TDi Sump Support & Gearbox Removal

T

TFG

A2OC Donor
Quick query: Is it ok to support the TDi engine with a block of wood and a jack under the sump when removing the gearbox?

Anything else I should look out for?
 
It’s not the Audi workshop manual method, but that’s the way I did it and most amateurs seem to do it successfully. Just take care of the exhaust bottoming out on things and straining the flexible part, also I guess don’t jack under the oil level sensor. Things get pretty crowded under there when you have 2 jacks (including a trolley jack for the gearbox) , a pair of axle stands plus yourself in a small space.
Good luck.


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The sump is pretty sturdy so with plenty of wood it's fine to support the engine and gearbox weight. RH driveshaft can be a pig to remove - there is a little flywheel inspection plate at the rear of the engine - if you remove that it makes it a lot easier.

Simon.
 
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Thanks. Right now, I'm developing a rather unhealthy loathing for the ends of the two gear change cables :( They seem to get in the way of just about everything. That, and the barmy routing of the ABS pipes. One can tell this engine wasn't originally designed for the A2....
 
Driveshafts were already off as I've been rebuilding them and the rest of the suspension. Had a bit of a hiatus while I sourced a JDD 'box. Got one now, so good to go :)
 
How do I get the gearbox mount to clear the two small pipes that run down the inner face of the NS chassis leg? The gearbox is now free of its dowels, but still on the clutch shaft (and the trolley jack). What's the best angle/direction of exit for the gearbox? Sub frame and all suspension is off; steering rack tied out of the way. I was going to take the bolts out that hold the mount to the gearbox, but it doesn't look like there's enough clearance to the chassis leg.
 
sco said:
The sump is pretty sturdy so with plenty of wood it's fine to support the engine and gearbox weight. RH driveshaft can be a pig to remove - there is a little flywheel inspection plate at the rear of the engine - if you remove that it makes it a lot easier.

Simon.
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Hi Simon - having spent a while swearing at the OS output flange and wishing it wasn't there when I was getting the gearbox off, I now understand what you were talking about :oops:. By the time I realised, I'd given in and removed the flange. Now I've got a clearer view, I can see the small plate you were talking about (held in place by the 10AF bolt in centre of shot). What a stupid design. I really do wonder about some bits of the A2. The bodyshell and body engineering are a work of art. The installation of some of the mechanical and suspension components however leave a lot to be desired.
 

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TFG said:
How do I get the gearbox mount to clear the two small pipes that run down the inner face of the NS chassis leg? The gearbox is now free of its dowels, but still on the clutch shaft (and the trolley jack). What's the best angle/direction of exit for the gearbox? Sub frame and all suspension is off; steering rack tied out of the way. I was going to take the bolts out that hold the mount to the gearbox, but it doesn't look like there's enough clearance to the chassis leg.
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I removed the gearbox mount then lowered the gearbox down a few inches, the box then comes free as it goes under the chassis rail. Personally I remove the drivers side drive shaft flange as it makes removal and refitting the box a LOT easier, and its easy to get to to pop it back in place after the box is back in situ
Cheers,
Paul
 
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