Omg how many fault codes!!! Updated.

J

JimmyJam

Member
Managed to get a vcds lite. Done a full scan, and oh my god. Where is the nearest bridge to jump off. Depressed ?
Hopefully someone can advise or big problems. @timmus
Thank you
 

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Clear the faults go for a drive and see what comes back, most of the intermittent issues should go away I'd imagine then can chase what is left, some look like potentially a faulty or soon to be faulty CCCU or dead battery at some point, but nothing major?
 
Where did you clear the DTCs from? Try going into each module in turn and delete the codes from there. Can get a better clearing of errors doing it that way rather than just clicking on the clear codes after the scan has performed. Once complete turn off the ignition and remove the key, then drive the car and perform another scan. Your brake lights are all working correctly I take it?
 
That'll be one of things to check then, could be sensor/connector or wiring as it is reporting no communication to sensor, but intermittent ones are likely due to battery having been flat at some point, as it keeps those historic codes, not sure for how long.
 
audifan said:
Where did you clear the DTCs from? Try going into each module in turn and delete the codes from there. Can get a better clearing of errors doing it that way rather than just clicking on the clear codes after the scan has performed. Once complete turn off the ignition and remove the key, then drive the car and perform another scan. Your brake lights are all working correctly I take it?
Click to expand...
Yes brake lights all work
 
audifan said:
Where did you clear the DTCs from? Try going into each module in turn and delete the codes from there. Can get a better clearing of errors doing it that way rather than just clicking on the clear codes after the scan has performed. Once complete turn off the ignition and remove the key, then drive the car and perform another scan. Your brake lights are all working correctly I take it?
Click to expand...
With VCDS Lite, registered or not, there is no clear all errors function. You must go into each controller, and clear errors controller by controller.
Mac.
 
Also @audifan I scanned it with the auto scan button. And after finishing, clear dtc codes is greyed out. It only allows you to click clear which I assume just clears the text on the page.
 
You'll be surprised how many faults dissappear and also how many of those are common - nothing to worry about codes - with an easy fix. HVAC ones are on nearly every a2 for example. Good luck and report back progress ?
 
Sorry also with regards to my abs light and traction control always on, do any of these codes correlate to that fault.
Also asr button doesn't do anything. I replaced the switch too.
 
JimmyJam said:
Also @audifan I scanned it with the auto scan button. And after finishing, clear dtc codes is greyed out. It only allows you to click clear which I assume just clears the text on the page.
Click to expand...
With VCDS Lite, registered or not, there is no clear all errors function. You must go into each controller, and clear errors controller by controller.
Mac.
 
JimmyJam said:
Sorry also with regards to my abs light and traction control always on, do any of these codes correlate to that fault.
Also asr button doesn't do anything. I replaced the switch too.
Click to expand...
I would guess that the ASR wont work unless all the abs function are correctly working.
 
JimmyJam said:
Also asr button doesn't do anything. I replaced the switch too.
Click to expand...
CrispyEdd said:
I would guess that the ASR wont work unless all the abs function are correctly working.
Click to expand...
ASR only works to reduce wheelspin at low speeds - I believe, up to just 25km/h (16mph) - so you'd never normally have any use for it. You would activate it at rest or barely moving on snow or ice, it helps you to get traction and then it automatically turns off once you get to that cutoff speed. It will work off the ABS signals from the front wheels and use the ABS itself to brake a spinning wheel. If the ABS module isn't playing ball due to any fault in its own system then it really doesn't seem likely that ASR will work.
 
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Yes I agree. I assume traction control light on dash means turned off. So in my case its off all the time. As soon as I start driving, beep beep beep and exclamation mark, as a warning for abs and traction control light in dash.
I have pressed the ASR buttton while driving but doesn't do anything.
 
ASR works all the way through to 100km/h (at least I've had it flashing at around that point). EDS works without showing a light to move power from one side to the other. ASR automatically turns on again at 60km/h if you turn it off. Turning off the yaw sensor will also disable ASR.

Essentially, this sounds like the wheel rotation sensor has gone... that would explain an awful lot.

. Bret
 
I've got totally the wrong end of the stick, haven't I :oops: Apologies for any confusion. ASR is ESP/traction control. You can turn it off at low speeds in order to allow a start with wheelspin e.g. on snow/ice. It turns back on automatically at higher speeds. I've certainly had the light flashing and the outside front wheel being braked around one particular bend in one of my A2's, which doesn't upset the other one in the slightest. That makes me suspect a wheel sensor too - possibly not quite seated correctly and going out of range as the bearing is being pulled in the hub by the G-forces.
 
The ASR traction control light stays on all the time or at least comes on after the first 3 yards of driving with a beep warning sound. No matter what speeds I do pressing the ASR button doesn't do anything.
Also I cleared a few codes tonight and will scan again and post up results.
But at least 3 of the faults would not let me clear them at all.
 
Some critical errors will not clear until the fault has been resolved. As you realise several systems interlink on the A2, so a fault in one could flag as faults in other modules..

Just be methodical with the diagnosis. Powers and earths are always the starting point, then damaged wiring or connectors including corrosion. Any sensor can fail. Even the better quality original ones to the car are now 17 years old at the youngest. Nothing lasts forever, then you add in the numerous owners that have dabbled and done things on the cheap over the years. Eventually things just have to be done correctly.

Do not get too disheartened, keep trying to rule items out as you progress. Two years to get an A2 back into shape is not unusual.

In the end the dogs dinner can become the dogs ⚽ ⚽
 
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