BiggDogg
A2OC Donor
I converted my car (with the ATL engine) to 6-speed this year. I didn't change the starter. I did replace the DMF. None of the information sources I used when I did the conversion said to change the starter motor, but ever since, the starter has sounded a bit ropey, like an old Fiat 500 or 126 if you recall them when they were a common sight and sound, and there has been a lot of shaking transmitted to the body during cranking.
Recently, cold starting has become difficult, requiring up to 3s of normal-speed cranking (400rpm) before the engine would fire and run or sometimes die and need another go. Warm or hot cranking is better, but not near-instant like it used to be. Cranking has been normal speed, but rather lumpy. All this time, once the engine is running, all is normal, plenty of power and smooth delivery. However last week the engine misfired a couple of times at 2300-2500rpm on full accelerator whilst fully warmed up. I scanned with VCDS but no faults. The next morning, starting required several goes and it put the check engine lamp on with the glow plug lamp flashing thereafter too. The ABS and ASR warning lamps also lit up. Scanning with VCDS I saw a
Fault 16705 engine speed sensor G28 Implausible signal.
The ABS controller gave 01314 engine control module 013 check DTC memory intermittent and 00668 supply voltage terminal 30 008 implausible signal-intermittent. And the other controller "BORDNETZ-SG." gave 01598 drive battery voltage 07-10 signal too low.
After replacing the crankshaft speed sensor which I managed to convince myself was a cause (OMG what a PITA that job is) the starting is exactly the same, though I've yet to have another misfire. The battery was replaced in the spring and it spins the engine over at the normal speed, the terminals are clean and tight. I wondered about the "usual suspect" earth connection between the lower starter bolt and body earth so I removed the cable to check-everything was bright and clean and I cut the heat shrink sleeving from both ends to check for broken strands-again it was all like new under that sleeving so I put it back on. The result: No difference.
I am wondering now if there is another connection in the +12V or ground side which could be responsible?
Anyone got an idea?
I'm a bit reluctant to drive the car at all just now because I can imagine frying one of the controllers if the power supply to them is going all over the place, especially with the big voltage spikes you get off stater motors.
As ever, many thanks in advance.
Matt
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Recently, cold starting has become difficult, requiring up to 3s of normal-speed cranking (400rpm) before the engine would fire and run or sometimes die and need another go. Warm or hot cranking is better, but not near-instant like it used to be. Cranking has been normal speed, but rather lumpy. All this time, once the engine is running, all is normal, plenty of power and smooth delivery. However last week the engine misfired a couple of times at 2300-2500rpm on full accelerator whilst fully warmed up. I scanned with VCDS but no faults. The next morning, starting required several goes and it put the check engine lamp on with the glow plug lamp flashing thereafter too. The ABS and ASR warning lamps also lit up. Scanning with VCDS I saw a
Fault 16705 engine speed sensor G28 Implausible signal.
The ABS controller gave 01314 engine control module 013 check DTC memory intermittent and 00668 supply voltage terminal 30 008 implausible signal-intermittent. And the other controller "BORDNETZ-SG." gave 01598 drive battery voltage 07-10 signal too low.
After replacing the crankshaft speed sensor which I managed to convince myself was a cause (OMG what a PITA that job is) the starting is exactly the same, though I've yet to have another misfire. The battery was replaced in the spring and it spins the engine over at the normal speed, the terminals are clean and tight. I wondered about the "usual suspect" earth connection between the lower starter bolt and body earth so I removed the cable to check-everything was bright and clean and I cut the heat shrink sleeving from both ends to check for broken strands-again it was all like new under that sleeving so I put it back on. The result: No difference.
I am wondering now if there is another connection in the +12V or ground side which could be responsible?
Anyone got an idea?
I'm a bit reluctant to drive the car at all just now because I can imagine frying one of the controllers if the power supply to them is going all over the place, especially with the big voltage spikes you get off stater motors.
As ever, many thanks in advance.
Matt
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk