Quest to healthy A2

U

Un4tural

Member
Hello All,

1.4 TDI 2001 year UK. had for a bit over a year now, lots of fun to drive and certainly has some personality, tend to drive like i stole it though so probably not doing any favors there, still haven't missed a beat or let me down (other than the battery which was of drinking age when i replaced it prior to this winter). 156k miles! SW London

Been lurking for a while as there's a ton of useful posts regarding various issues and queries, thought i'd add to it and see about sorting my old girl out. Any advise is very welcome.

#1 priority - Main issue at the moment, following a full service it seems Turbo gets disabled (works after restarting car), this occurs at specific RPM (redline in 3rd gear, about 3.7k rpm in 4th and 3-3.1k rpm in 5th gear). Does not seem there is power loss etc. in general, though quite annoying as i am limited to about 80mph. Few times after pulling to driveway once turbo got cut off there was a clicking noise like a flap or switch was stuck flapping.

01 Engine

System description: 1,4l R3 EDC 0000SG 1281
Software number: 045906019G
Coding: 00002

Trouble codes:
P1557 - Charge press. ctrl. Control limit exceeded
Intermittent

Will check tubing for leaks and inter-cooler first, as well as air flow sensor as other posts mentioned air flow sensor needing a clean seemed to match description of issue best.

Could i have some advise on rough location of the vacuum etc. tubing and how much i can get to without ramp/lift/axle stand (looking at it seems to be in/out both left of engine)? Looking to purchase either axle stands or a drive on ramp, so any recommendations are very welcome.

Does not seem to be load dependent when it cuts off, just does it at those specific RPMs in 3rd 4th and 5th gears (was going down hill on way to Gatwick and it cut off at same point when foot was almost entirely off pedal) .

Fault developed after 2nd service, same garage.

#2 ABS Sensor, i am assuming it will be the wiring loom, as with a replacement sensor still having error (reading the posts here i knew sensor was a long shot) a fault developed after first MOT/Service carried out since i got the car.

03 Brakes

System description: ESP 20 CAN V015
Software number: 8Z0907379B
Coding: 10758

Trouble codes:
00283 - Left front ABS wheel speed sensor
static
00283 - Left front ABS wheel speed sensor Signal outside tolerance
Intermittent

#3 Leaky hydraulic pump - will likely get a used working one and swap it, added some lucasoil stop leak for power steering and it did improve performance and made leak less, power steering is noticeable less "easy" than with other A2s i've been in, and with the additive there is an improvement making steering feel quite a bit lighter (though i do like "less" power steering)

#4 Another thing to tackle will be new undercarriage covers which will definitely require some sort of ramp/lift, both front plastic covers/under bumper and aluminum mid covers are rather tattered.

#5 Passenger door hinge appears to be broken, after a check the bolts holding the lever mechanism are missing and the rod is just banging against the speaker bracket plastic, if anyone know bolts and nuts required for this please recommend, otherwise next time i open driver side panel i'll get the measurements. Also general tidy up needed to replace missing/broken clips for interior door trim.

Headlights had a clean, however rubber seals around headlights as well as for bulb replacement cover and around the headlight seal (the two sides coming together) are rather perished, i am not seeing any for sale on ebay etc. while i can probably use a silicone sealant for the clamp seals, however not sure about the rubber cover from the outside that goes between light and body panels, as it is splitting/flaking.

#6 Replaced my comfort module, and will try and fix the original, it would not lock either of rear doors, seems to be the siemens relays that have failed and no longer click, though it might be other components. Something to faff about with.

#7 Find and Check aircon "high pressure" sensor as it flags up a fault during scan, check auxilary diesel burning heater, as it takes a while to heat up, though no fault codes (about 10min into the drive in the mornings). Scan also brings up a fault with read driver door not locking, though it locks/unlocks without any issues.

08 Air Conditioning

System description: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT 0406
Software number: 8Z2820043

Trouble codes:
00819 - High pressure sensor Short circuit to ground
static

---That is my rough laundry list to sort out which seems quite a lot when i put it out there, however most things were there since i bought it (143k miles, one owner) and didn't bother me much. Will try and document as much as i can with pictures for reference.


Plus few other sensors:


System description: W1-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D13
Software number: 8Z0920950
Coding: 09430

Trouble codes:
01039 - Engine coolant temperature gauge sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B+
Intermittent
00771 - Fuel level sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B+
static

46 Central Module Comfort System

System description: Komfortgerát TBD 1210
Software number: 8Z0959433AF
Coding: 06859

Trouble codes:
01370 - Alarm triggered by interior monitoring
static
01562 - Right rear door does not unlock
static
01562 - Right rear door deadlock does not engage
static
 
intercool especially the bottom were the plastic end cap meets the aluminium stack is the most likely culprit for the turbo boost issue
A VAGCOM recording of the data would be good as you can monitor the boost pressure at the point of limp mode

By passenger door hinge do you mean the hinge or the check strap - I suspect if the door is opening and closing without dropping its the check strap. I do reconditioned check straps which as better than Audi's at £25 + £3 postage with a £20 deposit which is returned when I get your old strap back. Let me know if you would like one

Cheers,
Paul
 
Microswitch is probably gone on the driver's side rear door. Lock disassembly / replacement required.

Coolant sensor is probably the G2/G62, it's a relatively simple fix and requires a litre or so of g12++, a new sensor, and a new o-ring.

"aluminium plates" underneath are heat shields. You are opening up a world of pain - have an alternative way to fix them back to the body.

- Bret
 
depronman said:
intercool especially the bottom were the plastic end cap meets the aluminium stack is the most likely culprit for the turbo boost issue
A VAGCOM recording of the data would be good as you can monitor the boost pressure at the point of limp mode

By passenger door hinge do you mean the hinge or the check strap - I suspect if the door is opening and closing without dropping its the check strap. I do reconditioned check straps which as better than Audi's at £25 + £3 postage with a £20 deposit which is returned when I get your old strap back. Let me know if you would like one

Cheers,
Paul
Click to expand...

will check the inter cooler first, i think my odbc2 scanner can display boost pressure so will see if i can get a read out. Would have assumed the pressure would be same under load (foot to floor) no matter the gear.

And for hinge it is the check strap, it has 2 bolts that hold it to the door, both of which are missing.



Thanks Bret,

"aluminium plates" underneath are heat shields. You are opening up a world of pain - have an alternative way to fix them back to the body.

Once i get a way to get under the car i'll be fine, I'm sure i can find ways to pop them in place. will see what the brackets look like and plan to likely use some aluminum strips to anchor it/screw it in place. Seems i caught some speed bumps bit harsh and bent one of them (plus it was rainy, probably the small lakes did not help either as that was when i lost one of them, though could hear it scrape before hand). looked like holes in the shield itself were ripped off from the rivet/screw.
 
Un4tural said:
will check the inter cooler first, i think my odbc2 scanner can display boost pressure so will see if i can get a read out. Would have assumed the pressure would be same under load (foot to floor) no matter the gear.

And for hinge it is the check strap, it has 2 bolts that hold it to the door, both of which are missing.



Thanks Bret,

"aluminium plates" underneath are heat shields. You are opening up a world of pain - have an alternative way to fix them back to the body.

Once i get a way to get under the car i'll be fine, I'm sure i can find ways to pop them in place. will see what the brackets look like and plan to likely use some aluminum strips to anchor it/screw it in place. Seems i caught some speed bumps bit harsh and bent one of them (plus it was rainy, probably the small lakes did not help either as that was when i lost one of them, though could hear it scrape before hand). looked like holes in the shield itself were ripped off from the rivet/screw.
Click to expand...

The original check straps had aluminium rivets (look like large pop rivets) that held the two parts of the check strap together, mine have these replaced with stainless steel bolts and the plastic rollers replaced with brass rollers
 
The heat shields are held by steel pins that rust and also corrode the aluminium especially underneath (I suspect that like a lot of A2 fasteners they are steel with a special coating to stop contact corrosion when touching another and different metal. If exposed the coating can break down).

I described how I fixed mine here https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...the-weather-heat-shield-another-thread.30852/

Good luck sorting the other error codes. I agree the ABS sensor is likely to be the loom. With the more stricter MOTs you need to get any dash warning lights sorted.
 
Afraid I'm no help with your issues. Just nice to know there's another keen A2-er in SW London.
 
depronman said:
The original check straps had aluminium rivets (look like large pop rivets) that held the two parts of the check strap together, mine have these replaced with stainless steel bolts and the plastic rollers replaced with brass rollers
Click to expand...

driver side has steel bolts in there when i had it open (bolt+ nut, anodized by the look of it though i might be wrong as it was good 3 months when i was mucking about in there, had to pop back the power window switch and replace driver side motor for power window). Passenger side had them missing entirely, didn't find any knocking about in the door panel either so was a bit puzzled. Will open up driver side panel again as it needs some clips which were broken replacing and grab one of them to measure.

@Alan_uk i've seen your post and it is very helpful as at least for me when i have a rough idea what i am dealing with helps a lot, will need to get my axle stands or ramps and will definitely tackle that, hopefully it's not too bad but this being England i am not holding my hopes up. will need to do whole front plastic cover as well, as that is cracked up to hell too, will likely go find a scrap yard or someone breaking an A2 for those bits. the heat shield quite scraped up and pretty sure piece i lost was half torn off from bit that is still hanging on.


Edit: @bretti_kivi those temperature sensors seem to be few quid for a replacement, so ordered one and will pop that in when in the mood, seems simple to access/replace so might as well do it next time i find the time.
 
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so i kept an eye on inlet manifold pressure and it is between 100kPa on idle and 252kPa full throttle high rpm, though it seems to stop at 250kPa and stay there over about 3.5k rpm until turbo stops, when i stopped there was a prominent clicking sound from engine bay like the door lock relay, just a lot louder.

without the turbo pressure maxed out at about 225kPa, anyone know what these should be at?

on some further reading golf/polo forums all state that fault code is due to VNT turbo being clogged up and needing a clean as it is not closing/opening sufficiently. did not get the chance to go feel up the plumbing hopefully tomorrow.
 
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As yours is a 2001 car it will have the AMF engine with 75bhp, this has a maximum boost of 2.1bar, so the figure you are seeing is higher and is being detected by the ECU which is then limiting the fuel supply to prevent any damage.
The VNT turbo is only fitted to the 90bhp engine so that won't be your problem, the issue is likely to be caused by a leak in the pipework, my money is on the intercooler.
 
I have the same issue with overboost/ loss. You can pretty much boot it as hard as you like until 2500 rpm, its when you hold it in gear and the turbo spools up where the boost pressure gets to it highest and the ecu subsequently restricts boost.
Going to have a nose at it tomorrow, wife is off out so have a poke about. Might take some photos as well! Got a feeling its going to need a new IC, eBay has been eating my reserves over the last week since I bought the car....
 
I've got an old intercooler if anyone needs one, no problem with it as far as I know - I replaced it with a Timmus intercooler last year.
 
hi Trevor
I would like the intercooler if still available, one of mine is starting to leek at the bottom

Cheers,
Paul (Depronman)
 
Right after a fairly quick touchy session, due to a hole in the underside cover can reach in to bottom of where intercooler sits and can feel a fairly nice breeze there.

Now question is, do i need axle stands for the job and how much of the car i'll need to take apart? just the bumper or will i need to delve deeper? i am hoping i can patch it up otherwise i will probably need a whole new hose or intercooler. Anyone have some good tips? forums have a guide for replacing the intercooler, would i essentially need to follow that or can i hopefully take less bits off?
 
Hi, I have a 75 TDi that has also had a stack of problems. The only common fault though is the heat shields.
I suspect you may be able to change an intercooler without stands, just. However you are going to need them for other jobs. I use stands for working on brakes etc but prefer ramps for working under the car. Unfortunately A2s scrape on standard ramps so I have sports car ramps which are much longer with a gentle slope to drive up.
 
so will go and do the intercooler either this weekend or next, axle stands inbound.

i do not have a replacement belly cover (undercarriage) which seems like it might be nice to do as mine in tattered (the exhaust for heater fell off, in the boot now...). Is there anything else that would be worth doing while I'm in there?

Plan to do the coolant temp sensor, will check belts and things while there as there is a bit of a plastic on plastic rub when idle and i rev up, not sure what it is. had a look at coolant and it does not sniff right, looks more like water and has some alien things growing at the cap.

As replacement sensor for 00819 - High pressure sensor Short circuit to ground costs 30quid on fleabay i'll opt to feel the cables first and test for breaks just in case. Unless someone is breaking one and have bits i can buy (undercarriage cover, heat shields, aircon high pressure sensor 8E0959126 for aircon)

Might opt to do the harness bit for ABS sensor and just have a sniff around first before tackling the intercooler as it seems like at least good 3 hours of rolling around on the driveway, more if i need to replace the intercooler which hopefully is just the hose. Nothing else comes to mind at the moment, still waiting for coolant sensor to arrive and few other bibs.
 
Well took a while longer than i was hoping to get around to do a bit of fiddling, havent gotten around to intercooler yet as weather looks cruddy and rather not have engine bay soaking in water.

Did check the sensor and wires to connector for ABS and loom seems fine, checked with sensor plugged in as well for resistance etc. and reading is same when measuring directly at the sensor and at ABS plug. This might spell the end of this A2 as i doubt it'll be worth the hassle replacing ABS controller...

Did a scan with and without the sensor plugged in and getting the 00283 error with it plugged in and without, though with it plugged it scan displays signal outside tolerance where when unplugged it just seem to show 00283 error.

There is also another wire that seemed to be just shorted out, presumably brake wear sensor? I dont see how this would cause the error though. Nasty and corroded so i re-soldered it to stay shorted. I'll attach a picture at a later time.

did wiggle the cable with multimeter connected too and it seems to have continuity ok... feeling rather sad with the findings :(
 
Have a look at the rear of the wheel bearing as this contains the segmented abs ring( looks like stripes) as this can collect brake debris so masking the segments, should wipe away with a spray of brake cleaner & a cloth.
Also check Ecutesting.com reliable cost efficient service with a lifetime guarantee!
Keith.
 
kp 115 said:
Have a look at the rear of the wheel bearing as this contains the segmented abs ring( looks like stripes) as this can collect brake debris so masking the segments, should wipe away with a spray of brake cleaner & a cloth.
Also check Ecutesting.com reliable cost efficient service with a lifetime guarantee!
Keith.
Click to expand...

I'll definitely give it a shot, thanks, sadly i am a bit limited on how much i can tackle both time and tools wise as this would be a bit much to leave on the side of road if i need to send it for a rebuild etc. plus the other issues, not getting a good feeling anymore, was really hoping for loom issue at this point.

Will have a look and update once done, probably saturday-ish as not to stumble in the dark.
 
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