Information Audi A2 3L - Bought as non-runner...

Changed the accumulator, no difference.

Went through basic settings and it stops at 28.

It's still not trying to do anything re clutch or solenoids.

One thing I noticed is that the PO had been in the ECU cupboard...:(

So I thought I'd check the ECU coding. Is it supposed to be 00000?

Any chance of a chat this evening re diagnostics please RAB? 07989 333437.

MG
 
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RAB said:
There's no such thing as RFTM 28! 28 is the number of steps in the basic setting procedure:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_(085)

Are the lines correctly installed? The centre one on the hydraulic station goes to the clutch actuator. The line with blue ends goes between the bottom connector on the gear actuator and the same end on the plate as the screw that secures the plate to the hydraulic unit.

RAB
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Ok here's a screenshot of the error. That's how it finishes and nothing changes from there.

20171026_223253_zps6lgekouo.jpg


Here's a shot of the hydraulic pipes going into the solenoid pack. The other ends haven't been touched from what I can see but I'm preparing myself for changing the whole set as I don't believe that pressure is getting to the solenoid pack or clutch actuator.

20171026_224158_zpser0i6xuv.jpg


MG
 
After you have re-tightened the nut, have you cleared the faults and plugged the hydraulic station back in, because if you have, the voltage shouldn't be 1.83.

Is the cover on the bell housing in place?

RAB
 
RAB said:
After you have re-tightened the nut, have you cleared the faults and plugged the hydraulic station back in, because if you have, the voltage shouldn't be 1.83.

Is the cover on the bell housing in place?

RAB
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Yes faults cleared, yes it's plugged back in, yes the rubber bung is in the bellhousing (not sure why that's important unless you mean a different part?) and yes I agree, it shouldn't be reading 1.83v,.it should be over 4v. It's not getting any oil pressure so that's not surprising.

20171026_225710_zpsec7nzb7g.jpg


MG
 
If the cover was missing, that might mean that water has got into the clutch housing and the clutch has seized. That happened to me.

RAB
 
RAB said:
If the cover was missing, that might mean that water has got into the clutch housing and the clutch has seized. That happened to me.

RAB
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Ah ok. That makes sense. I believe that Andy Fisher had Audi change the clutch when this all started so I hope that everything in there is ok.

MG
 
Have you checked the connection to the transmission controller?

RAB
 
RAB said:
Have you checked the connection to the transmission controller?

RAB
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Not yet, I presume that you mean just for possible corrosion / damaged terminals / anything else obvious?

Obviously there is a connection as I'm able to talk to it with VCDS.

Is there anything in particular that you think I should be look for/at?

MG
 
Audi A2 3L said:
Obviously there is a connection as I'm able to talk to it with VCDS.
Click to expand...

In what way? If nothing happens during a basic setting (as your screen suggests) I would be suspicious of the controller. You could try disconnecting it to see if it triggers a fault code. VCDS has the ability to monitor the different valves/sensor values.

Why was the ECU replaced?

RAB
 
RAB said:
In what way? If nothing happens during a basic setting (as your screen suggests) I would be suspicious of the controller. You could try disconnecting it to see if it triggers a fault code. VCDS has the ability to monitor the different valves/sensor values.

Why was the ECU replaced?

RAB
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If I can interrogate the ECU through measuring blocks, clear fault codes etc then there is a connection and I'm talking to the gearbox ECU with VCDS. Faults are showing whenever I unplug components and then I'm able to clear them. I'll have a look for condition and to see that everything looks good.

I've just checked through the history again and I got it wrong, it wasn't an ECU that was changed, it was the solenoid block. Part number 085142409 in Nov 2012. Almost £1200 on it's own!

MG
 
Moving on...

I had a look at the ECU cupboard. All looks as it should, nothing is out of place. It's dry etc.

I removed the pump housing this afternoon complete with hydraulic lines and clutch actuator.

On the bench, I stripped the hydraulic lines off, blew through them, pulled off the reservoir, checked that the valves weren't stuck, removed and cleaned them and blew through the valve block with compressed air. I removed the pressure sensor, cleaned and blew through from there etc and checked that the clutch solenoid activated when a feed was put to it.

I did a lot of cleaning and checking but couldn't find anything wrong at all. The clutch actuator moves freely and sprays oil out.

I re-assembled it, refitted it to the car, filled it up with new oil (the old oil was fairly murky) and tried again with basic settings.

The clutch actuator still doesn't do anything and it still fails to get through basic settings, failing as before at 12.

After that, I chose to put a feed to the clutch actuator solenoid while the system was pressurised and the clutch actuator pulled in the clutch easily and stayed put. So that works. I had managed to move the clutch lever when removing and refitting the clutch actuator.

I went through trying basic settings again... no change.

Then I looked at the G239 and G240 sensors on the solenoid block. Apparently they suffer due to heat from the exhaust so I swapped over the upper sensor (G239 I think) with the one from the Lupo 3L.

The A2 still does ****** all and the Lupo 3L still drives fine.

Ho-hum...

MG
 
Do the gearbox ECUs ever go wrong? I'm still trying to work out why the ECU isn't energising the clutch actuator solenoid.

MG
 
Audi A2 3L said:
Do the gearbox ECUs ever go wrong? I'm still trying to work out why the ECU isn't energising the clutch actuator solenoid.
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Rarely but that's what's looking to be the problem. On the A2, there should be a heatshield on the gear actuator - it's missing, which doesn't help.

RAB
'
 
RAB said:
Rarely but that's what's looking to be the problem. On the A2, there should be a heatshield on the gear actuator - it's missing, which doesn't help.

RAB
'
Click to expand...

I have the heat sheild for both the inner cv joint and actuator but haven't refitted them yet due to the ongoing issues.

I'll try re-coding the ECU in a bit.

I've had a look on the net and they're aren't any ECUs around unfortunately.

Part no. 6N0927735D

MG
 
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You should be able to take the PCB out of the case. It's quite possible that it's repairable.

RAB
 
I have some spare 145/80R14 used tyres all better than road legal if wanted. Mine's getting close to 1/4 million miles since bought in 2002.
 
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