johnyfartbox
A2OC Donor
Must be mad, going to try to take off the fuel filter on the breaker this afternoon, at least we are under cover, snowing here at the moment. Got a little blower heater ready, its bladdy cold out there..........lol
I think that using that method will probably get to the gunge better, it will be the last few ml of fuel that has the gunge in.That's exactly what I was thinking Steve. just needed it confirming really, thanks.
Best and fastest way to drain the tank would be to syphon the fuel using the hole where the fuel float sensor is, correct?? or is there another way?
Great news !!!!!!
Steve B
An when you break the screw on the fuel filter housing you know were to come for an aluminium replacement
It certainly as the symptoms of fuel starvation so the fuel filter the first place to start, then the lift pump / tandem pump
Paul's aftermarket improved screw fits directly into the original housing. I'd get one and have it ready for when you're doing the job - if the old screw breaks, you're sorted with a better than original replacement. If it doesn't, you can then decide which one to replace. Having seen the finished screw in the flesh, it's a lovely piece of craftsmanship and will work superbly.Hi Paul
Im in a similar boat to Jonny i.e loss of power and am thinking of replacing fuel filter eliment your replacement screw, will this screw straight back into the existing housing or will I need to buy a new housing?
If I just need the screw can you send me one please?
andy
John, whilst I agree that it saved the cost of a new filter housing I cannot agree that it is a good or acceptable long term solution. Firstly there are no O rings on the bolt, the O ring on the bolt serves to seal the fuel system. Without the O ring there is likely to be either fuel leakage or air ingress into the fuel system. Secondly there is no water drain hole in the metal bolt, this is needed to allow water to be drained from the fuel system, the fuel filter is the lowest point in the fuel system and as such is where water will settle (diesel is lighter than water), the small hole is there to allow the water to be drained out of the system periodically by undoing the bolt a few turn until fluid is running out of the hole, water will come out first and then diesel. Once the water has been removed the screw is tightened up (2.5nm) and you are all doneI also thought that, but it's not a bad bodge, it saved a few bob on a new housing.
yes my replacement screw fits directly into the existing housing, just take the O rings off the original plastic screw and fit them to my aluminium screwHi Paul
Im in a similar boat to Jonny i.e loss of power and am thinking of replacing fuel filter eliment your replacement screw, will this screw straight back into the existing housing or will I need to buy a new housing?
If I just need the screw can you send me one please?
andy
John, whilst I agree that it saved the cost of a new filter housing I cannot agree that it is a good or acceptable long term solution. Firstly there are no O rings on the bolt, the O ring on the bolt serves to seal the fuel system. Without the O ring there is likely to be either fuel leakage or air ingress into the fuel system. Secondly there is no water drain hole in the metal bolt, this is needed to allow water to be drained from the fuel system, the fuel filter is the lowest point in the fuel system and as such is where water will settle (diesel is lighter than water), the small hole is there to allow the water to be drained out of the system periodically by undoing the bolt a few turn until fluid is running out of the hole, water will come out first and then diesel. Once the water has been removed the screw is tightened up (2.5nm) and you are all done
So, whilst the metal bolt is a temporary solution to get you going when the screw is broken it is certainly not a long term solution.
Cheers,