Information Audi A2 3L - Bought as non-runner...

You could try ecu testing . Com they are very reasonable in my opinion & can test your unit with no charge if not faulty.
They offer a lifetime warranty on most repairs & turnround time of 5 daysfrom when they receive item.
Ps no connection with the above but a very satisfied customer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
kp 115 said:
You could try ecu testing . Com they are very reasonable in my opinion & can test your unit with no charge if not faulty.
They offer a lifetime warranty on most repairs & turnround time of 5 daysfrom when they receive item.
Ps no connection with the above but a very satisfied customer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll look them up.

MG
 
Update:

I swapped the ECU from the A2 into the Lupo hoping that despite the different suffix (the Lupo is an E and the A2 is a D) that it might do something... it didn't. It locked the gear lever in position and refused to do anything.

I took a video last night of the clutch travel sensor voltage live while I push and pulled the clutch arm to show how it was changing. It's here on FB. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1726993020922324/

It shows that the voltage stays the same whether the plug to the pump unit is attached or not and that the voltage changes from 1.51 - 2.01v. If I pull the clutch arm away from the clutch actuator (pulling the cable out) then the voltage drops to 1.51v. If I push the clutch arm (pushing the cable back in) it goes up to 2.01v. The cable is quite slack at this point but that's as far as I could push.

Does anyone have an Audi A2 3L Gearbox ECU available that I could borrow or buy please? Part number 6N0927735D.

I'm considering that the solenoid may yet be faulty as they're not just designed to be an on/off valve but more a control valve and I can't test that.

MG
 
The solenoid on the pump unit is for control of the clutch actuator only. That's why there's no oil return line from the actuator. It can be removed from the unit and checked. The gear actuator is controlled at the actuator. Even if the solenoid (spool valve) is faulty, I would have thought that you would have heard the gear actuator during a basic setting. My Lupo sailed through a basic setting even with a faulty clutch (clutch now being replaced) and there were no fault codes!

I wouldn't attempt to use a Lupo controller on an A2, unless you know the pin configurations. Don't be fooled by the similar part numbers.

RAB
 
RAB said:
The solenoid on the pump unit is for control of the clutch actuator only. That's why there's no oil return line from the actuator. It can be removed from the unit and checked. The gear actuator is controlled at the actuator. Even if the solenoid (spool valve) is faulty, I would have thought that you would have heard the gear actuator during a basic setting. My Lupo sailed through a basic setting even with a faulty clutch (clutch now being replaced) and there were no fault codes!

I wouldn't attempt to use a Lupo controller on an A2, unless you know the pin configurations. Don't be fooled by the similar part numbers.

RAB
Click to expand...

Agreed, I can do without killing a good Lupo 3L ECU ;)

Also agreed, I should be able to hear the gear actuator trying to change the gears... but there is no movement there at all, not even a glimmer... I've got under the car and watched it while it's going through basic settings (I've done it that many times on this car now).

I hope to have a spare controller setup shortly from a fellow Lupo 3L owner who converted his to manual. Then I can swap over the complete pump unit... or the complete controller etc and see if anything changes.

MG
 
Just ordered a standard flat bonnet grill.

I can't get to liking the slatted one atm so it's coming off. The whole thing about the 3L is streamlining and aerodynamics. The flat grill matches that profile perfectly even if it's the earlier style for the A2. It's also correct for the car.

I haven't decided if I'm selling it yet or not but they seem to fetch a bit on fleabay.

MG
 
So I have a packaged of parts that have just arrived at home which includes the complete hydraulic control system from a Lupo 3L. Thank you Stu!!

I doubt that I'll have time now until Sunday to try swapping parts over but we'll see...

MG
 
Update...

I decided that I should get on this evening and see what I can achieve...

First I swapped over the pump unit. - no change.
Second I swapped over the clutch actuator and adjusted it - no change.
Third was the G240 sensor. I have previously swapped the G239 sensor with one on my Lupo - no change
Lastly I swapped over the solenoid block (gangsteller) and guess what... - no change.
So that's everything hydraulic.
Time to send the ECU away for testing...

MG
 
Looking as it should :cool:

My%203L_zpsrhaurywt.jpg


Now just to sell off the old one to get some money back in to help fix the car!

MG
 
A MASSIVE thank you to 'Ecoangel' for letting me plug my ECU into his car when we met up. That proved that my ECU was faulty.

A replacement ECU arrived this morning and as soon as I fitted it this afternoon, the system came back to life.

It turned out that the solenoid block also needed changing as it wouldn't pass basic settings but once that was swapped, the system worked and I've just driven it for the first time!

Now for an MOT!

MG
 
Audi A2 3L said:
Rear tyres swapped yesterday along with reversing light bulbs replaced with CREE LED (I reverse up a long drive that isn't lit!) so we're all ready for an MOT tomorrow :cool:

MG
Click to expand...

Do you have a link for the bulbs? Was it plug and play? I need a bit more light for my backing up manoeuvres.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Now with an MOT :cool: :D

First trip out... not bad ;)

20171121_090538_zpsv2u4tpk7.jpg


Next job is to sort out the oil sensor issue. The warning has gone away once for 5 minutes (while running) and then returned.

Also... I have a harsh vibration that comes through from the engine/gearbox unit when the clutch initially starts to move the car. It's almost like the gearbox mounting bolts are hanging out and the gearbox is sitting against the chassis... but they're not. Has anyone experienced this?

Oh... time for a full service and timing belt (inc water pump) along with all fluids/filters to be changed.

MG
 
Oil sensor is on the front of the sump. Change when you change the engine oil.

Check the engine and gearbox mounts and the bolts that secure the former to the block. The latter have to be replaced with new when the engine mount is removed to change the cambelt etc.

RAB
 
RAB said:
Oil sensor is on the front of the sump. Change when you change the engine oil.

Check the engine and gearbox mounts and the bolts that secure the former to the block. The latter have to be replaced with new when the engine mount is removed to change the cambelt etc.

RAB
Click to expand...

Thanks Rab.

I'll pull the oil sensor out when I change the oil, take it apart and inspect the solder connections. Maybe it will be an easy fix?

Re engine mounts, I checked the bolts on the engine side last night and they are all there and tight and I check the gearbox bolts from above and they are tight.

I think that I will have to remove some parts to properly investigate this but that can wait until Sunday now.

I have been researching the fuel tank size and found a 42 litre fuel tank for just £31 so I will fit that soon. I realise that I must change the exhaust pipe also and will probably use a section from the later A2 that came with this tank and add it to my existing exhaust. Then I need to work out how to change the instrument cluster settings to accept the larger driving range.

I think that the shock absorbers are in need of changing so I'm looking for replacements. Maybe Koni?

MG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top