Drum Brake Binding

c.cwood

c.cwood

Member
Hi all, I'm struggling with the rear drum brakes on my TDI. My handbrake wasn't working, I've gone for a full rebuild of the brakes as everything was looking a bit worn out. New drums, shoes and fasteners on both sides (cylinders are free and not leaking so left these).

The brake on the off side was binding badly after this, I noticed that the handbrake cable wasn't releasing properly so I have replaced this too (just the rear section, not the front part). Still binding. Weirdly the drum is free until I put the screw in and it starts binding slightly, then when I put the wheel on it binds even worse. Bad enough that I get the smell of cooking brakes when driving. The near side is turning freely.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Cameron
 
Try swapping the drums left for right to see if the problem either goes away or swaps sides. Some drums are not built to as good tolerances as others. You have made sure that the face the drum sits on is perfectly clean, the wheel bearing is not badly worn and the shoes are correctly fitted behind the little lips on the slave cylinder pistons. The little PTFE mounts can push the shoes out of alignment is unevenly worn also.

You could also try the old drums provided they were not beat into submission getting them off........

A brake flush and bleed may also help. Remember to do the clutch at the same time.

1645467785416.jpeg


This is how the nearside brakes should look. Just a thought, you haven't swapped the left and right rear shoe by accident. The handbrake operating arm sits BEHIND the shoe when correctly assembled.
 
If not over adjusted (adjuster peg is the correct way around with nipple facing backplate?)
I would put a pair of cylinders on
 
@audifan I was getting the same problem with the original drum too after adjusting, pretty sure it's all together correctly but I'll double check with reference to your photo. Where are the PTFE mounts? I can't remember seeing anything like that. Brake fluid has been changed recently by the previous owner when he replaced brake hoses at the front. Wheel bearing feels fine and the shoes are positioned correctly behind the step on the cylinders.

@Howey The adjuster is definitely correct, the cylinders feel perfectly free have you experienced these still being a problem despite seeming fine?
 
c.cwood said:
@audifan I was getting the same problem with the original drum too after adjusting, pretty sure it's all together correctly but I'll double check with reference to your photo. Where are the PTFE mounts? I can't remember seeing anything like that. Brake fluid has been changed recently by the previous owner when he replaced brake hoses at the front. Wheel bearing feels fine and the shoes are positioned correctly behind the step on the cylinders.

@Howey The adjuster is definitely correct, the cylinders feel perfectly free have you experienced these still being a problem despite seeming fine?
Click to expand...
Yes and seeing that you have replaced everything else (wheel bearings would usually give troubles which would have been rectified before a brake binding result in my experience)
 
Howey said:
Yes and seeing that you have replaced everything else (wheel bearings would usually give troubles which would have been rectified before a brake binding result in my experience)
Click to expand...
I'll give it a try, getting a bit desperate now this is my daily driver.
 
In this picture you can see 5 out of the 6 "pads" / guide pieces. They are the little white discs on the back plate.

1645474856736.png
 
I remember a case from awhile back, where the new brake drum wasn't quite the same thickness as the drum that had been taken off. As a consequence, the bolts (particularly the wheel bolts) were making unwanted and quite noisy contact with the rear.

Sorry I can't find the original thread, but may be worth checking out your clearances.
 
Two points to look at:

1). Make sure that the adjuster is not too low. You might be able to push it up with a screwdriver, without dismantling.

2). The springs on the cables weaken over time, which has the same effect as a stretched cable. This means that you have to over-adjust the cables for the handbrake to work, which then won't release sufficiently. The only cure is to replace the cables.

You shouldn't have to remove the hub to install new brake shoes. If you do, replace the Nyloc nut.

RAB
 
Just building up my back axle / brakes. New PTFE pads 6/side. 0.80p each. Local VW specialist. New hand brake cables, brake assemblies Inc cylinders with drums and new hub nuts.
New brake pipe and Poly bushes.
If you zoom in you might be able to make out the part No's.
1.4 TDI 75 BHP on an 03 plate with OSS.
 

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Stan H said:
Just building up my back axle / brakes. New PTFE pads 6/side. 0.80p each. Local VW specialist. New hand brake cables, brake assemblies Inc cylinders with drums and new hub nuts.
New brake pipe and Poly bushes.
If you zoom in you might be able to make out the part No's.
1.4 TDI 75 BHP on an 03 plate with OSS.
Click to expand...
Where did you get the ATE cables from?
 
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