Retrofit false floor?

[timmus]

Part 18A is the plastic hinge part of the false floor itself. You don't need to buy it as it comes as part of the floor.

33 is a captive nut and 26 is the bolt (Torx40, if I remember correctly). You'll find that your car already has the captive nuts fitted in most of the holes, though they may be hidden behind the bitumen sound-deadening stuff (that you'll need to completely remove). You'll need about 10 of the bolts (part 26), but none of part 33.

Cheers,

Tom

Just to correct myself, the bolts mentioned are Torx45, not Torx40.

 

[GuruX]

I got the stuff you see in the photos earlier, at home now! The floor actually looks better than in the photo. <- Amazed this really happends.
Has anyone got a photo or two of the brackets mounted? Without the plastic support trims. I think I've undetstood how they should be mounted, but a little extra help is always welcome. If everything goes my way, I'll write a guide for the retrofit aswell.

 

[GuruX]

Retrofit now done! Colour match, good enough.
Went pretty well, but as Timmus said, getting the panels with the cutouts is worth the money. Cutting the side panels is a lot of work. They are hard to cut, even with a good knife.
You might also want to get some M8 nuts and washers for the support brackets. Not completely sure, but around eight is needed. 14 screws is needed in total.
I was a little surprised to see so much flexing in the floor after the mounting was done. Is this the case with original floors aswell? I'm getting a spare 14" wheel to put under the floor, in the future. I guess there is less flexing with the wheel beneath the false floor.