Problem with starting……

mrbroons

mrbroons

Well-Known Member
Evening all. It’s been ages since I’ve been on the forum. Hope everyone is well?

Tonight I needed to go out and start the car (currently on Sorn) to move it in the drive and it didn’t want to start. I started the car a few weeks ago and all was fine but the cold must have zapped what is left from the battery.

So I put on another battery in parallel to give it a boost and still no start. Turn over but no start.

I have two keys and both worked. Now one of them opens the car but the immobiliser light keeps flashing and the second works as you’d expect with the immobiliser light going off after the initial handshake. Neither however let the car start. Constant cranking but no start?

Any thoughts?

Cheers

MrB.


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Remove the battery from the car and give it a full charge first. When reconnected pair both keys. Now try to start the car keeping an eye on the immobiliser icon. Low voltage causes all sorts of issues so lets see what happens.
 
Thanks Howey, can you let me know what I should be looking for? Temps are -4 outside so I’m guessing coolant will be ambient.

Cheers

MrB


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Did not hear the fuel pump run in the video. Check all the fuses especially those for fuel or engine. May be a fuel pump issue? Or the immobiliser is still active. Can you temporarily code out the immobiliser? Car "would" then start although the immobiliser icon will flash. Any clues from a full VCDS scan?

Thinking fuel supply, injectors or ignition.
 
Hi. Thanks for the checklist. Much appreciated. Just completed a VCDS and it’s now somewhat apparent although doesn’t look fun.

a745db44c9edc23a7fc00fdc3b60e08a.jpg

c208fc95679f858681fd125b5733ce78.jpg


Thoughts on where to start?


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Lambda I knew of as it threw this 3 weeks after its MOT and service 11 months ago (it’s gone less than 100 miles since).

The others are new and the lack of comms to the ECU is worrying! It’s running a ProBoost ECU btw, I may try replacing it with the original as a first step.


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The coolant temp when faulty often defaults to - 40 so can really make starting difficult especially when it's a hot day (sadly not right now)

No communication, I would be looking for a blown fuse, if all OK I would question the instrument cluster
 
I think check fuses and replace the ECU with the original are good starting points. It’s -5.5c outside at present so not one for now but I’ll get back to it tomorrow and may do another video on it. Thanks for the suggestions so far. Much appreciated.

MrB


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I had an issue on FSi with cold starting which was not due to a -40 default temp but exactly the opposite, with the thermostat recognising a high temp but no equivalent reading on the temp gauge.
 
mrbroons said:
Hi. Thanks for the checklist. Much appreciated. Just completed a VCDS and it’s now somewhat apparent although doesn’t look fun.

a745db44c9edc23a7fc00fdc3b60e08a.jpg

c208fc95679f858681fd125b5733ce78.jpg


Thoughts on where to start?


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Click to expand...
The ECU is obviously OK, as it's detected the fuel rail pressure sensor problem.
I'd suggest you update the VCDS Engine label file to the FSI specific one.
If you have full VCDS, there's a download on here, if you're using Lite, PM me Subject "BADLite" and I'll send it to you.
Then check fuel rail pressure with ignition on, engine off, to check electric pump, and then with the engine running, to check the HPFP.
Mac.
 
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