Passenger electric window (complex issue)

[carbore]

Hi,

My passenger side electric window is not working, I have tried a number of things but its still not working. Ill explain.

The passenger side window isn't working, in fact all windows other than the driver side were not, but that was lack of use so with a bit of silicon spray and gentle work with a paint scraper I freed them up. The passenger side wouldn't play so I assumed that due to my kids keeping the button pressed down to try to open it, it had burned out the motor or something in the motor assembly. I did check here first and saw about disconnecting the batter for a while, so I tried that but no luck / So I order a replacement off eBay.

Fitted the replacement and its just the same :-(

The replacement does click when I activate the switch on the passenger side. I also attempted to run it not fitted to the wider so that I was sure the mechanism in the door isn't bound up and the motor does not run.

I also "bench tested" the original motor unit by removing the motor side and powering it from a PSU and that motor runs. Interestingly the unit had a lot of swarf in, so that's "interesting".

So, maybe the new unit is also faulty, but I don't understand why both units click on the door switch but then dont seem to activate the motor.

One possible silly issue is the switch to prevent the (rear?) windows opening is faulty and wont latch I think tis allways illuminated so the (just rear?) windows wont action. Note the passenger window also wont activate from the switch on the drivers side.

Im now clutching at straws, like the CCU on my car was replaced with a later one due to the parasitic drain issue a few years ago when I got it so now im starting to wonder if I ever used that window (im sure i did, kids etc)

I have VCDS and cant see anything there, Im completely out of ideas?

 

[FinallyFiona]

@timmus?

 

[timmus]

In short, I suspect this is a wiring issue. It could be that a fuse has blown (there are multiple 12V feeds to the door control module, of varying current-carrying capacity), or that there is corrosion at the pillar connector, or a broken wire within the rubber concertina, etc.

I’d start by checking voltages at the main connector that feeds the door control module.

Cheers,

Tom

 

[PlasticMac]

If you haven't already, spend 7 euros for an hour on audi erwin, and download the electrical schematic.
And may be the workshop manual while you're there.
Mac.

 

[carbore]

Fixed.

It was the wiring between the door post and module. The + had failed for the high current feed for the motor (red/black & brown pair). It was a bit of a nasty one to find as it wasn't fully broken so made continuity just, but when I wobbled the loom with the meter on it was failing. I replaced the wire and now its all fine. Fiddly, but done.

 

[simon martyn]

Well done indeed, because otherwise it's a trip to see St. Timmus in darkest Lancashire. Always a pleasure, but not exactly next door.