The End?

Sarge said:
Hi Mike, very sorry to hear that Tank is ill. Wish I could help. It sounds like turbo related to me, hope its a relatively simple fix. I only have TDi 75 engine block with 100k on it I think, it does need the oil chain and tensioner replacing.
Let us know how it's going.

Sarge
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Can only agree with sarge here. I had mine replaced last month as a precaution and there was significant wear on the cogs and bracket . Worth doing at the same time if you do have turbo issues.
 
Problem with one injector? That would explain the white smoke. A broken turbo, or more specifically a broken turbo shaft would mean leaving a smokescreen of brown smoke such that you wouldn't be able to see anything in your rear mirror except smoke! The rattling would be explained by the engine more or less only working on two cylinders, nothing more.

RAB
 
Blocked injector or injector wiring issue as @RAB states is a very likely explanation for the "limp mode". Lets hope that is all that has happened and a full scan will identify that and fuel trim also will confirm injector issue just not if it is the injector itself or the notorious injector wiring loom that has failed. BEST OF LUCK and my fingers are crossed for Tank.
 
Right, I've had a chance to look under the bonnet and there's remarkably no signs of anything amiss. Engine cover off (well, the little bit of fibre-board!!) and popped open the cam belt top cover and the belt is fine and still under tension, so that is promising.

A scan showed 2 faults -

17964 - Charge Pressure Control - P1556 - 35-00 - Negative Deviation
16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) - P0101 - 35-00 - Implausible Signal

So, it appears that the turbo is the main culprit.

Tentatively started the car and to my pleasant amazement, he fired up first time although there's a lot of rocking, so I am thinking that there may be a cylinder out and/or the DMF has let go too.

I'll mail WOM and get Tank down to them and take it from there.
 
If it's the turbo then its not a good idea to start it up, as the may be debris flying about and getting into cylinder and doing damage. Could use an inspection camera for a quick look into the cylinders.


Sarge
 
Yes, I realise that running isn't generally to be recommended at the moment, but I was curious as to whether he'd start or not - I certainly wouldn't take the risk of running for more than the 10 seconds or so that I did.

I may well pop out the glow plugs and see what my little endoscope can see tomorrow - maybe not a lot through such a small aperture, but it may be helpful to know if there is anything there.
 
Hi Mike,

Nice to read you're still around - not so nice to read about Tank.

Your explaination of the events immediately following the loss of power does seem to suggest a turbo shaft failure, however the rocking of the engine when fired up could be a symptom of a broken oil pump chain tensioner, and the balance shaft now out of synch.
The clattering noise is also an indication of a failed chain tensior, as the chain will be flailing about.

You'll know the dangers associated with a broken chain, and the greater difficuly to repair if the chain does break.

Fingers crossed for a fix ASAP.

Cheers
Jeff
 
Hi mike,

Always a shame to hear when a Tdi is poorly.

I had fault code P1556 on my blue A2 and had symptoms when cold trying to accelerate every time would go into limp mode obviously shutting turbo down and running souly on engine. To cut a long story short I changed my intercooler and fuel filter which fixed cold acceleration and shuddering at motorways speed.
You have different symptoms though so I’m scratching my head.
Ross
 
Just a thought, Lots of white smoke from exhaust may be a symptom of head gasket leaking into a cylinder & soot being blown out as a result of steam cleaning the cylinder?

Failure description very similar to mine last month, but on inspecting timing belt at home after being recovered I’d lost 30 teeth off the section of the belt that was hidden.

Best of luck with repairs

Keith.
 
A broken turbo shaft would produce a local acrid "pea-souper" as there is nothing to prevent engine oil from getting into the exhaust. A quick way to check the turbo is to remove the air intake; a broken shaft will result in severely distorted blades which are clearly visible once the connection is removed. The shaft always breaks at the same point where there is a deliberate reduction in diameter. Also bear in mind that a mechanical problem with an injector won't necessarily raise a fault code.

RAB
 
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Again @RAB is correct a mechanical issue with an injector will not always raise an error code especially if it is open. So not taking anything away from @RAB answer I am just trying to explain it a little more with a couple of extra pointers. VCDS fuel trim will show the differences in the injector fueling and help pin point an injector, but it could still be the injector loom. Not an expensive job especially as you will probably have the cam cover off to check valves and injectors. The rough running after one cylinder going down is very similar to the roughness you get when a glow pug is not working on cold starts, although in that case the other cylinder comes on line as it heats up. If an injector mechanically or electrically fails the air pressure and the fuel pressures get upset and this is probably the source of the error codes you have. By now with the extra running I would expect turbo debris in the top of the engine. whereas if an injector fails open the engine will over fuel, lots of temporary black soot and 33% loss of power. Pull off induction pipes to see the turbo blades, if the shaft has gone you can feel it when you rotate the blades. Only other variable is the EGR again VCDS shows the duty cycle of the EGR. So remove pipes inspect by eye then borescope as many areas as possible. Assuming nothing found best bet is to run and scan the above. But any other unusual noises, switch off immediately.
 
Morning all.

Bearing in mind the fault codes, I think it very likely that the turbo has gone. There could also be an injector fault, but I suspect that it's likely to be limited to the turbo with possibly some swarf in the top end of the engine. There could also be DMF issues.

However, I really don't have the time or the space any longer to embark on investigation work - I have a 5 month old child who rightly deserves my full attention, so I've contacted WOM and will see what they can do. Having seen photos of their work, you can't help but be impressed with their expertise and attention to detail.

Even if I did embark on investigating things myself, I'd have to then put things back for Tank to be transported to WOM, so in this case, even though I have full diagnostic kit, I think it's best not to run the car any more and to leave it to WOM.
 
It’s looking like tank gets to live again !

Let’s hope the bill is not going to lead to Tank being put down ...

Please keep all the interested watchers posted on progress, Tank was an early trend setter for mods , and should remain so !

Regards Mark
 
Thanks all.

Yes, I've been in touch with Rob and will be arranging to have Tank recovered to WOM either later this week or early next, when they'll have a good look into the issues and then we'll formulate a plan to get things back to the way they should be.

I will of course keep the forum up to speed on progress and rest assured, Tank won't be being put to sleep over this, although I don't have a bottomless bank account, but then I really don't think that the issues will be as severe as yours were Mark.

I have all the parts ready to go in the garage for Tanks next mod, but time is in short supply with a little person around!
 
Now you can hopefully enjoy a nice run up to Xmas with the family. You know what to ask Santa for :D
 
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