Weird noise then shaking

I ended up joining Start rescue with 2 car policy. As a beginner with breakdown cover, does home assist cover you when car doesn't start at home where you can request the car to be taken from home to garage?

Is there a tool that would avoid the 20-50 ton press. Also regarding brand, i'm looking for a decent brand but not too expensive due to this car being a temp runabout until i get the monsterbus fixed (Alhambra)

TIA

Yes I bought a hydraulic gizmo that attaches to the hub via the wheel bolts and as a plunger in the centre to push the cv joint out of the bearing. It develops around 10 ton according to the paperwork that came with it. Itโ€™s not failed any A2 Iโ€™ve tried it on so far
I get some pressure built up and if it is still not moving hammer the side of the cv joint using an sds drill in hammer only mode with a chisel bit with the end ground off. Ie a punch
Never fails to move the Audi anti fretting paste

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great advice @depronman
My lack of experience removing drive shafts has ruined a perfectly good spark plug socket and made some hefty dents in the hub doing this the wrong way in the past.

I guess a hub puller becomes a drive shaft press when you disconnect the drive shaft at the gearbox end?

Here is a best sellers list from Amazon, other retail outlets are available.
:)๐Ÿ‘
 
Great advice @depronman
My lack of experience removing drive shafts has ruined a perfectly good spark plug socket and made some hefty dents in the hub doing this the wrong way in the past.

I guess a hub puller becomes a drive shaft press when you disconnect the drive shaft at the gearbox end?

Here is a best sellers list from Amazon, other retail outlets are available.
:)

No2 in the list looks like the one I bought May well not be the same make but it was that style. I donโ€™t hold out much hope for the no1 style of pusher I fear it would strip the thread on the bolt or housing before the drive shaft gave up

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks @depronman I was not sure what the press looked like or if it was the correct item I had linked. :)

Hi @Mr Angry, Here are a couple of diagrams from the self study guide. You probably know what they look like, but for those who are reading who may not, they may be helpful?

front wheel drive.JPG

gearboxes.JPG

Image credit:
Audi A2 Technology
Design and Function
Self-Study Programme 240

:) ๐Ÿ‘
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi,
I have been using J&R products for many years.
The positive aspects of this company is their fantastic customer service when you ring for help.

Talking about drive shafts and universal joints their products are constructed to a standard that when brand new may have play in the joints. This could possibly introducing backlash and subsequently shock and vibration to the gearbox.

I have bought 20 or more products from them, not all UJ's just based on their value for-money cannot be matched elsewhere. These are not a premium items and may be constructed of lower-quality materials, which could reduce service life. Which is the case for most items on the market.

They pass the 'good enough' test.

:) ๐Ÿ‘
 
Hi,
I have been using J&R products for many years.
The positive aspects of this company is their fantastic customer service when you ring for help.

Talking about drive shafts and universal joints their products are constructed to a standard that when brand new may have play in the joints. This could possibly introducing backlash and subsequently shock and vibration to the gearbox.

I have bought 20 or more products from them, not all UJ's just based on their value for-money cannot be matched elsewhere. These are not a premium items and may be constructed of lower-quality materials, which could reduce service life. Which is the case for most items on the market.

They pass the 'good enough' test.

:) ๐Ÿ‘
I've had a genuine shaft fail after next to no time on my galaxy, pay your money take your chance seems quality these days is very hit and miss!
I tried there ball joint rubbers, they only last 6 months but luckily have the holy grail mecatech ones now!
Just fitted some SKF cv boots these look good time will tell!
The euros inner boots are only good for 18 months to 2 years I have found think they are GKN
 
Thanks guys, i will be getting car towed back to garage tomorrow once i make the call tonight as it is stranded at work. Will let you know what the outcome will be and then source the J&R parts needed for fixing. Hopefully it's not going to cost me too much.

I have bigger issues with the Alhambrar right now, which might have a seized engine due to low oil pressure. I did remove sump and clear the oil sump filter as it was clogged with some metal parts and other debris but it will no longer start. Really not sure what to do with it as i don't want to go down the road of a bottomless pit with a process of elimination of parts to fix it. Unfortunately VCDS does not show any errors regarding engine issues so i'm at a loss with this. I've even tried spraying brake cleaner directly passed the MAF sensor to see if it will start...no luck!

I know this is off topic but can anyone recommend on a specialist or what to do? failing this i might have to scrap it. Nice big car but it's gave me a headache ever since i bought it :(

TIA
 
Hi @Mr Angry
My thoughts going on the information you have given.
  • Pieces metal in the sump
  • Engine not starting
  • No fault codes
Being starved of oil from low oil pressure is problematic.
  • Friction
  • Heat
  • Worn parts
  • Brittle parts
๐Ÿ˜”
It could be any number of things or nothing at all.

Engines are robust and can take years of suboptimal opperating conditions.

Hope this is some use.

:) ๐Ÿ‘
 
Thanks guys, i will be getting car towed back to garage tomorrow once i make the call tonight as it is stranded at work. Will let you know what the outcome will be and then source the J&R parts needed for fixing. Hopefully it's not going to cost me too much.

I have bigger issues with the Alhambrar right now, which might have a seized engine due to low oil pressure. I did remove sump and clear the oil sump filter as it was clogged with some metal parts and other debris but it will no longer start. Really not sure what to do with it as i don't want to go down the road of a bottomless pit with a process of elimination of parts to fix it. Unfortunately VCDS does not show any errors regarding engine issues so i'm at a loss with this. I've even tried spraying brake cleaner directly passed the MAF sensor to see if it will start...no luck!

I know this is off topic but can anyone recommend on a specialist or what to do? failing this i might have to scrap it. Nice big car but it's gave me a headache ever since i bought it :(

TIA
Every time you find metal bits in your filter or sump the engine is basicaly gone. The main cause of the damage is running the engine with low oil which caused low oil pressure and oil couldn't reach vital components like lifters bearings etc which cannot run dry. Without oil they will overheat and basicaly start shaving little pieces from each other into the sump or oil filter. That engine will need some major overhaul which for the cost of the labour is not worth it. It'll be better and chepaer buy another engine and do direct swap. It'll be chepaer and you can be sure the engine is good. You won't be 100% sure after your old engine was repaired that they did check everything.
 
Yes I bought a hydraulic gizmo that attaches to the hub via the wheel bolts and as a plunger in the centre to push the cv joint out of the bearing. It develops around 10 ton according to the paperwork that came with it. Itโ€™s not failed any A2 Iโ€™ve tried it on so far
I get some pressure built up and if it is still not moving hammer the side of the cv joint using an sds drill in hammer only mode with a chisel bit with the end ground off. Ie a punch
Never fails to move the Audi anti fretting paste

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I blew one of these up on the first attempt to use it. Had a small puddle of oil and no movement of the drive shaft.

Got the shaft off using a mechanical hub puller and two long breakers. One to hold it and one to turn the screw. After one use the puller was a mess so I had to buy a replacement. It is a tough job.
 
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