Today I.....

Cleaned out my tool chest. image.jpgimage.jpg
 
Tomscar said:
Just another little job completed today on my 2002 1.4 BBY project Resurgam.
Aligning the sub-frame assembly to the chassis.
Guide pins arrived from eBay (£15 including p&p), the tools are at the ready and off we go:

View attachment 64192

Essential Torque wrench, axle stands, extra jack and grease for the pins.

View attachment 64193

1. Disconnected the bottom joint between the drop links and the anti - roll bar.
2. Loosened the four new bolts that thread through the sub-frame, consoles and hold the steering rack in place, they weren't torqued yet and maybe didn't need to do this but I didn't want to risk swinging on anything when the car was on the axle stands should I have needed to at a later stage.
3. Loosened the four console stretch bolts that were only partially tightened when I installed the new arms (18mm socket).
4. The car was then jacked up onto axle stands and the four bolts that hold the console in place were removed.
5. The sub-frame is now free to move in any direction you wish, it's still connected to the car via the dampers and steering joints and moves around easily.

View attachment 64194

6. There is enough 'give' in the assembly to be able to carefully push down on each front wheel allowing enough room to insert the four guide pins. The flat edge of the taper sits in the centre of the hole (and not as shown in the first picture, the taper should be the other way round) and the 6 mm hex head bolt screws into the captive nut to hold it in position. Tighten to 20 NM as per instructions.
7. The hard bit is almost done ... I found it easier to jack the sub frame upwards into position and protected it with a piece of timber ... it was not difficult to manoeuvre the assembly around and basically the console holes will slot and position over the taper on the guide pins. Keep jacking the assembly upwards until all the gaps are closed and they will align themselves with the pins and in theory the correct position. Possibly easier if you have a second person to simply jiggle and hold the sub-frame in place ... but a second jack worked fine.
8. Take each guide pin out in turn and replace each with a new stretch bolt. I tightened to 70 NM at this stage until the torque wrench clicked..
9. Reconnected the drop links and tightened the four steering rack bolts that were loosened earlier.
10. Back on four wheels and stretched each of the four console bolts a further 90 degrees.
11. Job done ... and they look centred and vertical, always a good place to start!!

View attachment 64195

Looking good and ready to roll!!
Steering alignment to check when I take it for a test drive and then make sure all the bolts have remained tight.

View attachment 64196

Next job is to replace the rear coolant pipe, thermostat and housing, only just ordered the parts and will tackle it when they arrive.
Thanks for reading and hopefully it may inspire someone to do this simple and satisfying job. Regards from Tom
Click to expand...
The guide pins are meant to go through the subframe consoles before the subframe is fully loosened. Remove 2 bolts replace with guide bolts then the other 2 ,this is to pin the position of the subframe to prevent the need for wheel alignment after repair.The outer of the guide pin should be the same diameter as the subframe bolt holes the collars allow for off centre movement.Hope this helps for next time.?
 
Kustard83 said:
The guide pins are meant to go through the subframe consoles before the subframe is fully loosened. Remove 2 bolts replace with guide bolts then the other 2 ,this is to pin the position of the subframe to prevent the need for wheel alignment after repair.The outer of the guide pin should be the same diameter as the subframe bolt holes the collars allow for off centre movement.Hope this helps for next time.?
Click to expand...

Hi Kustard83, thanks for the info, yes that makes sense ... in hindsight it would have made the job easier if I had the pins before I first changed the arms although I did scribe around each console and tackled one side at a time as you have said and didn't lose position ... this was more of an experiment really to see if it made any difference to the position of the consoles after lining up the holes and it seems to have landed on the scribe marks anyway, so if nothing else I am more confident in the German engineering ... all looks pretty square at the minute but will update when it gets a drive ... the thermostat housing and rear coolant pipe is off at the minute and waiting for new parts to arrive, hopefully next week. I will post the adventure when it happens ??
 
... (well, yesterday), I started thinking on how to get my first A2 (not SHE) equipped with cruice control. I had removed this stalk from an VW Sharan on a breaker yard earlier, and now I had to make the harness from the new stalk to the engine ECU.
_20200515_100459.JPG
 
Joga said:
... (well, yesterday), I started thinking on how to get my first A2 (not SHE) equipped with cruice control. I had removed this stalk from an VW Sharan on a breaker yard earlier, and now I had to make the harness from the new stalk to the engine ECU.
View attachment 64312
Click to expand...

It’s a simple loom to make up as long as you have the connector that fits into the stalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Tomscar said:
Just another little job completed today on my 2002 1.4 BBY project Resurgam.
Aligning the sub-frame assembly to the chassis.
Guide pins arrived from eBay (£15 including p&p), the tools are at the ready and off we go:

View attachment 64192

Essential Torque wrench, axle stands, extra jack and grease for the pins.

View attachment 64193

1. Disconnected the bottom joint between the drop links and the anti - roll bar.
2. Loosened the four new bolts that thread through the sub-frame, consoles and hold the steering rack in place, they weren't torqued yet and maybe didn't need to do this but I didn't want to risk swinging on anything when the car was on the axle stands should I have needed to at a later stage.
3. Loosened the four console stretch bolts that were only partially tightened when I installed the new arms (18mm socket).
4. The car was then jacked up onto axle stands and the four bolts that hold the console in place were removed.
5. The sub-frame is now free to move in any direction you wish, it's still connected to the car via the dampers and steering joints and moves around easily.

View attachment 64194

6. There is enough 'give' in the assembly to be able to carefully push down on each front wheel allowing enough room to insert the four guide pins. The flat edge of the taper sits in the centre of the hole (and not as shown in the first picture, the taper should be the other way round) and the 6 mm hex head bolt screws into the captive nut to hold it in position. Tighten to 20 NM as per instructions.
7. The hard bit is almost done ... I found it easier to jack the sub frame upwards into position and protected it with a piece of timber ... it was not difficult to manoeuvre the assembly around and basically the console holes will slot and position over the taper on the guide pins. Keep jacking the assembly upwards until all the gaps are closed and they will align themselves with the pins and in theory the correct position. Possibly easier if you have a second person to simply jiggle and hold the sub-frame in place ... but a second jack worked fine.
8. Take each guide pin out in turn and replace each with a new stretch bolt. I tightened to 70 NM at this stage until the torque wrench clicked..
9. Reconnected the drop links and tightened the four steering rack bolts that were loosened earlier.
10. Back on four wheels and stretched each of the four console bolts a further 90 degrees.
11. Job done ... and they look centred and vertical, always a good place to start!!

View attachment 64195

Looking good and ready to roll!!
Steering alignment to check when I take it for a test drive and then make sure all the bolts have remained tight.

View attachment 64196

Next job is to replace the rear coolant pipe, thermostat and housing, only just ordered the parts and will tackle it when they arrive.
Thanks for reading and hopefully it may inspire someone to do this simple and satisfying job. Regards from Tom
Click to expand...
Do you have a link to the ebay ad for the guide pins please
 
simufly said:
Do you have a link to the ebay ad for the guide pins please
Click to expand...

Hi simufly, I got mine from here but there are others available:
www.ebay.co.uk

Subframe Alignment Locating Pin Bergen 4pc VAG Set Suitable for VW AUDI 6189 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Subframe Alignment Locating Pin Bergen 4pc VAG Set Suitable for VW AUDI 6189 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk

All the best ... Tom
 
depronman said:
It’s a simple loom to make up as long as you have the connector that fits into the stalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yes agree, and I took the 10pin connector and 20cm of cable with the stalk when working at the Sharan. But as mentioned on this forum, connectors from inside front doors seem to be identical too.
 
simufly said:
Much obliged!
Simon
Click to expand...

Good luck Simon, not as daunting a job as I was expecting but good advice from 'Kustard 83' above ..... if you haven't removed the consoles yet then take out each of the bolts in turn and simply screw the locating pin in it's place and you have the position locked in the current position. It becomes more obvious when you take the consoles off why you even need to mark the position .... basically the bolts screw into a square nut that floats inside the chassis in a plastic holder, very clever engineering and gives enough adjustment to line up the sub frame assembly.
You can get away without using the pins if you scribe around the consoles first and mark the positions, you shouldn't upset anything too much if you do one side at a time as the sub frame doesn't move if one side is still bolted up, that's how I done it initially.
All the best ... Tom
 
Today I..........filled up Momentum 99. I know it’s a rubbish thing to report however what was notable was that I paid 106.9p per litre which was 21p less per litre than the previous fill. ?

Driving home however (2.9 miles) of which 0.7 miles up hill and 1.1m level and 1.1m downhill and finally reverse up a long drive up hill. The car achieved 69mpg with potential range of 640 miles.

Whilst the journey is not representative of what I’d get on a tank more like 450-550 miles, it’s good to know it’s possible to get high mpg figures. Sooo looking forward to a road trip to an A2 meet.

35C91F32-F691-4AB1-B90B-915383CEBDB5.jpeg
 
Jeetesh said:
Today I..........filled up Momentum 99. I know it’s a rubbish thing to report however what was notable was that I paid 106.9p per litre which was 21p less per litre than the previous fill. ?

Driving home however (2.9 miles) of which 0.7 miles up hill and 1.1m level and 1.1m downhill and finally reverse up a long drive up hill. The car achieved 69mpg with potential range of 640 miles.

Whilst the journey is not representative of what I’d get on a tank more like 450-550 miles, it’s good to know it’s possible to get high mpg figures. Sooo looking forward to a road trip to an A2 meet.

View attachment 64347
Click to expand...

Colour DIS I see ?
 
Today I bought RNS-D from A8 D2, connected instead of symphony II.

The pinout does not match a little, but so far I have not decided whether to keep it for myself ..
WhatsApp Image 2020-05-15 at 16.13.49.jpeg


Tell me which coding to write correctly?

I have a BOSE system.
It was 00205 Delivered 00215 - it seemed that it got worse :oops:

Thanks in advance..
w8AAAgPfo-A-960 (1).jpg
w8AAAgPfo-A-960.jpg
 
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