oil change advice for a inexperienced 18 year old!

Damian Bond

Damian Bond

A2OC Donor
Hi I’m thinking about changing my oil and and filters myself but as I’m only 18 I know very little. Would someone mind giving me a few pointers. My a2s a 2002 75 TDI with 147,400 miles. I know the the part number for the oil filter and where the oil filter is on the engine. Which end should the rubber seal go on the filter? what tool and what size do I need to take the old one off? Also I’m thinking about using Castro edge 5w-30 is this a wise choice? is the under tray difficult to remove? And where are the jacking points?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you
Damian
 

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OK the big o ring does not go on the filter but it sits in a groove in the filter cover. The small end of the filter is inserted into the filter housing. Rule of thumb whatever the seal runs in use some of that to lightly lubricate the seal before fitting. So a smear of engine oil in this case. Yes Castrol Edge 5W-30 is fine, plenty other fully synthetics out there but that is what Audi use(d) You will want a 6 point 36mm socket for the filter cover and remember to get a new drain plug complete with washer. Yes I know some are reusable but I replace them. Get the engine up to temperature before raising it up to let the oil drain easier. Remember to torque up items as you fit them to the manual specifications. It is also crucial that the end is not broken off your dipstick as there is a very high chance you will over fill the oil level.

You must take care and safety is a priority. For a first attempt I would recommend the use of ramps first as the car is still fully supported. The undertray is not too difficult but you will no doubt be met with corroded and incorrect fasteners, some may even need drilling out!!
The standard car jack in my opinion is only really suitable in an emergency and never ever work on the car without something else to support it if the jack were to fail. I have seen cars roll off their jacks, so block a couple of the other wheels forward and back just to be safe. Far better to use a trolley jack.

undertray mounts.png

This image shows the location of the fixings on the undertray. The 2 arrows next to the wheels show the 2 nuts on studs that need to be removed - if still there and the 3 red circled ones fit into the subframe.

You must catch and dispose of the HOT engine oil correctly with you local council site.....


Here is another thread for a bit more information.


Really glad that you are keep to learn and impressed that you are asking questions.?
 
audifan said:
OK the big o ring does not go on the filter but it sits in a groove in the filter cover. The small end of the filter is inserted into the filter housing. Rule of thumb whatever the seal runs in use some of that to lightly lubricate the seal before fitting. So a smear of engine oil in this case. Yes Castrol Edge 5W-30 is fine, plenty other fully synthetics out there but that is what Audi use(d) You will want a 6 point 36mm socket for the filter cover and remember to get a new drain plug complete with washer. Yes I know some are reusable but I replace them. Get the engine up to temperature before raising it up to let the oil drain easier. Remember to torque up items as you fit them to the manual specifications. It is also crucial that the end is not broken off your dipstick as there is a very high chance you will over fill the oil level.

You must take care and safety is a priority. For a first attempt I would recommend the use of ramps first as the car is still fully supported. The undertray is not too difficult but you will no doubt be met with corroded and incorrect fasteners, some may even need drilling out!!
The standard car jack in my opinion is only really suitable in an emergency and never ever work on the car without something else to support it if the jack were to fail. I have seen cars roll off their jacks, so block a couple of the other wheels forward and back just to be safe. Far better to use a trolley jack.

View attachment 89329
This image shows the location of the fixings on the undertray. The 2 arrows next to the wheels show the 2 nuts on studs that need to be removed - if still there and the 3 red circled ones fit into the subframe.

You must catch and dispose of the HOT engine oil correctly with you local council site.....


Here is another thread for a bit more information.


Really glad that you are keep to learn and impressed that you are asking questions.?
Click to expand...
Thank you really appreciate it! ?
 
Damian, watch some YouTube videos as that will show you what’s what in the quickest and most easily digested format.

Then do a Google search on this website for further tips.
 
dj_efk said:
Damian, watch some YouTube videos as that will show you what’s what in the quickest and most easily digested format.

Then do a Google search on this website for further tips.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I’ve watched a few videos like Scotty Kilmer which really helps. Also I looked up how to reset the service message on the DIS.
 
Hi Damian. While you have the under tray off you may as well change the air filter too. Its quite easy but only accessible with the under tray removed. Best of luck. N
 
I'll give you a heads up for when you change the fuel filter. The drain plug for the fuel filter compartment is notoriously easy to break by over-tightening it. You really don't want to make that mistake. Don't ask me how I know
 
Hi Damian

You sound like the kind of chap who is eager to learn. If you like you can bring your car round to my place and I will help/show you how to do an oil change. You bring the parts, I have the tools. My only charge will be for you to take away your own, and some of my, old oil. I'm only in Upleadon near Newent.

Trevor
 
TAABVW said:
Hi Damian

You sound like the kind of chap who is eager to learn. If you like you can bring your car round to my place and I will help/show you how to do an oil change. You bring the parts, I have the tools. My only charge will be for you to take away your own, and some of my, old oil. I'm only in Upleadon near Newent.

Trevor
Click to expand...
Hi Damian,

If I were you, I would take up Trevor’s very kind offer.

The most important thing is to ensure that you’re safe at all times. To remove the undertray, you have to crawl a fair way under the vehicle. If the car falls on you, the consequences are beyond awful. Being guided by somebody with greater experience is invaluable.

Until you’re familiar with your own vehicle, you also don’t know what horrors you might find (bodges by previous owners/garages, corroded fastenings, etc), so having somebody on hand with a good array of tools could also prove invaluable.

I must also echo what others have said above. It’s great that you’re enthusiastic to learn, but even better that you’re doing your homework first rather than just diving in. Welcome to A2 ownership and the A2OC community.

Cheers,

Tom
 
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audifan said:
You must take care and safety is a priority. For a first attempt I would recommend the use of ramps first as the car is still fully supported. The undertray is not too difficult but you will no doubt be met with corroded and incorrect fasteners, some may even need drilling out!!
The standard car jack in my opinion is only really suitable in an emergency and never ever work on the car without something else to support it if the jack were to fail. I have seen cars roll off their jacks, so block a couple of the other wheels forward and back just to be safe. Far better to use a trolley jack.
Click to expand...
A trolley jack? A trolley jack should only be used at the jacking points, not on either axle. But never get under a car only supported by a trolley jack! You need axle stands which can only be used at the jacking points. That rules out using a trolley jack. The standard jack is fine with the rear wheel on the opposite side securely chocked.

RAB
 
Damian Bond said:
Thanks, I’ve watched a few videos like Scotty Kilmer which really helps. Also I looked up how to reset the service message on the DIS.
Click to expand...
I didn’t mean Scotty Kilmer - that man seems to me to have some kind of mental health issue! - I meant specific videos focusing on A2 servicing (made someone who doesn’t feel the need to shout)
 
TAABVW said:
Hi Damian

You sound like the kind of chap who is eager to learn. If you like you can bring your car round to my place and I will help/show you how to do an oil change. You bring the parts, I have the tools. My only charge will be for you to take away your own, and some of my, old oil. I'm only in Upleadon near Newent.

Trevor
Click to expand...
Wow thank you so much. Are you sure that’s ok?
 
Get yourself an engine oil extraction pump off eBay and feed the suction hose down the dipstick pipe. Saves the faff of jacking up the car and securing it on axles stands if you don’t have the tool or space. Due to the battery being in the boot you will need to use the 12v supply from the battery cable to starter terminal and earth it to the engine hoist bracket on the top of the engine.

Make sure the oil is warm before pumping it out. Lots of main dealer service departments use this technique now.
 
As GTSpec says an extraction pump.....£9.99 At Lidl if they have any left.
2 friends bought the last 2 in Southampton Lidl 4 weeks ago. They are good.
It’s the air filter that might need changing or cleaning.
Take up the free offer though. Your local council tip has an area to pour old oil into a tank.
And it’s recycled. Especially as you here of irresponsible people pouring it down drains or putting it in the bin!
 
Hi Damian,

Just noticed you're in Stroud as am I (1.4SE) and my pal Jezza, who has just acquired a 1.6 FSI from a member here in Gloucestershire. Good to have a cluster of A2s in the vicinity!

Steve (Brimscombe)
 
The suck method is great for avoiding faff of engine tray removal but also avoids potential of sump plug threads stripping and allows oil in filter housing to be sucked out too!

As said get the oil hot!

I have a manual pump one was approx £40.

Also fit an additional earth lead asap!

Air filter and fuel filter really benefit from having vehicle on a lift but pollen/cabin is a great idea to change!

Remember ask away we are all here to learn and enjoy our A2's!
 
audifan said:
You must take care and safety is a priority.
The standard car jack in my opinion is only really suitable in an emergency and never ever work on the car without something else to support it if the jack were to fail. I have seen cars roll off their jacks, so block a couple of the other wheels forward and back just to be safe. Far better to use a trolley jack.
Click to expand...
RAB said:
A trolley jack? A trolley jack should only be used at the jacking points, not on either axle. But never get under a car only supported by a trolley jack! You need axle stands which can only be used at the jacking points. That rules out using a trolley jack. The standard jack is fine with the rear wheel on the opposite side securely chocked.

RAB
Click to expand...

To be fair here, I think @RAB has a point, certainly when it comes to the 1.2TDI (he has owned one). IIRC its suspension is a special lightweight version, not the same components as the other models, and it won't take the weight on the wishbone bushes or rear axle. If not on a four-post lift, axle stands have to go under the lifting point locations and thus require the car to be raised with the OEM jack through the holes in the sills. He, and others, may also apply these precautions to the other models since the suspension locations are not where Audi themselves, having 4-post lifts, would have jacked it up. Precautions can't hurt.

Different people have different opinions about the OEM jack. Graham @audifan and other people I know will only use it in an emergency, and with justification: there have been incidents where it has slipped. However, I'll happily use it for changing a set of wheels, others to raise the car prior to supporting it for working under. The common message on which everyone agrees however is safety. Absolutely chock the opposite wheel when using any jack. Never go under the car without it being supported on axle stands etc. Again, any further precautions of your choosing cannot hurt.

There is a photo which demonstrates all the jacking points. The yellow arrows are the holes where the lugs of a four-post lift would go, removing the rubber bungs. These are in the same structural components that are accessed from the sills with the OEM jack. These locations are OK to use for jacking or axle stands with sufficiently thick wood across the bungs. The blue arrows are other usable locations with a cup in the head of a trolley jack, or where axle stands could be located. Don't jack it or use axle stands under the plastic sills or anywhere in the red areas (note, the jacking point/bung bottom left in the picture shouldn't be in red).

A2 jacking points.jpg
 
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TAABVW said:
Yeh. Give me a call. I pm'd you my number. I have a car lift so you can get a good look at it so you know what you are doing next time with regards to jacking points, undertray screw etc.

Trevor
Click to expand...
Fantastic will do tomorrow evening if that’s ok?
 
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