Today I.....

Drove 150-odd miles from Slough to home via Godalming - scored 69.3mpg mostly with cruise control set to an indicated 70mph, which is exactly what I was achieving on very similar journeys driving economically during the summer.

Conclusion: the @depronman refurbished EGR is working well and was a worthwhile job installing it - thanks Paul!
 
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Today I finished cleaning up the lower intake manifold for the FSI, flaps are moving more freely now.
IMG_7033.jpeg
IMG_7037.jpeg

Next is to finish cleaning the ports and the backs of the valves, cylinders 1 and 3 are done, 2 and 4 still to go.
Fiddly and messy but I figured I should probably do it while I’m in here.
 
Drive 150-odd miles from Slough to home via Godalming - scored 69.3mpg mostly with cruise control set to an indicated 70mph, which is exactly what I was achieving on very similar journeys driving economically during the summer.

Conclusion: the @depronman refurbished EGR is working well and was a worthwhile job installing it - thanks Paul!

You’re very welcome. Not the easiest part to remove and fit


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Today I fixed an issue after getting a set of tyres done at Kwik Fit: all wheel bolts over-torqued on both fronts, 4 out of 5 bolts over-torqued on both rears with 1 on each rear being not even finger tight 🤦🏻

All sorted now and I have some very smart refurbished lightweight 15's with 185/60/15 WinterConti TS870 all round.
 
Today I fixed an issue after getting a set of tyres done at Kwik Fit: all wheel bolts over-torqued on both fronts, 4 out of 5 bolts over-torqued on both rears with 1 on each rear being not even finger tight 🤦🏻

All sorted now and I have some very smart refurbished lightweight 15's with 185/60/15 WinterConti TS870 all round.
I've decided that next time I get new tyres I will print in big letters on an A4 sheet what the bolt torques are and what the inflation pressures are.

Twice I've has tyres wrongly inflated and almost disaster on the first bends.

When I had wheel alignment done recently I gave them a photo of the underside of an A2 and where to jack and not to jack.

A2 Safe Jacking Points.jpg
 
….finally traced my battery drain 😀 was driving me crazy but searched for some help on here, bought a cheap multimeter and found the 20A radio fuse was draining nearly 2A. I didn’t need to sit in the boot with the doors locked thank goodness. Just set multimeter to DC A, black lead in COM, red in 10A, disconnected negative lead, positive multimeter lead to the clamp, negative to the battery negative. Opened drivers door (which raised the draw to just over 2A) and pulled fuses until I saw a big drop. Having to scrap my CR-V soon so a bit fed up, but this was a small win and made my day!
 
….finally traced my battery drain 😀 was driving me crazy but searched for some help on here, bought a cheap multimeter and found the 20A radio fuse was draining nearly 2A. I didn’t need to sit in the boot with the doors locked thank goodness. Just set multimeter to DC A, black lead in COM, red in 10A, disconnected negative lead, positive multimeter lead to the clamp, negative to the battery negative. Opened drivers door (which raised the draw to just over 2A) and pulled fuses until I saw a big drop. Having to scrap my CR-V soon so a bit fed up, but this was a small win and made my day!
Is there something tee'd off the radio supply, such as a Bluetooth adapter, that's drawing 2 amps? That quite a lot of current, so needs finding. Surely not the radio, or is it after market?
Mac.
 
….finally traced my battery drain 😀 was driving me crazy but searched for some help on here, bought a cheap multimeter and found the 20A radio fuse was draining nearly 2A. I didn’t need to sit in the boot with the doors locked thank goodness. Just set multimeter to DC A, black lead in COM, red in 10A, disconnected negative lead, positive multimeter lead to the clamp, negative to the battery negative. Opened drivers door (which raised the draw to just over 2A) and pulled fuses until I saw a big drop. Having to scrap my CR-V soon so a bit fed up, but this was a small win and made my day!
And just as a reminder that it’s not just our A2’s that suffer from rusty suspension components, here’s my rear shock mounting point on my CR-V which is now scrap ☹️
IMG_0422.jpeg
 
Is there something tee'd off the radio supply, such as a Bluetooth adapter, that's drawing 2 amps? That quite a lot of current, so needs finding. Surely not the radio, or is it after market?
Mac.
The power knob is broken on the radio and I have been jamming pens in the hole to turn it on and off. 🫣 I guess it jammed partially on? Remember 2A is with the driver door open and the car definitely not put to sleep. More like 1A as the actual draw just from the radio.
 
The power knob is broken on the radio and I have been jamming pens in the hole to turn it on and off. 🫣 I guess it jammed partially on? Remember 2A is with the driver door open and the car definitely not put to sleep. More like 1A as the actual draw just from the radio.
You can swop the facia panel, complete with knob. Try the Market to see if anyone has a duff radio, with a functioning facia.
Never know ... until you do.
Mac.
 
Thanks Mac. Mr Clackers provided a brilliant replacement- I just need to pick up some radio keys and fit it!

Actual Audi keys seem to do the job better and when I got them they were very little more expensive than EBay ones. But if there’s a big difference now I’d just get eBay ones and wiggle them till it works!
I do hope that your problem is in the radio!

George
 
Actual Audi keys seem to do the job better and when I got them they were very little more expensive than EBay ones. But if there’s a big difference now I’d just get eBay ones and wiggle them till it works!
I do hope that your problem is in the radio!

George
Some of the non VAG keys are too thin and too soft.
This can lead to keys stuck in, and the radio not released, and you don't want that to happen.
Mac.
 
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