DJ's adventures in A2 land
- Thread starter dj_efk
- Start date
simufly
A2OC Donor
You need to drill three corresponding holes in the sub frame for the anchor nuts. Its a PITA as the subframe is made of VERY tough steel. I gave up having knackered two expensive drill bits with hardly a scratch on the subframe.
PlasticMac
Member
I'd think twice about drilling holes in a hardened steel chassis part myself.
Mac.
2work
Well Known Member
Evening Graham,
Hope all is well. Unfortunately any A2 that left the factory without the central spoiler will not have the necessary holes pre-drilled.
Kind regards,
Tom
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Well today I drove the 150-odd miles from my house in east Devon to Rhossili on the Gower peninsula at a steady 68 mph indicated (which CDIS says is 65mph) on cruise control.
Between the winglets and the fresh air filter, there’s definitely a tiny increase in fuel economy which I don’t think can be attributed to a following wind the whole way! 72-73mpg at this speed on the flat is now the norm. Wasn’t expecting that!
Between the winglets and the fresh air filter, there’s definitely a tiny increase in fuel economy which I don’t think can be attributed to a following wind the whole way! 72-73mpg at this speed on the flat is now the norm. Wasn’t expecting that!
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gills
A2OC Donor
That's a great improvement from where you started out - well done!
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Well today was the 2023 day of reckoning for Audrey, courtesy of Axminster MOT Centre:
I’ve done 11k miles since last year.
I was surprised that the tester removed the bonnet as I was under the impression they were not allowed to remove any part of the car, but there were a number of checks for various fluid leaks he conducted whilst in there so I guess I shouldn’t complain.
I was pretty confident that all was well but nonetheless it’s been over a decade since I was present at a test and I’d forgotten what a nail-biting experience it is, especially when the tester is a man of few words or readable facial expressions!
The only advisory noted was a very slight leak from one of the driveshafts.
Since I had all of the braking system - other than the master cylinder - renewed this year, that finally took care of the slight corrosion on the hard lines advisory that have been a feature of the last couple of certificates, I was relieved but unsurprised. Overall the tester was mightily impressed with the condition of the car and complemented it.
Here’s to another year of happy motoring.
I’ve done 11k miles since last year.
I was surprised that the tester removed the bonnet as I was under the impression they were not allowed to remove any part of the car, but there were a number of checks for various fluid leaks he conducted whilst in there so I guess I shouldn’t complain.
I was pretty confident that all was well but nonetheless it’s been over a decade since I was present at a test and I’d forgotten what a nail-biting experience it is, especially when the tester is a man of few words or readable facial expressions!
The only advisory noted was a very slight leak from one of the driveshafts.
Since I had all of the braking system - other than the master cylinder - renewed this year, that finally took care of the slight corrosion on the hard lines advisory that have been a feature of the last couple of certificates, I was relieved but unsurprised. Overall the tester was mightily impressed with the condition of the car and complemented it.
Here’s to another year of happy motoring.
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dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Well the sun has finally returned! Thought I’d share a few interior pics I took for the agreed-value insurance form today - after spending several hours going right through the interior, with cockpit wipe, double hoover (2nd pass with a drill-mounted nylon brush), pressure washed mats, wet-vac etc.
The car “felt” lovely to sit in afterwards - amazing the difference it makes subjectively isn’t it?
The car “felt” lovely to sit in afterwards - amazing the difference it makes subjectively isn’t it?
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
A quick update on life with Audrey:
Since the above pics were taken I have gotten round to replacing the passenger front door card to eradicate that nick out of the door pull visible in the second picture - this came courtesy of a very kind donation to the cause by @2work many moons ago, along with a drivers rear card that is yet to go on to replace the slightly-less obviously damaged original. I found the process to be logical and fairly straightforward and I just took my time. Also to go on are the new drivers door window switch surround / fascia I bought new from Audi Tradition - this should return the look of the interior from the driver’s seat to near-showroom, currently this is the weakest link. I have re-fixed the missing piece of trim from the arm rest mount on the back of the central console too, as well as replaced a couple of failing / flickering LEDs in the interior light units.
As an apology for using self tappers to refix my undertray at the front corners and in doing so puncturing my washer bottle(!!), my regular garage offered to fit a replacement for free. I therefore took the opportunity whilst ordering from AT to plump for a new bigger brother version meant for headlamp wash-equipped cars - this has just been installed as a nice little upgrade as I seem to be topping up the washer fluid a little too often for my liking as standard.
Finally, whilst there I ask them to swap in @depronman ’s lovely replacement EGR, so that should give a useful extra mid-range kick and maybe even boost fuel economy further at a steady speed - which would be useful now the tank average has just dropped to below 60mpg as is usual for the season.
Next jobs in addition to the window switch surround and that rear door card are to replace the non-functioning passenger headlamp levelling motor and also rectify the failed additional high tone horn that was added at purchase - there’s also both a little clunk and a faint rattle from the suspension that needs some diagnosis in the near future - but otherwise Audrey continues to do everything any plush modern car can do and more whilst being supremely reliable and cheap to run.
Since the above pics were taken I have gotten round to replacing the passenger front door card to eradicate that nick out of the door pull visible in the second picture - this came courtesy of a very kind donation to the cause by @2work many moons ago, along with a drivers rear card that is yet to go on to replace the slightly-less obviously damaged original. I found the process to be logical and fairly straightforward and I just took my time. Also to go on are the new drivers door window switch surround / fascia I bought new from Audi Tradition - this should return the look of the interior from the driver’s seat to near-showroom, currently this is the weakest link. I have re-fixed the missing piece of trim from the arm rest mount on the back of the central console too, as well as replaced a couple of failing / flickering LEDs in the interior light units.
As an apology for using self tappers to refix my undertray at the front corners and in doing so puncturing my washer bottle(!!), my regular garage offered to fit a replacement for free. I therefore took the opportunity whilst ordering from AT to plump for a new bigger brother version meant for headlamp wash-equipped cars - this has just been installed as a nice little upgrade as I seem to be topping up the washer fluid a little too often for my liking as standard.
Finally, whilst there I ask them to swap in @depronman ’s lovely replacement EGR, so that should give a useful extra mid-range kick and maybe even boost fuel economy further at a steady speed - which would be useful now the tank average has just dropped to below 60mpg as is usual for the season.
Next jobs in addition to the window switch surround and that rear door card are to replace the non-functioning passenger headlamp levelling motor and also rectify the failed additional high tone horn that was added at purchase - there’s also both a little clunk and a faint rattle from the suspension that needs some diagnosis in the near future - but otherwise Audrey continues to do everything any plush modern car can do and more whilst being supremely reliable and cheap to run.
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2work
Well Known Member
Morning David,
Very happy to help you out with such a special A2, looks fantastic by the way and glad some spare parts were able to uplift you interior a little.
Kind regards,
Tom
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Thought I’d have a go at brightening up Audrey’s interior by crossing a couple of jobs off the list: inoperative heated rear window and mirror circuit (despite the light on the climate unit working as it should), stuck driver’s cup holder and broken control tabs on the centre and passenger side vent.
Got it all apart thanks to some googling of “how to” around the forum - big thanks to (I assume) @Dave M for handily leaving a set of radio keys in the jack compartment under the driver’s footwell!
Found this connector to be broken - so I’ve clamped-by-cable tie in the vain hope that this cures the HRW problem!?
Managed to get it all back together with only minimal side vent clip loss - check the state of the old one:
Yep that’s knackered! Here’s the new one nicely installed:
Feels good to have fixed a couple of things!
Got it all apart thanks to some googling of “how to” around the forum - big thanks to (I assume) @Dave M for handily leaving a set of radio keys in the jack compartment under the driver’s footwell!
Found this connector to be broken - so I’ve clamped-by-cable tie in the vain hope that this cures the HRW problem!?
Managed to get it all back together with only minimal side vent clip loss - check the state of the old one:
Yep that’s knackered! Here’s the new one nicely installed:
Feels good to have fixed a couple of things!
Attachments
PlasticMac
Member
Does the HRW/mirror get warm now?
Mac.
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
I haven’t had a cold misty morning to try it yet - but I do hope so as otherwise it’s going to be a job for a garage.
As an aside, when I swapped the centre vent assembly I took the cupholders out and sprayed their mechanism with a little silicone grease in order to keep them free - annoyingly this had the opposite effect and they were then both stuck!! So my advice to anyone is don’t lubricate your cupholders, just clean them in hot soapy water to wash any drink residue away that is preventing them from working as they should.
As an aside, when I swapped the centre vent assembly I took the cupholders out and sprayed their mechanism with a little silicone grease in order to keep them free - annoyingly this had the opposite effect and they were then both stuck!! So my advice to anyone is don’t lubricate your cupholders, just clean them in hot soapy water to wash any drink residue away that is preventing them from working as they should.
PlasticMac
Member
Dry lubricant is the thing to use, as grease is sticky. Best clean it off. Silicone spray, (not silicone oil), is good, or dry ptfe, like WD-40 Dry PTFE Spray.
Rear screen will feel warm quite quickly to the touch.
Mac
devans
Member
The broken plastic plug can be replaced . It’s a slide on slide off connector. The block under the connector looks like it should be ok . Steve or Andy may have a breaker with a plug that’s not broken to swap over with.
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Thank you Tom - as ever that’s very kind. Will WhatsApp you!
dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Bah - Sorry to report that the "repair" of the wiring connector casing was not my issue - albeit this was entirely expected.
I'm half tempted to buy the spare climate unit in the marketplace and try swapping it - but I'm not sure I could achieve the same price if it made no difference and hence had to be sold straight on....
Anyway, I now need to pull it all apart and break out the multimeter to check current is actually being supplied to the unit, however I have zero experience with car electrics - Could anyone chime in with guidance as to how to proceed?
I'm half tempted to buy the spare climate unit in the marketplace and try swapping it - but I'm not sure I could achieve the same price if it made no difference and hence had to be sold straight on....
Anyway, I now need to pull it all apart and break out the multimeter to check current is actually being supplied to the unit, however I have zero experience with car electrics - Could anyone chime in with guidance as to how to proceed?
2work
Well Known Member
Hi David,
Is it the climate control panel fascia you’re looking to remove from the main unit/chassis.
Kind regards.
Tom