:

https://translate.google.co.uk/tran...un.de/wiki/index.php/Gelenkwellen&prev=search

I'm using Loctite 660 on the splines, which is overkill, but I got a tube of it off ebay for not much money and it's in date; SKF CV joints which are very nicely made and pre-loaded with grease (not seen that before). Hopefully I'll never have the need to remove them again!

Some of the comments in this thread are also worth reading. I like some of the home-made tooling, especially the puller using a sawn off brake disc :eek:
https://translate.google.co.uk/tran...in-radnabe-einkleben-oder-fetten/&prev=search

@Graham2704 - My old CV joints and wheel bearings were not in good condition. I didn't have as much trouble as it sounds you are having, although they still put up a fight. Lots of evidence of fretting between the two, so I am following the Audi manual and using the Loctite. The old bearings were shot. No sign of any shield for the ABS ring either, which I am fitting as I rebuild.

IMG_7937.JPGIMG_7930.JPG
 
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Not too sure on the condition of my hub my new Neighbour said he could take it off and took it into work to do.

My neighbour is a CNC machinist (Tool maker) .

I shown him a YouTube video about the special tool for removing the bearing everyone says is needed. He ONLY WENT IN WORK ON SUNDAY and made one exactly the same. We fitted the new bearing into the carrier was a real easy job. (He is now my new best friend ).
 
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