Stupid Audi fixings - help

dan_b

dan_b

A2OC Donor
I bow to the wisdom of the forum...

I was installing the 1.2TDi aero mods on my cousin's A2 today. Front lip spoilers and sub-frame spoilers went on fine, but the tunnel cover has caused a problem.

The last two nuts at the back both sheared off even though I'd sprayed and soaked them with WD40 for a good length of time beforehand.

So at the moment, the tunnel cover isn't held up at all at the back. I'm worried it'll flap about!

Can anyone suggest a solution for fixing up the final two fixings of the tunnel cover? Do I drill out the old corroded "screw" and attempt to screw something else in? Any other ideas?

What is it with Audi and cruddy fixings...
 
Dan,

Unfortunately I've got a bad cold so off to bed, therefore can't search for you, but Tony posted a method of repairing these fixings when he posted about his efforts installing the 42ltr fuel tank.
I hope you locate the post.

Cheers

Jeff
 
Cheers. I think there's a Machine Mart in Twickenham, will try it in the morning. Failing that I wonder if I can bodge something with cable ties for the time being?
The amount of corrosion on those rear fixings is shocking I have to say, and they're so badly designed. Argh.
 
These fixing are stupid. I'm missing a few and so can't (yet) fit the tunnel cover. :mad:
 
The trouble with the fixings is that the stud is steel and the nut is alloy, so you get bi-metallic corrosion sets in and rots the steel at the point of contact with the nut. There's nothing you can do to prevent it, other than remove the studs and replace with stainless A4 grade.

Cable ties work wonders and rather than go down the Machine Mart route getting a riv-nut tool, a better solution for a long-term repair is to route out the plastic setting and then using an epoxy adhesive, set in a new threaded stud. Tricky, time consuming and a job for the summer months.

Cheers,
Mike
 
Skipton01 said:
...a better solution for a long-term repair is to route out the plastic setting and then using an epoxy adhesive, set in a new threaded stud.
Click to expand...

Sorry Mike, forgive my ignorance, but what exactly is the solution you're suggesting?

Cheers,

Tom
 
I've put cable ties in in place of the final two fixings too, hopefully should do the trick.
 
For those that dont or wont get a rivnut tool,
and,
for those who want a more elegant solution to a cable tie ...

Washers.JPG

available from Audi

Part number N 953 350 05 - washer.
They are used to secure the sound damping against the firewall and if you have a mm or two of stud left these are the best option and can be "screwed" in or out. ;)

blue skies
tony
 
Another tale of woe from me today about Audi screws and bobbins.
Was attempting to replace yet another blown H7 Halfords Extreme (won't be buying those again!) and was going to do my usual trick of unscrewing the two screws that hold in the cluster, pop it out through the wing and hey presto, easy access for the bulb swap.
Only problem was the longer bolt was corroded in and I gave it too much torque before realising and stripped the Torx head.
So my double question is
1. how do I get that long screw out?
2. what's the Audi part number to replace it with a new one once I do?!
 
Dan, were you using a torx head that rounded it? Anyway, try a slightly larger hex bit and hammer it in (well, gentle tapping). If not, a slightly larger torx might be easier to tap in. Otherwise, use hacksaw to cut a straight line (space is limited on that screw though) and use a large flat blade to unscrew.

Part number is I think is N 10483101 for the long screw.
 
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