Stereo & speaker replacement questions...

[Miniblob]

Ok, thanks.
Got plenty of better speakers, just want a mount for them!

I'll have to check the rears then, might be able to at least get a working pair in the front temporarily!!!

Checked an online 3d printing place and the online instant quote was £55 each!!!
I've emailed another place to see if they can do any cheaper!

I wouldn't mind the cost so much if I knew they were actually going to be a good fit!

 

[bretti_kivi]

RCA through under the passenger side covers is probably the easiest way. They pull out from the front and then you can work backwards.

 

[Azim]

Anybody got a picture of the front door speakers and inner panel they are mounted to .

 

[Andrew]

Anybody got a picture of the front door speakers and inner panel they are mounted to .

Easy enough to find, as always more fruitful to use Google.

Search Google with 'a2oc speakers' to generate hits and click the Images tab in the options bar below the search box.

Hope this helps.

Andy

 

[Azim]

Easy enough to find, as always more fruitful to use Google.

Search Google with 'a2oc speakers' to generate hits and click the Images tab in the options bar below the search box.

Hope this helps.

Andy

Ive already tried .
Pics on google are really low quality .

 

[Andrew]

Ive already tried .
Pics on google are really low quality .

In what sense?

You can always go to the original by clicking an image of potential interest, followed by 'Visit' to land in the thread it came from and finding it.

Andy

 

[audifan]

Here are a couple of pictures..

The metal inner structural panel that the speakers mount to.

Bare door..Note the door is a right hand and the metal panel is a left hand.

 

[Catnip64]

Ok, thanks.
Got plenty of better speakers, just want a mount for them!

I'll have to check the rears then, might be able to at least get a working pair in the front temporarily!!!

Checked an online 3d printing place and the online instant quote was £55 each!!!
I've emailed another place to see if they can do any cheaper!

I wouldn't mind the cost so much if I knew they were actually going to be a good fit!

Might be worth contacting @depronman as he has 3d printer and may be able to give you a better price for the speaker mounts.

 

[spike]

Ok, thanks.
Got plenty of better speakers, just want a mount for them!

I'll have to check the rears then, might be able to at least get a working pair in the front temporarily!!!

Checked an online 3d printing place and the online instant quote was £55 each!!!
I've emailed another place to see if they can do any cheaper!

I wouldn't mind the cost so much if I knew they were actually going to be a good fit!

Not sure how far the project progressed but Bret was offering custom speaker adapters in this old thread -

https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/165mm-speaker-adapters-for-front-or-rear-doors.44670/post-416841

Cheers Spike

 

[Miniblob]

Project is ongoing - hoping to at least get the headunit replaced on sun/mon with some standard speakers working in the front.
Doubt I'll get as far a sub, but you never know!!!

Might give depronman a shout then - I'm going to be after one of his wipers soon too!

Wonder if Brett is still offering those adaptors???
I could make some, but it's just time I really dont have!!

 

[Miniblob]

Did take some door/speaker pics to help me come up with a plan - don't know if I can just attach them here...

 

[bretti_kivi]

i haven't got a workshop at the moment (going to be working on that at the weekend), and I'm out for 4 of the next 6 weeks in Europe, so I don't really have time. The resonance was also not particularly high..

If you can find the 3d printed stuff, they may well work for you provided the baskets aren't too deep and the magnets aren't too big. What those measurements are is another story.

 

[Miniblob]

No problem Brett, thanks for the reply!

Depronmam is going to have a look at the file when he gets a chance!

Also found another place that would charge just under £75 for a pair!

 

[Miniblob]

So I had a brief moment today to have a play about...
Old stereo out - someone has clearly been in there with a screwdriver in the past.
I presume the 'face' is not meant to pop off of the concert 2?

Replaced the cupholders - would've been easy, but someone's been there before as well!!! Glue everywhere - bit of heatgun action and realised it's holding in the hazard switch (mainly) where someone's broken the tabs before! Sorted now!

As for the stereo - should've believed what I read on the internet!!!
The facia adaptors are indeed not the correct fitment. Can probably modify them the do the job, but I paid to avoid making my own.
Also, the wiring harness is not a lot of good either.
So the concert 2 has three chunky plugs in the back, the adaptor only has room for two! Plus the red one for rears - but that's not right and doesnt even fit!!!

So a few wiring questions, now I'm assuming I'll have to butcher the bits I bought to make my own....
I started writing it all out, and it got too complicated, but basically I want/need to know what all the Audi wires do, so I can wire it up correctly!
I'll add some pics to show what's there, but basically the bits that fit the new lead don't seem to connect the right things to the right pins - if they even connect at all!
(the brown audi connector looks like power, but only fits to the iso speaker leads? That black one that doesn't fit at all, looks like the Audi speaker wires?)

Oh, and whats the little yellow cable? Looks to be the same connection as my dab aerial?

Not the quick job it should've been!

 

[Miniblob]

Ah, idiot - only just realised there's a diagram on top of the old stereo!!!

 

[Kleynie]

As you’ve probably gathered by now you don’t need all the cables. You need com and RR/LR to power the rear speakers, these must go to the RCA outputs from your new head unit, and the blue cable from your head unit should be used to power the rear amp (next to the Com on the concert 2). You don’t need the CAN or data out cables as they are for the DIS which the aftermarket HU will not be compatible with. The front speaker cables should be obvious, then you just need negative and positive on the same plug as Bose.
Then you just need to pick up the ignition and illumination from elsewhere as mentioned earlier in the thread.

 

[Miniblob]

Thanks mate!
I managed another quick look (between putting the boy to bed and it getting dark!)
Using the old pen and paper and checking the diagram on the old stereo against the new cable, I think I'm there!
It's the extra/unused wires and different colours that threw me.
So the new adaptor looks like it will work.
Just needs the switched live for the rear amp connected to the h/u amp remote, the ignition/switched power and illumination.

I presume I'll need to take out the climate panel to get to the white wire behind and likewise the cubby below to get to the ashtray light.
How do they release? I'll have a google.

My only other question remains - what is the small yellow connector??? It is really part of the aerial system? Will it work for DAB reception?
The connector looks right, but I can't believe this car would've had provisions for DAB!!!

 

[Kleynie]

No idea about the yellow connector, looks like Nav - do you have the nav buttons in the handbrake tray? (Long shot). We did not have the yellow connector, so you must have something fitted that requires it.
The climate panel is on spring clips and just pulls out. The cubby is the same and pulls out to reveal two screws that hold the ashtray in.

 

[Miniblob]

No nav buttons on mine!
There are nav & tel pins noted on the diagram for the red plug on the old stereo, but nothing connected to them!
It's to the side of the connector plugs, nearer the aerial socket - I'll give it a try and see what happens, before I run my own aerial in.

Thanks for that - hoping to get a chance to do this tomorrow afternoon.

 

[PlasticMac]

As you’ve probably gathered by now you don’t need all the cables. You need com and RR/LR to power the rear speakers, these must go to the RCA outputs from your new head unit, and the blue cable from your head unit should be used to power the rear amp (next to the Com on the concert 2). You don’t need the CAN or data out cables as they are for the DIS which the aftermarket HU will not be compatible with. The front speaker cables should be obvious, then you just need negative and positive on the same plug as Bose.
Then you just need to pick up the ignition and illumination from elsewhere as mentioned earlier in the thread.

I think the blue cable (switched 12V from the radio) doesn't actually power the rear amp, just kicks it out of standby. The 12V out of the radio is low current (150 mA ish). The amp runs from high power permanent 12V.