Tried to adjust Gear Linkage, now its much worse! Help...

Jason_e

Member
Hello all, this seems like quite a busy/helpful forum so I'm hoping you can help this newbie!

Bought a '51 (Jan 2002) A4 TDI 75 last week as a little commuter. Had a few issues, but it was cheap. One annoying issue was teh gear shift. It clearly needed adjustment as you had to aim a bit right when selecting 3rd, and going back into second after could be a a bit fun too.

Following the guide on here, I pinned both and adjusted. Then, I had pretty much no gears at all. WTH? So I adjusted it again, 5 or 6 times, using the method from youtube in variuous orders. Now, I have gears back, however:

Reverse is a pain, and sometimes when I shift back into first it stays in reverse.

3rd is gone pretty much. It feels like it isnt fully engaging, where as before you just couldnt quite find it. You get a horrible grind like you've missed the gear when you release the clutch. If I have high revs in 2nd, it will go into 3rd but for obvious reasons I'm just ignoring that gear altogether now.

Details on my shift tower, which no doubt will be asked :

Is your water catcher cup in? - Yes, and appears to line up.
Did you lock both the gearstick and the tower - Yes, however the Tower was a nightmare to lock. Required a lot of force and wiggling, and kept trying to "Ping" out. Also, whilst the up and down motion (so, side to side on the gearstick) locked solid, the rotational motion (So forward and back on the stick) had some movement.
Does the tower have play in it? - Yes, that bearing is DEFINATELY shot.
How did you adjust the bowden cables? - The cable for side to side on the gearstick was as per the video, it locked back, I pulled the slack out and then let it go. The other one, up and down movement of the gear stick, would only pull back about half way. Now, after several adjustments, the thing wont move at all. Its COMPLETELY SIEZED in its locked position.

My thoughts are, other than I need to rebuild (or replace) the shifter tower is:
- Either I overadjusted the troublesome side, meaning its at its max and got stuck, hence the gears on the top of the gate (Rev, 1st, and 3rd) being a particluar cause of pain.
- The bearing is so far gone that I'd removed it from its "just about working" phase to "Now you're screwed" and theres no way back.


Anyway, less than a week into A2 ownership and I'm about ready to throw in the towel! I dont have a bearing press to rebuild the tower, so would have to get someone else to do that, plus im now worried 3rd gear is going to be done in.


Any help on this much appreciated! A lot of the forum searches ive done have been very helpful so far... just a little confused as to where to go next.
 
Welcome to the forum Jason :) Sorry to hear you're in a situation of woes so soon, but that's a comprehensive write-up of the issue which should resonate well with other people who have resolved shift tower issues. Hopefully someone with sound advice should be along soon .
 
Well to be very blunt... You have either screwed up the cable adjustment process OR the selector tower is shot. Redo the adjustment process ensuring each step is correct before moving on. If something will not conform then start to examine that part. Replacing the complete tower is not too difficult.



Your gearbox does contain oil and not water?
 
Well to be very blunt... You have either screwed up the cable adjustment process OR the selector tower is shot. Redo the adjustment process ensuring each step is correct before moving on. If something will not conform then start to examine that part. Replacing the complete tower is not too difficult.



Your gearbox does contain oil and not water?
Gearbox oil change is the next port of call!

As I say above though, I can’t adjust one of the cable ends. It’s seized! I’m tempted to try and pop it off all together to investigate.

It does look like I’ve pulled it too far out maybe? Which would explain the issues

But yes, as I say the tower is in need of a bearing too.
 

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The cable ends are plastic on a threaded rod so doubt they have seized. Reset and start again as per my previous instructions. Start investigating a replacement tower assembly.

If you disconnect the cables from the tower can you manually select ALL gears by moving the tower into each gear? If not replace the tower first.


Hopefully not a more serious gearbox issue.
 
The cable ends are plastic on a threaded rod so doubt they have seized. Reset and start again as per my previous instructions. Start investigating a replacement tower assembly.

If you disconnect the cables from the tower can you manually select ALL gears by moving the tower into each gear? If not replace the tower first.


Hopefully not a more serious gearbox issue.

Its the plastic collar that you pull back to compress the spring. It was stiff before, only going about half way. Now, its inable to move at all. So I cant adjust that particular one. Could be that its over-adjusted, or that the plastic has broken and jammed. Not sure!

The gearbox goes in to gears fine on top of the box which is promising, but theres some play. I feel like I'm in for a penny, I may as well strip it down and see whats-what
 
Its the plastic collar that you pull back to compress the spring. It was stiff before, only going about half way. Now, its inable to move at all. So I cant adjust that particular one. Could be that its over-adjusted, or that the plastic has broken and jammed. Not sure!

The gearbox goes in to gears fine on top of the box which is promising, but theres some play. I feel like I'm in for a penny, I may as well strip it down and see whats-what

I have one concern on the cables based on the symptoms described, based on another recent thread here (that led to the Audi Tradition gear cables order thread). I'm wondering if one of the two cables - the one that has lost half or more of its moveable range - has started to disintegrate somewhere in the run, such that the frayed cable ends are resisting some of the movement range by catching on the Bowden outer?

Sorry - ignore the above.

If your cable ends are knackered and unable to be retracted properly, these are a cheap and easy replacement part online. They pop off the ball connectors at the one end, and (in the retracted position) remove from the cable ends.
 
I have one concern on the cables based on the symptoms described, based on another recent thread here (that led to the Audi Tradition gear cables order thread). I'm wondering if one of the two cables - the one that has lost half or more of its moveable range - has started to disintegrate somewhere in the run, such that the frayed cable ends are resisting some of the movement range by catching on the Bowden outer?

Sorry - ignore the above.

If your cable ends are knackered and unable to be retracted properly, these are a cheap and easy replacement part online. They pop off the ball connectors at the one end, and (in the retracted position) remove from the cable ends.
Thanks Robin!

Given that the retracted position isnt an option, I guess I'll just carefully cut the spring and plastic to remove it instead. I'll get an end ordered along with a bearing anyway!
 
Mega, ordered one now. So cheap it’s worth a punt
you can lock the cable ends by twisting the ring when they are pulled back. Is the ring twisted somehow so that it doesn’t go back or release properly? Worth replacing them anyway as they are cheap. But you shouldn’t have to cut them off.
 
In my old box when adjusting I found that, with gearbox and stick locked, pushing the cable away from the connector and then locking the connector gave a better result than pushing the cable into the connector. Hope that makes sense.
 
you can lock the cable ends by twisting the ring when they are pulled back. Is the ring twisted somehow so that it doesn’t go back or release properly? Worth replacing them anyway as they are cheap. But you shouldn’t have to cut them off.
Yeah the other cable does that no issue. This one used to get stuck half way, then ping back. Now it’s just stock all the way at the locked position tried various grips to twist and pull it back but no dice!
 
D-Day this morning! Drained the old oil, if you can still call it that…

ECB512FD-FC4F-42EC-B81B-12815F860903.jpeg


The old mech came out and was very nasty. Here’s it sat next to the new style tower.

2F34E16E-0AC7-4260-B7BB-A6155ED4EE8B.jpeg


All in, new sprung Bowden end (nightmare to get the old one off!) sealed up and filled with genuine oil.

Night and day. Thing shifts like an actual car should!

Still crunches 3rd cold. Hardly surprising. Who knows how long it was in that state for!
 
I did indeed! New shifter wasn’t compatible with my old one anyway. But seemed like a good idea given it contains a bearing
Cool. It’s a job that lies ahead of me. When replacing the tower do you just leave it in neutral by the way? Thanks.
 
Cool. It’s a job that lies ahead of me. When replacing the tower do you just leave it in neutral by the way? Thanks.
I did! In the process of wiggling it and breaking the sealant it clicked out but I just placed the weight assy back on and clicked it back into Neutral.
 
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